By the way, does anyone have any idea why my seat moves back when I'm cranking and the battery is running low on juice..?????

That's really irritating to be a mile from the accelerator pedal when I'm having trouble getting the vehicle started.

__________________
1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif

(for now at least)

1) Pull each GP and test on the battery. Its critical at this point to know that they are all functional

2) Before you reconnect the plug wires, put a 12 test light in-line between the plug wire and ground. It should light up for 30-45 sec in the pre-glow position.

3) Verify that the wiring Crossed wires. Easy enough to check, just make sure that the same colored wire is running from pin #1 to plug #1. This idea is based on a bad plug (wired to #1) in a different cylinder. (admittedly kind of stupid, but I've seen stranger things)

If the first two tests are positive, then I'd say that yes you have a relay that is functionally good, but for some reason won't send a signal to the dash light. Personally, I'd ignore it until I could find an inexpensive (salvage) replacement. The dash light is unimportant really, you'll know if the GP's aren't working.

BTW, make sure your block heater is in good working order before your first Chicago winter.

Just to follow up on our #1 GP discussion from last week, I got home today and verified that it was just the #1 GP that was causing my light to stay off. Replaced the GP, problem solved.

Strange design.

I don't want to sidetrack this entirely, but with my glowplug problems, I found that my relay was sticking as well, just it was not turning off.

Following a thread I found after a good bit of digging, and possibly another member's suggestion, I opened the box that controls the plugs (sometimes called the relay, but the actual relay is just a component inside it), carefully filed the points on the relay, and tested it again. The newly filed contacts no longer bound up, and the car has been starting (and stopping the glow cycle) correctly ever since.

I don't know if this would be in any way applicable to the current situation, but it's free, and not an overly difficult way to save ~$80 on a new GP controller!

__________________
-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...

My 1992 200D is a wee bit stranger. the GP light does not come on until after the engine is srarted..!!!! Anyone had this happen to them ?