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#1
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Need a live wire in dash..
Looking for a live wire in the dash/console area for a stereo memory and I don't have a voltmeter.
w123 Thanks, charles '82 300tdt |
#2
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the clock circuit? the MB clock is hot all the time. not sure what wire it is.
I just ran a new wire from the fuse box. oh, and get a DVM, 8.00 at wall mart. and take the last t off your car description. all TD's built after 81 are turbos...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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The stock Becker stereo had +12V constant fed into it. I can't recall off the top of my head what color it was but I used it in my aftermarket stereo install. I really think you should just bite the bullet and buy a multimeter. They're invaluable little devices and if you don't want to be too invested, there are quite cheap options out there that will get the job done
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-Dan 1983 240D AT, 163K running on VO, "The Patience Tester" |
#4
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Paid $40 for mine in 2001. It'a a crapsman, but it is still functioning well beyond its warranty period of 1 yr.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#5
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I just ran a new wire. I don't like hacking the original wiring system if I can avoid it.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#6
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Mine is under the wooden console shifter cover. Take out the ash tray, unscrew the two screws in the ash tray frame and remove the frame...THEN lift up the wooden shifter cover console thing (with the window switches in it). Mine has an orange wire and a yellow wire under there running next to the shifter going to the radio, both with inline fuses. I can't remember which color was which, but one was constant and the other was illumination (+12v with the parking lights on) but the constant had a much smaller fuse in it...I think 0.5 amps. The illumination wire had a 2 amp fuse.
Hope your's is similar. Good luck. -Geoff EDIT - For a redneck current tester, pull the bulb out of the dome light and connect a hot wire to one side and a ground to the other. But really...I got a multimeter from sears for $20 and use it all the time. I should have gotten a better one. If you think you're going to do any automotive electrical work after the stereo (and you probably will on a 20+ year old car), the multimeter is worth it. (Also edited because I mistakenly said the illumination wire was key-on power)
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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi 1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now Last edited by pizzachef; 07-21-2007 at 05:10 PM. |
#7
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I could never find one existing for the stereo, so I'm not sure what other people ere found. I just ran a wire straight from the battery +, through with the cabin vac cluster, with an aftermarket fuse, of course.
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1989 300E 144K |
#8
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You can run a wire over from the headlight switch, not too far or hard. Just remove the kickpanel in driver's footwell, and loosen the headlight switch. Then, attach your line where all the red lines on the switch join together. Like others said, use a voltmeter to confirm this.
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'79 240D 4 speed manual 105k miles |
#9
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There is an always hot wire on your hazard switch as well, I forget what color it is, but that's where I tied mine in, undid the 2 screws and pulled the ashtray out, reached under and popped the hazard switch, pullthe connector from it and rang the pins to the body until I found it. Popped the back cover carefully off the connector so as to keep the pins in place, pushed out the pin I wanted, soldered another wire into it and reassembled it all. Simple, easy, nearby, and didn't butcher any of the factory wiring.
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Chris 64 190D R.I.P. 80 240D W/617 engine -for sale 82 240D -for sale |
#10
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I would run a new wire. Take the perspective of an indy mechanic or the next owner...if they had to repair the switch you hacked and they were looking at a wiring diagram, they would be quite confused with the extra wire.
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Dale http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g1...MG_2277sig.jpg 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k 2000 E430 - 103k 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel 4x4 - 11k 2014 VW Passat TDI SE - 7k Bro's Diesel 2006 E320 CDI - 128k Pop's Benz Pre-glow - A moment of silence in honor of Rudolph Diesel |
#11
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Ahh, but a good owner documents these things in a pendaflex file which is then supplied to the new owner if/when the time comes.....or am I just anal? That aside, it's pretty easy to tell it's not part of the factory wiring, and I always use heatshrink wire tags (Being an electrician, I have a bountiful supply of these,lol)
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Chris 64 190D R.I.P. 80 240D W/617 engine -for sale 82 240D -for sale |
#12
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I took off the kick panel under the dash (3 screws and 2 90degree turb plastic screws). Look up forward of the cruise control amplifier and you will see all the screws that are the terminals from the back of the fuse panel. I just crimped on a ring on my wire for my pyrometer and took out the horn circuit screw. It comes on with the car, and shuts off with it. I want to say that the lower passenger side most one is always hot.
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1985 300D Mango Green with 16" Pentas, Vogtland springs, Euros/ clear corners, 234k, lots to come soon.... |
#13
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
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