ain't nothin ever easy stripped drain plugs - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

blindwolf · #1 07-30-2007, 04:55 PM

While doing a filter and fluiid change on my 83' 300D, I made the mistake of thinking that this is going to be easy. Drain plugs, what a great idea, right? Wrong! I stripped both the one in the pan and the torque convertor. So I am assembling the parts to change to fluid/filter again because I was not able to drain the TC. My question is this, is there a better way to remove the stripped plug, othan than an easy out. The idea of making metal filings around the tranny is a scary prospect.

83 300D 277K
79 Chevy Scottsdale P/U 500K
87 Honda CRXsi 140K
82 Honda GL1100 about 30 feet farther than it should have.

mobetta · #2 07-30-2007, 06:19 PM

I take it you stripped the allen recess, not the actual threads- You may be able to find an easy out that fits the stripped recess.

removal of the pan is easy, if messy, without draining it. leave 2 screws in loosely on oposite corners, and remove the rest. use a big drain pan.

I think I read somewhere that the TC's have more than 1 drain? so that it is easier to find one.

or else do the fluid change the way a tranny shop does(kinda) unhook the line from the rad and run car, adding fluid as fast as it is coming out.

invest in a set of metric allen sockets, and always clean out the recess w/ a pick first.

TMAllison · #3 07-30-2007, 07:15 PM

If you striped the recessed hex you can sometimes pound a torx bit in the hole or you can tack weld a nut to it and use that to turn it; this assuming vice grips wont grab it.

If you striped the pans you can get oversized plugs.

blindwolf · #4 07-30-2007, 07:57 PM

Ya, I stripped out the recess on both plugs. I was using the correct drive/bit, but judging by the condition of the fluid, they had not been removed in years.

Jeremy5848 · #5 07-30-2007, 08:33 PM

I wonder if an impact driver would help in a similar situation (before the hex recess was stripped)? Will the torque converter withstand a little hammering? Cleaning the hex recess and using a tight-fitting wrench would seem to be the right things to do initially. Maybe a little heat from a heat gun or torch? I hate thinking about heating something with oil in it but you've got to break the seal somehow.

blindwolf · #6 07-30-2007, 09:17 PM

I think that I am going to park her for a couple of days and JB weld a couple of drive bits to the plugs, let it cure overnight and the try to break them with my air ratchet

TMAllison · #7 07-30-2007, 09:23 PM

Spray it clean with brake cleaner to degrease them first. Debris was probably the problem the first time. Is important that hex and torx bits fit snuggly.

New2MB · #8 07-30-2007, 10:53 PM

After what I've been through with easy-outs (should be called hardest-ever-outs) I would highly recommend you DO NOT use easy outs. Once those damn things snap off inside your stripped out hole you are in serious trouble. They are super hard and brittle which of course is why they break and then you need a diamond carbide tungsten tipped piece of dynomite to get the damn things out.

Here's my latest postings on the topic...
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I've heard that reverse pitch drill bits work better but I've never tried them.

I think the torx bit pounded in idea sounded good and you're obviously in a tight spot since the drain plugs are so stuck that they got rounded off so I would do the PB thing and put some heat on it hopefully without starting a fire.

For the TC drain you may be able to get a good sharp chisel in there and use it to dig into the side of the plug and tap it back out. Sometimes just tapping the bolt will help loosen it up.

My dad showed me that tightening a bolt can often get it to break free. I'm not sure why it works but it does.

Living in the north I've probably spent more time trying to get rusty bolts out then actually working on cars.

Good luck!