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#16
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hey guys,
ok, i didnt get a chance to work on the car last nite, but i got home and tried to reseat the injector line. it did not work. also, it was really difficult to get the engine to turn over. i imagine this injector's problem has something to do with it anyways, i finally got it to turn over and its idling around 600 rpm. so i went to check the injector and its clear that the injector is leaking from the hole where the hard line goes in. it is not leaking from the plugged return line at all. also, i talked with roy (one of the guys---or was it phil?) and he recommended that i pull off the plug return line. man, how do you get that thing off?!!? theres hardly any space. i read on the forum that its good to get a screwdriver under there and pull it off while gliding it. any tips for this one? i'm gonna go back and try it again. in the meantime, any more suggestions? bob |
#17
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#18
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Hi Brian,
I took a look w/ my magnifying glass and i think i see a very small fissure..i wiped the line and i see just a tiny black line. maybe thats it. Anyways, the line needs to be replaced, thats for sure. Do you have any tips on how to get that braided plugged line off? I'm not sure what the inner part looks like, so i prefer not to attempt it just yet without knowing i wont damage it. would a pair of needle nose pliers do the job? Bob |
#19
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Don't pull the plugged return line off until you have new ones. They are really hard after 20 years. I grabbed mine with locking pliers to pull them off. You don't want to use anything that is going to damage the barb that holds the line on.
Chris
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#20
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That's got nothing to do with your problem........and, if you persist.......you'll create another one and incur significantly more expense if you damage an injector return nipple. |
#21
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brian,
point taken, though preventative maintenance is not such a bad idea on 20 yr old lines that probably are not that expensive to replace. bob |
#22
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Be extremely careful in removing the old lines. They don't want to come off the injector nipples........you can carefully use some neddlenose pliers to "crack" them loose by rotating the hose. Pulling on the hose will absolutely not be successful. You can also slice the hose.......but, this is the most dangerous approach........because if the knife hits the injector nipple, you've got all the ingredients for a leak when the new hose is installed. |
#23
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When I changed mine to Vioton. I grabbed them above the nipple with locking pliers, twisted them to break them loose and then pulled up. Some came off easier than others, but they all came off. Again, I would not try it without the new hoses in hand.
Chris
__________________
1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#24
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wow, what a night and day difference. i got the fuel line today , changed out of my work clothes, got into the garage work clothes, and got to it. it took about 10 minutes, if that. i fired her up and there was a noticeable difference in the lack of engine shake when starting up, a quieter idle (but too low), and the tach responded nicely when i gunned it a few times. of course, i needed to take her out for a short drive, and the engine defintely had more pep to it. as i said, the tach flowed smoothly up as compared to how it slowly made its way up when i got it. for a few days, i was wondering if my turbo was working or not, but now i'm convinced that it does. i guess i was not generating much exhaust pressure to spool it up.
i did two very short 0-60 test (by counting in my head, haha) and i guesstimated it was about 15-16 seconds, which i think is on the high end, but still not bad. now that thats out of the way, im somewhat satisfied at this point and feeling that i can move onto other tasks like the rust issue as well as the suspension/tires issue. i bought the part from phil here. arrived very quickly and the price was competitive. thanks, phil! bob |
#25
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I had the same problem awhile back. cyl 4 line was leaking, so I bought a new one and replaced it, shortly after that cyl 1 line did the same thing, I bought a new one and replaced it. By the time a third line started leaking, I learned my lesson and just replaced the rest of them. Problem solved and no leaks for the last 2 years. It might be a good idea to buy them now and have them on hand for when the next one goes.
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350 |
#26
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well i finally got around to changing out the return lines. unlike what most others have experienced, mine just came off so easy. two of them tore at the base of the nipple, but i used a xacto knife and carefully split them with the blade facing away and at an angle from the barbed end. it was really simple. i wrote down all the lengths of the hoses too. ill post pics later
my lines were weeping quite a bit. i put one on the ground and stomped on it. it looked much like when you put a napkin on a cheese pizza. i bought viton hose lines from member Jadavis and his fryerpower.com website. great service and highly recommended. the only thing that wouldve made the expereince better would be instructions w/ pics. at least thats what i'd do id say by doing this that about 50% of that nasty diesel smell went away. futher, id say that the idling issue that i had was mitigated by this. |
#27
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good going with the x-acto knife, that's the way I do 'em, I score the outer woven fabric then the old hose usually pulls off easily.
And Viton is the right material for the 603's and later engines that do not need valve adjusts, it should last a dozen years, mine is over 2 years in service and still like the way it was when I bought it. Viton however will pull off easier than the regular covered hoses, don't put it under any stress or it may come loose. Also, if you made the lengths long enough, you can remove it if you have to (say for having the injectors pop tested) then cut off a short bit from the ends and reuse the hoses, Viton is great! Now get that thing up to 4000 RPM in high gear and tell us how it runs!
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
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