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  #61  
Old 07-29-2007, 11:29 AM
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Another pic

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  #62  
Old 07-29-2007, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solostyle View Post
Hi. Uh. Lots of messages, I see.

Let me ask you this, .. It seems like everyone on this forum who has the "same" problem as me has a working relay that clicks whenever they turn the key to pre-glow. Is this not true?

Then how are we all even talking about the same thing? I don't hear anything during pre-glow and yet it still starts smoothly. My problem is not the same as Brian's for example because the relay socket for his first GP didn't have a good reading. Right now for me all the sockets are reading fine. It's odd that this issue isn't shared by anyone else.
I have a similer issue, but my horn nor the reverse lights work. I've changed the fuse and the light goes on but while I'm driving. I assume that after a while, the fuse blows, the light goes out(along with the horn and lights), yet the engine starts smoothly. I'd like to fix this for the cold months if the relay is at fault.
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  #63  
Old 07-29-2007, 01:40 PM
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Afaik, the glow indicator in the dash and the glow plugs are on 2 different isolated circuits. You may not hear the glow relay click on because of the ign lock noise when you turn the key. The best way to tell if your glow plugs are going on or off (and for how long) is hook a test light across it.
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  #64  
Old 07-29-2007, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Yep, I can see how you can be successful on 1-4 with that technique. But, I don't see how anyone can get to #5 without removing both the hard lines and the throttle linkage rod on an SD. No socket is possible in that location.
I moved the throttle linkage and water hose out of the way on #5, but no fuel lines.
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  #65  
Old 07-29-2007, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
I moved the throttle linkage and water hose out of the way on #5, but no fuel lines.
You might be successful with a gear wrench, but, a typical box wrench won't be able to provide enough swing between the hard lines.
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  #66  
Old 07-29-2007, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida View Post
Solo,

Several months ago when I acquired my 84 300TD turbo it had the same problem you describe. No GP dash light, smooth start, all plugs read 0.6 Ohms with a good multimeter. I had to remove each glowplug and test it on the battery (as I already described).

You've verified that the dash light bulb is functional right? If I remember correctly, the GP dash light would work (and time out) on mine when I disconnected the wiring harness at the GP relay.

If you had several GPs out (more than 2) your cold engine start would be noticeably rough. But with only 1 GP out, you might not really notice. And, only GP #1 will cause the light not to work by itself. So start there. Pull the wiring harness (the one that goes to the GPs) off the GP relay and see if the dash light works. If it does, then remove GP #1 and test that it glows red hot on the battery. If not, replace it.

I would probably pull and test all the GPs as well.
Douglas,
You had the same issue? So your relay wasn't clicking during the pre-glow either?
Yes, the dash light bulb is functional. Everything still stands as it was in the first post of this thread.
Just now I took GP#1 and tested it on the battery, it glows. And just to make sure, I tested a brand new GP too, and they both glowed the same way with the same amount of time.
Just to check, I put the brand new #1 GP in and turned the key to pre-glow. Still the same, no dash light, no clicking.

So far it seems like I'm the only one whose car has started smoothly, with no faulty GP wiring, but without any relay clicking noises. Maybe there's something about the clicking that's the key to this.

Maybe the relay isn't sending the signal to the dash light bulb to go on, but everything else about it is fine (the glowing part anyway)?
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  #67  
Old 07-29-2007, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by solostyle View Post

Maybe the relay isn't sending the signal to the dash light bulb to go on, but everything else about it is fine (the glowing part anyway)?
Yep.

You'll have to change the relay if you want the light back.........
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  #68  
Old 07-29-2007, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Afaik, the glow indicator in the dash and the glow plugs are on 2 different isolated circuits. You may not hear the glow relay click on because of the ign lock noise when you turn the key. The best way to tell if your glow plugs are going on or off (and for how long) is hook a test light across it.
Hey funola,
Hmm.. I do hear it click on, actually, or I hear a loud click JUST as I turn the key to that pre-glow position. Is that the click everyone's talking out? Maybe I have this idea that it's supposed to continue for 20 or 30 seconds.

Hook a test light.. Could I just do that from the relay pins themselves? Maybe get a light that can handle that much power and hook the positive to each pin in the relay box, the negative to ground..? Or should it be tested on the other side, near the GPs?
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  #69  
Old 07-29-2007, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Yep.

You'll have to change the relay if you want the light back.........

Haaaahahahaha. Oh man. *Sigh* So how will I ever know if the plugs are bad? I would rather not spend so much on a new relay if the light is the only problem. Maybe I could just keep extra GP's on hand and keep checking the relay plug with the multimeter until something looks fishy.
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  #70  
Old 07-29-2007, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by solostyle View Post
Haaaahahahaha. Oh man. *Sigh* So how will I ever know if the plugs are bad? I would rather not spend so much on a new relay if the light is the only problem. Maybe I could just keep extra GP's on hand and keep checking the relay plug with the multimeter until something looks fishy.
When it gets colder, you'll hear it start on four cylinders. It's quite obvious. In fact, if you lose #2,#3, #4, or #5, your perceptive powers are all you have for an initial diagnosis. The light works normally.

I had a failure on #5. It was obvious that one of them had failed.
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  #71  
Old 07-29-2007, 05:35 PM
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Make a test light with alligator clips. One end to ground, the other to a glow plug. Simple enough? When the bulb is lit, the glow plugs have power to them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by solostyle View Post
Hey funola,
Hmm.. I do hear it click on, actually, or I hear a loud click JUST as I turn the key to that pre-glow position. Is that the click everyone's talking out? Maybe I have this idea that it's supposed to continue for 20 or 30 seconds.

Hook a test light.. Could I just do that from the relay pins themselves? Maybe get a light that can handle that much power and hook the positive to each pin in the relay box, the negative to ground..? Or should it be tested on the other side, near the GPs?
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  #72  
Old 07-29-2007, 06:10 PM
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Another possibility...

... is that you have a break in the wire to GP #1.

Easy to verify if you have a continuity tester.
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  #73  
Old 07-29-2007, 06:50 PM
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The wire is probably good because the resistance in the relay plug is consistently good.
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Last edited by solostyle; 07-29-2007 at 07:31 PM.
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  #74  
Old 07-29-2007, 07:26 PM
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interesting

Interesting, my glow plug light on the dash appears to work only intermittently (it only comes on about 2/5 times with the engine dead cold). However, the plugs seem to be getting plenty hot as the car starts perfectly everytime, unless I don't preglow and just turn the key dircetly to the start position.
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  #75  
Old 07-29-2007, 07:52 PM
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I had a glow plug light failure this past week. happened while I was out with the wife, came out from the building, jumped in the car, turned the key, no light and no start.

cranked for about 40 seconds and finally started.

Checked everything and couldn't find any failures, but I had some flaky digital meter readings, so was quite frustrated by that.

Finally with key in on position, checked voltage across fusible link and it was fluctuating. Placed my positive lead in the middle of the link and it separated. Didn't look blown until I did that.

Has anyone ever tried to buy a fusible link on "Buy Parts" link???? I couldn't find one, so I'm going to the stealership this week. In the meantime, for 2.99 at the parts store I got an 80amp spade fuse, bent the leads, cranked the screws down to hold it in place and car starts after 5 second glow, without even a hiccup.

Worldpac really has a wierd system for their parts.....
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