Anybody Ever Made the A-B injection timing box
 

Hey I just watched a guy time a MB Diesel with the A-B timing aligner plugged into the IP of a 617. IT looks like it'd work great with a 603 engine/pump as well according to my FSM. So, I think this is the tool to get.

However,
1. Where do you get that thing???

2. Looks very simple: a 12V B+ (Battery) supply, 2 Leds, and some connectors to the IP. Can't be too complicated. I think if one could find out what the connector at the IP is and the pinout, shouldn't be too hard to make one. Just wondering if anyone has done it?

Thanks!
Nick

IIRC that works with 1985 and up. I could be wrong, though.

http://www.samstagsales.com/images/mbabbox4.jpg

Here's the link to the part I'm talking about. It says it works on most of the MB engines including a 617. I actually saw it done on a 617. It works!!! Looks easy!

Also, I found today the MB part number
617 589 08 21 00

It's on this page if you search for this number

http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm#diesel

777Funk,

fo sure. A shcematic would be awesome as I;m certain I can have one of my EE buddies make one up for ALOT less than 400 beans.

I bet you could disassemble an optical mouse..................

I'd doubt it's as complicated as an optical mouse. The box is very small. I'm an EE myself. That doesn't mean I can make anything I want to. I couldn't build my own Pentium 4 computer. But this box looks very simple. I think it's gotta be a simple pair of contacts that hook up and turn on and off the two leds. If someone has an understanding (or owns that box) fill us in on the details. Gotta be someone here with some Electronic Smarts!

Actually, it's a pathetically simple device.

The nosepiece of the unit that threads into the IP consists of two spring loaded probes on the end. As the "V" in the IP comes around, it contacts the first probe and pushes it against the spring. This illuminates the "B" light via a ground to the engine.

As the "V" moves further around, it makes it to the slight depression between the two spring loaded probes and most units will then light both the "A" and "B" lights. My unit, for some reason, is not positioned properly and the two lights go out because the spring isn't strong enough to maintain contact when the "wedge" is in the notch between the probes.

When the "V" moves past the point of center, the "B" light shuts off and the "A" light remains illuminated because the "wedge" is contacting the trailing probe.

Electrically it's a no-brainer. The plastic pieces and the copper contacts would be the most difficult task in small quantites. If you made 1000 of them, you could build the whole thing for $20.00 in parts.

Thanks Brian
 

That's what I figured Brian. Glad you chimed in. You seem to be pretty Non Electrically Challenged;)
I figured you had the tool and would know how it works.

Anyways, I wish I could see the end that plugs in. That's what I figured is that the + goes to the battery and it had to be the shaft or cam in the IP that closes the switches to the LEDs.

Definitely no optical junk or infared in the 617 engines. That I was certain of:)

A cam that closes a switch, now that's 1970's technology:)

An optical reader would give a much more precise measurement :)

Oh brother! :rolleyes:

Next question, how precisely pop balanced are your injectors? At this point, they may throw more timing variance in that what the difference between the standard A-B box and an all-digital optical one.......

kinda funny how the new reamer for the new engine costs 40$ when the one for a 606 costs 160$

Recycled
 

because I am looking at building one, to replace my missing unit.


.

Have you tried just using a clock gauge / DTI instead?

(Probe falls into V shape etc - all a bit analogue and no fancy lights but hey...)

Older Customers Paying for new.
 

Don,

We're six years out from the Original Post...

And Montvale/Stuttgart have Exponentially increased the Ratio you observed
"Back Then".

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3 Years Down the Pike and You're an Orphan to be Ravaged!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!