I hit a rock and now my oil pan has a huge hole in it. I immediately stopped the engine so i'm hoping there's no further damage.

i'm wondering if anyone can give me the step by step instructions on how to replace the oil pan and gasket. i know it involves putting the car on jack stands and then hoisting the engine a few inches, however, i have not seen any specific for the 603 engine. this is a 1987 300td wagon w124.

questions:
1) how do i do this (step by step)
2) will i need to remove the exhaust manifold?
3) should i use sealant on the new gasket?
4) what is the proper torque for the oil pan bolts.

many thanks in advance.

unfortunately the oil pan on a 603 is more involved than a 617 since it's one piece. Because of this, I strongly suggest that you buy the factory service manual on CD available from mercedes USA for about $20. You'll be able to use it time and again after that first time

good luck.

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1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD
1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project)
2007 Pinarello F3:13
1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff)
1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD)

The biggest issue for first timers is to locate the two bolts that hold the engine in place at the motor mount area. It is an allen wrench type bolt, which is HIDDEN from view until you look in those big holes in the frame of the car and locate the bolts. Once you find those, just look at the car and see what all needs to be moved, like the radiator for instance. Then hoist the car up and get your wrenches and start taking the bolts out to remove the pan. It might be a good idea to use a piece of card board to place the bolts, so you don't have to waste a lot of time trying to figure out where the bolts came from (some are longer than others). Anyway, get the disk if you can, but it not, just look at it and fix it.

BenzDiesel

thanks for the responses so far. benzdiesel, to answer your question, i have a crane and jack stands and a level area.

Unfortunately the factory service manual for the W124s is not yet $20. Once mercedes certifies the car as classic the manual on cd will be available from MBUSA. Until the model is designated as classic, the CD has to be ordered from a dealer or the other channels and it is quite a bit more expensive. Of course they are available on ebay, etc.

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1987 300TD 231,000
#22, afterglow, plastic fan, euro lights, alternator upgrade, cluster housing update

I called MB USA's 800 number (800-for-merc maybe? something like that) and it cost me $70-80 for my W124 cd... well worth it once you figure out the navigation to where the info actually is!

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John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 240k
'87 300TD - 318k

I looked it up on the cd and it seems very involved and looks like a tough one because it is one piece. On the gas 300 I read where they were able to jack up engine and put planks of wood between the mounts and the engine arms but dont know if this would work with the diesel. Good luck

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Pete.

Actually some 123's require the engine to come out before access to the pan (the upper pan) because there is a cross member under the engine.
The 603 pan comes out without a problem. Theres the oil sensor to disconnect. I can't remember anything else that was difficult. The airfilter assy and radiator were out already as was the evaporator.
I just torque to "snug enuff" on the bolts, I've never bothered to check torque on small ones like that

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Partial DIY pictoral of 603 oil pan R&R

I am right behind you. PO had a crack quick fixed and I don't trust the RTV.

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!