Reboot not worth it?? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

94mgm · #1 07-19-2007, 12:59 PM

I called a mech today to get a price on rebooting the rear axles. Mech says it would not be an option since axles are 20yrs old. The axles are not leeking and im purely doing this as preventative maintenance. Is this guy looking to make me pay for parts?

300D 1984 155k miles

Thanks

cchkaiban · #2 07-19-2007, 01:32 PM

I thinks so...I was looking into having mine redone, and was quoted $250 a side. I just packed it with grease (Yes...I know that the joints were originally filled with oil) I am planning on looking into those split boots. I know they are crap, but I don't have any issues now, and figure they will help grease stay in, and prolong the inevitable for an extended period of time...

dieseldan44 · #3 07-19-2007, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94mgm

I called a mech today to get a price on rebooting the rear axles. Mech says it would not be an option since axles are 20yrs old. The axles are not leeking and im purely doing this as preventative maintenance. Is this guy looking to make me pay for parts?

300D 1984 155k miles

Thanks

I cant comment on the re boot practicality. But, keep in mind, new axles from CVJ (the best source, other than a new OE one) are $150 each, shipped to your door. Keep that in mind for your cost benefit analysis.

Do a search for 'CVJ axle' if you want to read more. A lot more.

dd

vstech · #4 07-19-2007, 02:06 PM

http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm
look for shops that have this type of reboot system in stock. boots are only 8 or so $ each and come with grease, but the tool is 300.00 to buy...

Brian Carlton · #5 07-19-2007, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm
look for shops that have this type of reboot system in stock. boots are only 8 or so $ each and come with grease, but the tool is 300.00 to buy...

You can rent the tool from Perkhouse for $25.00. It's in the tool rental program.

Palangi · #6 07-19-2007, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

You can rent the tool from Perkhouse for $25.00. It's in the tool rental program.

He has that tool up for sale. I think he might be asking around $200. You would also need the clamping tool. I priced the boots once, but I don't remember the cost. Seems like it was about $ 15 to $20, but I don't remember if that was per boot, or per pair.

I found a place in Ft. Worth who will reboot an axle for $90 (boots only, the metal has to be good). I have had 2 of them done. Job looks good, but to soon to tell how long they will last.

Brian Carlton · #7 07-19-2007, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palangi

He has that tool up for sale. I think he might be asking around $200. You would also need the clamping tool. I priced the boots once, but I don't remember the cost. Seems like it was about $ 15 to $20, but I don't remember if that was per boot, or per pair.

I found a place in Ft. Worth who will reboot an axle for $90 (boots only, the metal has to be good). I have had 2 of them done. Job looks good, but to soon to tell how long they will last.

Last we spoke, he didn't get the reserve on e-bay.........and decided to put it in the rental pool.........

Palangi · #8 07-19-2007, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Last we spoke, he didn't get the reserve on e-bay.........and decided to put it in the rental pool.........

Aha, You are probably right. It might not be for sale any longer. I checked on price for a new one, and it was about $300, plus you need the banding tool. Then I found I could get 'em redone for $90, so I gave up on buying the tool.

Jeremy5848 · #9 07-19-2007, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94mgm

...The axles are not leeking and im purely doing this as preventative maintenance...

Will you be able to tell when the boots start leaking? If yes (the car is regularly parked in the same place and you'll be able to see the oil stain on the garage floor) then don't bother doing anything until the rubber cracks open and the boots start to leak. [Caveat: you have a 5000 mile trip planned for later this year, then go ahead with the rebooting.]

If you won't be able to tell (car is parked in different places all the time, on gravel, etc) then it might be worth doing. Have you crawled under and looked at the boots? They may have cracks that look worse than they really are. The rubber is actually quite thick and takes years to crack through. [Caveat: the boots that the $300 stretch tool installs are thinner.]

Buying rebuilt axles from CVJ or another good rebuilder (lots of so-so ones out there) gets you more than just new factory boots but at 155K miles the moving parts in the axles (CV joints, etc.) are probably not badly worn.

Your mechanic is misinformed (at best). He probably doesn't have the correct tool for rebooting and would rather sell you a set of rebuilt axles. This I understand (I'd do the same thing) but it's clear that he is looking out for #1. You are #2 and must look out for yourself.

If the boots aren't leaking, I wouldn't bother.

Jeremy (CVJ axles installed in the '85 at 211860 miles, 1 year and 13000 miles ago)

94mgm · #10 07-19-2007, 05:42 PM

Ok, Im just gonna run the old axles until they leak, at that point ill get reman ones. Its only gonna cost me about 50$ more than rebooting.

Thanks alot, I love this forum!!

miljohnj5 · #11 07-19-2007, 06:14 PM

I've put off a paying for two new rear axles and reboot job for both sides for my 300D. Being a newbie, don't grill me because I don't know what the total cost should be. No guy wants to feel like he's a moron when it comes to things which are considered 'guy' things. I feel stupid for asking but I would be more stupid for paying without asking you guys first.
Total cost with labor at $75/hour is $1200! This of course sounds high given the cheap price of boots and I thought the axle's run about $200 per but I can't find the prices now. Anyway, they've been good in the past and even did the 30K inspection at 120K for me when I first got my car. Then again, it did cost me 300 bucks just for them to sign off my inspection log which isn't happening again.
Anyway, I'm here to learn...

Thank you

Mister Byrnzoil · #12 07-19-2007, 07:23 PM

it should be 6-8 'shop time' hrs for both sides

I'd get a good runnin axle rebooted before I'd replace it, even for $50 dollars more.

miljohnj5 · #13 07-19-2007, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister Byrnzoil

it should be 6-8 'shop time' hrs for both sides

I'd get a good runnin axle rebooted before I'd replace it, even for $50 dollars more.

Thank you. When they inspected it we both agreed that I needed the left side done because of the 'clunking' of the CV and the torn boot. After having it on their lifts, the mechanic said the other boot is torn enough to constitute replacing the axle as well. I would most likely have gone for replacing the other boot because it started to wear out fast since I started commuting but the suggestion for replacing the other axel put me on guard.
I understand the consequences of having a 300D as a commuter and that includes paying expenses when it comes to repairs for a 22 year old car. The continued 'spirit of the problem' is how much it's worth. In the long run, every penny, in the short term, ouch.

Hatterasguy · #14 07-19-2007, 08:57 PM

If they are not leaking now don't touch them. The boots on the axles on the SDL have been cracked pretty bad for years and are still fine.

When they leak swap in quality rebuilds. Because of wear I wouldn't bother rebooting old CV joints. Also once the boot rips dirt gets in, then it makes no sense to reboot them the end is near either way.

CV joints will clunk and give you a lot of warning as they die, don't worry about it.

miljohnj5 · #15 07-19-2007, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

If they are not leaking now don't touch them. The boots on the axles on the SDL have been cracked pretty bad for years and are still fine.

When they leak swap in quality rebuilds. Because of wear I wouldn't bother rebooting old CV joints. Also once the boot rips dirt gets in, then it makes no sense to reboot them the end is near either way.

CV joints will clunk and give you a lot of warning as they die, don't worry about it.

Thanks... I'm also planning on having a few other things done while its in the shop such as replacing the timing chain. I'm also buying a new front air dam assembly because its sort of cheap at $120 for 5 parts (thanks Roy for helping me find the MB stock #'s

).
Anyway, instead having to worry about dents leading to rust in the future, I'm going to primer all the parts then paint them with 'ChassisSaver' THEN paint over that with a rubberized 'rust preventer' and leave it black for the shop to assemble. I believe this is technically referred to as 'overkill'...