Reman calipers - Cardone. But are they Bendix, ATE, what? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ck42 · #1 08-11-2007, 03:01 PM

Looking at replacing the front calipers with rebuilds and just started looking around. I'm finding that they're only listed by the reman (Cardone) and don't specify what the original brand is.
I'm *wanting* to get ATE (have Bendix right right now) since it appears that the ATE's support a thicker pad. This would explain why I keep having to sand down my pads to get them to fit.
So, can you specify that you want a particular brand when you buy these Cardone reman calipers or is the luck of the draw?

Thing is, if you're only replacing one side, you WANT to have the same brand and not mix-match. So if you have to just take what they give you, then that's pretty messed up.

Monomer · #2 08-11-2007, 04:07 PM

I got ATE's from them.

I ordered an axle set, so it didnt matter. I would call who you ordered from.

Hit Man X · #3 08-11-2007, 06:19 PM

Just tell them which you want, the local place here carries both. Around $43-51/cal with lifetime warranty.

ck42 · #4 08-11-2007, 06:29 PM

$43-$51 ?!!

I'm seeing them for quite a bit more than that. More like ~$70'ish/ea.

Chris

Hit Man X · #5 08-11-2007, 06:32 PM

I buy all my calipers and pads from O'Reilly Auto. I've purchased about seven in the past week (don't ask).

Are you including the core price? That is $15-25 too.

ck42 · #6 08-11-2007, 06:40 PM

The site I've priced at didn't list a core charge....so I'm assuming that the price is w/o a core exchange.

Just checked O'Reilly. Yep...I see them there for $50 with the core charge...and you can choose whether you want ATE or Bendix. Looks like that's the way to go. Thanx!

Chris

Hit Man X · #7 08-11-2007, 06:43 PM

Oh also, you can't put an '86+ caliper on an '85 and down car. The rotor was too thick.

Even at $70/ea with a lifetime warranty it's not bad. Many of mine had a rusted+seized piston in the bore so rebuilding on my time isn't worth the cost to try to save a few beans. My time is worth more than the $40 in your case, and in my case it was only around $23 for a rebuild kit versus an average of about $47/caliper.

asnowsquall · #8 08-11-2007, 07:25 PM

I've rebuilt in the past and they don't last because they just rust again. Not sure if or why the proffessional rebuilds last, maybe they throw out the rusted ones. That or they bored them out for fresh metal and put in new pistons. This I doubt.
Seems to me calipers are designed to fail, but maybe there is no way arounds it. That boot just traps in the moisture, but it has to be there to protect the cylinder. Think how hot that metal gets and on the other side of the boot it can be sub zero out, talk about moisture. Then the brake fluid is hydroscopic (is that the term) where it attracts the moisture.

tangofox007 · #9 08-11-2007, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asnowsquall

Seems to me calipers are designed to fail, but maybe there is no way arounds it. That boot just traps in the moisture, but it has to be there to protect the cylinder. .

Applying caliper grease under the boot (like the ATE overhaul instructiion sheet specifies) will go a long way toward solving he rust proplem.

asnowsquall · #10 08-12-2007, 06:01 AM

COOL, didn't know that was the way to do it. I was talking to a friend the other day and saying why not brake grease under the boot.

estod · #11 08-12-2007, 01:41 PM

Flushing the fluid occasionally will also help keep water away from the pistons. On the theory that the water collects at the piston anyway, I think a couple of good squirts from each wheel once a year should be a big help.

Kind of like the small plane guys draining just a little gas from the bottom of each tank before they fly in case some water has collected.

Snowsquall -- when you rebuilt the calipers, did you hone the piston bores? Ther's a little 3-stone hone you can get (K-D or Lisle, probably) that will hone the rust out & put hone marks in for the seals to grab on to (chucks into an electric drill)-- otherwise the seals will either have trouble seating, or sometimes get torn up from deposits left by rusting.

tangofox007 · #12 08-12-2007, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by estod

On the theory that the water collects at the piston anyway, I think a couple of good squirts from each wheel once a year should be a big help.

When it comes to brake fluid, that theory just doesn't hold water. Brake fluid absorbs water; low point drains won't solve the problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by estod

Snowsquall -- when you rebuilt the calipers, did you hone the piston bores? Ther's a little 3-stone hone you can get (K-D or Lisle, probably) that will hone the rust out & put hone marks in for the seals to grab on to (chucks into an electric drill.

Could you post a pictue of that hone being used on a fixed caliper with opposing pistons?

Hones marks for the seals to grab????????