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New member - (with transmission problem)
Hi everyone. I've been browsing a bit and this looks like a great board. Very friendly and knowledgeable. I think I'll be learning a lot here. And FastLane has some great prices, too. My parents were the 2nd owner of an '84 300TD, which I sort of took over a few years ago. I swiped it from them because I'm a metal sculptor and this thing has been invaluable as a supplies hauler. It grew on me pretty quick. It's not doing so good appearance wise, but I haven't had any serious mechanical issues until now. I've done some self educating (which is how I found this place)but I'm pretty much a newbie when it comes to this car.
Well, enough about me. On to the problem. I'm having a problem with it getting into gear (or rather, not getting into gear). It seems like it's not going into first from idle. And it seems to have trouble grabbing the gear once it decides to try. It's been a while, and I read about replacing the transmission filter and fluid on here. I ordered the filter kit from Fastlane, and did the job yesterday. Except I thought I had a 26mm socket in my kit at my studio, but I was wrong. So the torque converter didn't get drained. I did go ahead and replace the filter and top up the fluid. No help. Well, a little. Also, I had what I thought was a typical small leak, like my engine oil leak, but since I did the filter/fluid, it's worse. I can't really tell where it's coming from, but it is a little forward of the oil pan, and the fluid ends up as a small drip off the passenger side tie rod (? not sure, but it's one of those lower suspension/steering arms). Still, it doesn't seem bad enough to cause the problem but maybe it's a symptom? I searched before posting, and have seen mention of a B2 piston and K-1 spring... could this be my problem? Anyway, thanks for reading, and any help you can give me. |
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Will it go onto reverse?
Also, seals do shrink and that will let the fluid pass through resulting in no movement as well. Did the tranny fluid smell burnt? Was it a nice healthy red or was it pink, brown or black? Worst case, new or rebuilt tranny time w/new torque converter. TC's do go out as well. How many miles on the car? was the tranny ever serviced?
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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Yes.
Quote:
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thanks |
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bump. Fast moving forum
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Quote:
I would check the linage. There seems to be a rubber gromment or something that gets old. Mine right now, I need to go into L to get into gear because the linkage is so loose. One of those "I will get around to it". Also, one thing that I found has worked great for me is Saefoam Transmission Fluid. I have put this into three different cars and it has worked wonferfully! The shifting is smoother and the like.
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NC Benz Fuquay-Varina, NC 1979 300D 1983 300D Turbo 260,000 Miles 1984 300D Turbo 345,000 Miles (sons car) OBK #31 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4l (fer Haulin'!) 145,000 1973 19' SeaRay with 115 Mercury TOWER OF POWER! Club Car Golf Cart 36V Ex toys: 1967 Mustang 289 (First Car) Fiat 124TC 1975 Honda CVCC 1980 Audi 5000 Turbo |
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Quote:
Thanks. |
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The shifter linkage. There are one ortwo bushings that do wear out.
How much stuff was at the bottom of the pan?
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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Quote:
Quote:
TIA
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1984 300TD |
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Typically you see a little shavings (stuff), and that is normal. Having none can means either really good clutches, or over time the eroded away, and are now smooth metal rings.
The linkage for the shifter is under the car, at the tranny on the driver side. I have not had to change mine, yet, but the time will be coming. Do a search on this site for transmission linkage bushings or gear selector bushings.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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Thanks. Hopefully I'll get a chance to check tomorrow.
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1984 300TD |
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I took the car into the shop, and they said I have 'internal problems', and the trans needs to be replaced. Since my car is probably the worst rusted running diesel on here, the mechanic agreed it's not worth replacing, and said I should just drive it til it dies.
I mentioned the shifter linkage and he said yes, it has nylon bushings, but they aren't my problem. The shop was recommended here, and has done work on the car before, but I can't help but think maybe they weren't that interested in working on it. He also said he couldn't duplicate my problem, but I don't know how that could be possible as it always does it. Anyway, I'm not going to replace the transmission. I know very little about working on this car, but I'd like to try it (rehabbing the one I have). I've searched and read the DIY links, but most of the time the original post is already too many steps ahead of me, so I find I'm learning, but not from the beginning. For example, I searched ALDA, but no links actually described what it is/does (I followed a link to dieselgiant for the info). I think I need to work on the vacuum system, hope to replace the K1 spring, and suspect my problem might be the B2 piston. So, though it may be repetition (sorry for that) can someone give me a checklist of things I can /examine/adjust/replace to tune up the transmission? I know nothing about the vacuum system on the car, but I understand from what I've read it impacts the transmission. Do I start there, and if so, how? I'm going to do the linkage bushings whether I they are causing my problem or not (I'm sure it needs it). Before I ask how to, is it something I can do? For skill assessment, what I've read of the B2 piston seems beyond my current ability. I'm an inexperienced shade tree mechanic, but I've done some work on my cars (water pump, lower ctrl arm were the most complicated) as well as taking stuff apart for use in my sculptures so I'm not too timid/unwilling. Any help is greatly appreciated. TIA
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1984 300TD Last edited by tankdriver; 07-24-2007 at 08:05 PM. |
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Since the mechanic stated he could not duplicate your problem. Yet for you it's there all the time. Perhaps he is doing something different. Might be worth checking. I admit what he might be doing different is beyond me. But still the car should act the same for him. The fault is not intermittent.
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Further developments: read some more stuff on here, and have more to add.
First, it seems worse when I turn. Often it'll slip out of gear, and then when it finally does grab and then go for 2nd, it seems like it kind of grabs and lets go real fast. Like there's someone behind kicking the car. Also, when I slow to a stop, there's a clunk from the rear as I get close to stopped. It'll roll forward if I'm hardly on the gas. It goes into reverse fine, but the back end of the car lifts.
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1984 300TD |
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The back end lifting is normal for independent suspension equipped cars.
Is it worse on ANY turns, or specific ones? My car rolls foward or backward (depending on selection of course) at idle
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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Where are you located? maybe a forum member could help you.
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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD 82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride 82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown 83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too 84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD 85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project |
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