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  #16  
Old 07-29-2007, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I'd strongly recommend removing the radiator and cleaning it with condenser cleaner. If you don't..........we'll be doing the "I told you so".........in a couple of weeks.
Brian is right about this.

If you've got the system drained, its less than 20 minutes to pull the radiator.

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  #17  
Old 07-29-2007, 12:15 AM
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I use Sierra brand polypropelene glycol type antifreeze. This is plasic based and is evironmentally friendly.
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  #18  
Old 07-29-2007, 05:36 AM
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new radiators on 20 year old cars is best option My auxilury fan runs all the time till september then i wire back properly but i have no a/c

pssst dont tell anyone but i have green coolant but car will prolly die any day now
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  #19  
Old 07-29-2007, 10:08 AM
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Citric acid flush is not supposed to be done until after a deoil of the system is done. De-oiling is required whether or not there are any signs of oil in the cooling system. Otherwise the citric acid flush will not be nearly as effective. De-oiling is as simple as dumping in some Liquid Tide (some use dishwasher soap or you can buy the Mercedes product), heating it up to circulate it and then doing a good flush.
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  #20  
Old 07-29-2007, 11:37 AM
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Order it online, this site sells it. Order over $100 worth of stuff and the shipping is free. Thats not hard $100 is pocket change when your fixing one of these.
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  #21  
Old 07-29-2007, 01:47 PM
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next time I am due for coolant in this one, I am tempted to go to evans waterless coolant. diesels are more effecient at higher temps, and evans will not boil to 300*F-ish. of course, a new custom thermostat will be needed.

of course, this is a all cast engine.
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  #22  
Old 07-29-2007, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
next time I am due for coolant in this one, I am tempted to go to evans waterless coolant. diesels are more effecient at higher temps, and evans will not boil to 300*F-ish. of course, a new custom thermostat will be needed.

of course, this is a all cast engine.
PEH uses it and swears by the stuff.

But, 100% coolant has about 75% of the thermal capability of pure water.........so, you can bet that it's going to run hotter........even without a change in thermostat. The cooling system won't keep up the the load on a hot day running high power levels (uphill).
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  #23  
Old 07-29-2007, 04:08 PM
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ok, so they may run hotter, but- what is the upper safe temp levels on our engines, when the boiling piont of water is not a factor? from what I have read, the diesel truck guys using evans havent had issues getting into the 230*F range.

sorry- this will be my last post about this on this thread- we could start a new one...or revive an old one...
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  #24  
Old 07-29-2007, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
ok, so they may run hotter, but- what is the upper safe temp levels on our engines, when the boiling piont of water is not a factor? from what I have read, the diesel truck guys using evans havent had issues getting into the 230*F range.
That's the proverbial question of the day. The engine wasn't designed to run continuously at 230F. What it will do with such a temperature is unknown.

Remember, it's got a lot of very close tolerances when compared to the typical gasser.

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