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  #1  
Old 07-19-2007, 01:35 PM
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Need a live wire in dash..

Looking for a live wire in the dash/console area for a stereo memory and I don't have a voltmeter.
w123
Thanks,
charles
'82 300tdt

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  #2  
Old 07-19-2007, 02:29 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
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the clock circuit? the MB clock is hot all the time. not sure what wire it is.
I just ran a new wire from the fuse box.
oh, and get a DVM, 8.00 at wall mart.
and take the last t off your car description. all TD's built after 81 are turbos...
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  #3  
Old 07-19-2007, 02:41 PM
My hood can go higher?
 
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The stock Becker stereo had +12V constant fed into it. I can't recall off the top of my head what color it was but I used it in my aftermarket stereo install. I really think you should just bite the bullet and buy a multimeter. They're invaluable little devices and if you don't want to be too invested, there are quite cheap options out there that will get the job done
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  #4  
Old 07-19-2007, 02:46 PM
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Paid $40 for mine in 2001. It'a a crapsman, but it is still functioning well beyond its warranty period of 1 yr.
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  #5  
Old 07-19-2007, 02:50 PM
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I just ran a new wire. I don't like hacking the original wiring system if I can avoid it.
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  #6  
Old 07-19-2007, 03:01 PM
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Mine is under the wooden console shifter cover. Take out the ash tray, unscrew the two screws in the ash tray frame and remove the frame...THEN lift up the wooden shifter cover console thing (with the window switches in it). Mine has an orange wire and a yellow wire under there running next to the shifter going to the radio, both with inline fuses. I can't remember which color was which, but one was constant and the other was illumination (+12v with the parking lights on) but the constant had a much smaller fuse in it...I think 0.5 amps. The illumination wire had a 2 amp fuse.
Hope your's is similar. Good luck.
-Geoff

EDIT - For a redneck current tester, pull the bulb out of the dome light and connect a hot wire to one side and a ground to the other. But really...I got a multimeter from sears for $20 and use it all the time. I should have gotten a better one. If you think you're going to do any automotive electrical work after the stereo (and you probably will on a 20+ year old car), the multimeter is worth it.

(Also edited because I mistakenly said the illumination wire was key-on power)
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Last edited by pizzachef; 07-21-2007 at 05:10 PM.
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  #7  
Old 07-19-2007, 03:38 PM
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Gotta another one...
 
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I could never find one existing for the stereo, so I'm not sure what other people ere found. I just ran a wire straight from the battery +, through with the cabin vac cluster, with an aftermarket fuse, of course.
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  #8  
Old 07-19-2007, 05:28 PM
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You can run a wire over from the headlight switch, not too far or hard. Just remove the kickpanel in driver's footwell, and loosen the headlight switch. Then, attach your line where all the red lines on the switch join together. Like others said, use a voltmeter to confirm this.
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  #9  
Old 07-19-2007, 09:50 PM
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There is an always hot wire on your hazard switch as well, I forget what color it is, but that's where I tied mine in, undid the 2 screws and pulled the ashtray out, reached under and popped the hazard switch, pullthe connector from it and rang the pins to the body until I found it. Popped the back cover carefully off the connector so as to keep the pins in place, pushed out the pin I wanted, soldered another wire into it and reassembled it all. Simple, easy, nearby, and didn't butcher any of the factory wiring.
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  #10  
Old 07-20-2007, 01:39 AM
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I would run a new wire. Take the perspective of an indy mechanic or the next owner...if they had to repair the switch you hacked and they were looking at a wiring diagram, they would be quite confused with the extra wire.
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  #11  
Old 07-20-2007, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2.5Turbo View Post
I would run a new wire. Take the perspective of an indy mechanic or the next owner...if they had to repair the switch you hacked and they were looking at a wiring diagram, they would be quite confused with the extra wire.
Ahh, but a good owner documents these things in a pendaflex file which is then supplied to the new owner if/when the time comes.....or am I just anal? That aside, it's pretty easy to tell it's not part of the factory wiring, and I always use heatshrink wire tags (Being an electrician, I have a bountiful supply of these,lol)
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  #12  
Old 07-20-2007, 07:56 PM
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I took off the kick panel under the dash (3 screws and 2 90degree turb plastic screws). Look up forward of the cruise control amplifier and you will see all the screws that are the terminals from the back of the fuse panel. I just crimped on a ring on my wire for my pyrometer and took out the horn circuit screw. It comes on with the car, and shuts off with it. I want to say that the lower passenger side most one is always hot.
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2007, 11:01 PM
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/car-audio-multimedia/25247d1113005654t-new-radio-wiring-issues-connect.jpg

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