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#1
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Rebooting the joints, What to buy?
im planning to put new boots on my rear axles. Should i buy the kit with the homokinetic joints or should i just buy the boots?
Thank you |
#2
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You might include what car you are talking about in your signature.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#3
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sorry 84 DT...
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#4
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I really think
That for the DIY there is only one way and that is to replace the entire half shaft. I believe almost all the 82 to 85's take the same half shafts, hooked to the differential with an easily removed "c" clip and with an 8mm bolt through the hub center into the shaft. One of our members wrote an excellent article telling you your every move, and the simple tools needed. Work safe though, and get that rear up in the air and use good jackstands. If you used reconditioned shafts, it runs about $125.00 a side and then it is done right.
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Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
#5
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Im gonna pay a local axle shop 100$ to do both. I was just wondering wether i should buy the 45$ kit with the homokinetic joints or just the boots...
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#6
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I'm not familiar with the "kit" you refer to -- where did you hear about it? The "homokinetic" joint is part of the axle. There's another kind of joint, I don't remember the name, they are interchageable. A charge of only $100 to R&R two axles is very inexpensive, do they know what they are getting into? Does that include seals, diff fluid, etc?
Replacing the boots with the factory parts requires special tools -- does your axle place have them? Look before you leap! Read the following thread (and there are many others): W123 axle R&R job--some questions? Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#7
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im pulling the axles myself and bringing them to the axle shop...
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#8
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yup
yup, thats what I did after buying all the goods.... They uncrimped the can and put their own boots on , lubed her up, and recrimped the can back on hydraulically with a press.. $130 total not including all the stuff I purchased and did not need (still sitting in the bag)..
note, mark the axles, as to which side they came out of and replace everything from where it came from, (including the big C clips), as things wear differently and the spacers must line up correctly. Watch out for any spacers that MAY come out when removing the spline out of the spider gears. (my spacers did not come out, even more important for things to be replaced correctly) Cheers!
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Thank you for all the help guys! "Old Gretchen" <--1983 300SD w126 cali. emissions (so it says on wdw sticker) LIght metallic blue with dark blue interior. Odo stuck at 160,500 mi. www.handydo.joolo.com |
#9
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That is different
A previous writer says to put the shafts back in the same side they were pulled from. Other writers on this forum believe that they should be reversed, that the wear on the axles largely is in the forward way, and reversing them would result in a newer, less worn surface. I bought mine exchange and did not have that option.
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Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
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