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  #16  
Old 08-22-2007, 09:55 AM
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Car looks fine. Being a CT native the car looks pretty good :-)

If you're a shadetree mechanic and like tinkering. Make a good cash offer and use the saved money and replace the usual wear and tear items on your spare time and change that oil with some good diesel rated sweetness and you're all set. If I still lived there I'd probably jump all over that. It's got OEM xenon's and leather seats (no heating though). Tough to find that combo stock....

My $0.02

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  #17  
Old 08-22-2007, 10:02 AM
Gene
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daleearl View Post
Just my 0.02, but I would avoid a car that's lived in CT for 10 years. My '91 Golf was only there for about 8 and that was enough to make many simple repairs challenging due to frozen hardware. In my book it's worth paying a premium to find a California or SW car.

Dude, MBz harware dont freeze like that in a 9 yr old car. Aint a Vdub.

He has less than 10K in the car. Make an appropriate offer after inspecting it. Looks like a nice ride.
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  #18  
Old 08-22-2007, 10:04 AM
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I just bought mine a couple weeks ago from autotrader also. Same model and year, 148K mi. Black/black, a little less road rash, no rust, leather, alpine stereo, roof. I paid $10.5K plus $1K shipping to va. from CA. No records, divorced wife burned the records! I love mine, check the stuff mentioned previously, SERVICE the TRANNY! With those miles 10.5-11K sounds like a good deal (if everything works).
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  #19  
Old 08-22-2007, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by WINGAS View Post
Dude, MBz harware dont freeze like that in a 9 yr old car. Aint a Vdub.

He has less than 10K in the car. Make an appropriate offer after inspecting it. Looks like a nice ride.
Yep, never had a problem working on 10 year old MB suspension parts. Its the 20 year old stuff that's frozen.
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  #20  
Old 08-24-2007, 01:09 PM
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Thanks for all the replies everybody!

So I went to check it out, I found the following:

-100+ tiny stone chips in hood.
-Small piece of grill bent.
-Little dents here and there.
-Glow plug light went off, then came back on while engine was running.

-A/C worked, but could have been colder (IMO).
-Rear pass. side window does not work.
-Drivers seat back unscrewed and on the floor.
-Pass headlight cleaner broken.
-Drivers side of skirt appears to be spray painted (over scratches).
-Rust around trunk key.
-Trunk lid re-painted (drip marks under license plate).
-All alum. under hood looks quite weathered (oxidized).
-Wheels extremely gouged and rim actually dented in a few spots (worse than I have ever seen, even a couple of the wheel faces were rashed).
-Plastic (simulated wood) piece closest to armrest cracked.
-Nicks here and there on the armrests.
-No manuals in glove box.
-Entry molding missing from rear pass. side door jamb.


Front spring perches did look good to me, original sealant appeared to be in place, paint was peeling off springs and rusting.

And it did have a Mobil-1 synthetic sticker under the hood.

The nice salesman agreed with me that the car has defects, and said his boss who was not there "because he is in a little trouble" today will call me tomorrow.
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  #21  
Old 08-24-2007, 01:35 PM
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So much for company paid, no expense spared, maintenance.

I'd pass based on what you saw.

There are others out there that have beeen cared for better.
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  #22  
Old 08-24-2007, 02:23 PM
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If you can get it cheap enough it's still worth pursuing. Nothing on that list of "defects" is uncurable. Remember, with any 10 year old car you will be chasing down issues...use the condition to your advantage and offer $9K for it. If you can get it for under $10K you can still fix it up and have a pretty darn nice low lmiles car for $12K or so and you will know it is fixed up right if you do it yourself.
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  #23  
Old 08-24-2007, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
If you can get it cheap enough it's still worth pursuing. Nothing on that list of "defects" is uncurable. Remember, with any 10 year old car you will be chasing down issues...use the condition to your advantage and offer $9K for it. If you can get it for under $10K you can still fix it up and have a pretty darn nice low lmiles car for $12K or so and you will know it is fixed up right if you do it yourself.

+1
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  #24  
Old 08-24-2007, 04:44 PM
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GPs coming on with engine running is not necessarily a defect, as long as this "afterglow" doesn't last more than 20-30 seconds (60 tops). It's intended to smooth out a rough running engine, so you would expect it to happen more in cold weather than warm.
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  #25  
Old 08-24-2007, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by pjc View Post
GPs coming on with engine running is not necessarily a defect, as long as this "afterglow" doesn't last more than 20-30 seconds (60 tops). It's intended to smooth out a rough running engine, so you would expect it to happen more in cold weather than warm.
I don't believe this is correct. If the light comes on again after the engine started it is usually a sign of a bad GP and the light is a warning, though I could be wrong. I've never seen my GP light come back on after the engine started in nearly 3 years...even in -10F cold weather.
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  #26  
Old 08-24-2007, 07:19 PM
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Bad glow plug/plugs if the light is on after start or flashes. Should be a code in the Freeze Frame data as well.
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  #27  
Old 08-24-2007, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
I don't believe this is correct. If the light comes on again after the engine started it is usually a sign of a bad GP and the light is a warning, though I could be wrong. I've never seen my GP light come back on after the engine started in nearly 3 years...even in -10F cold weather.
Mine did that when there was a bad GP.
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  #28  
Old 08-24-2007, 11:15 PM
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The glow plug light was on until I shut the engine off (15 mins total)? Prob a fault as mentioned above. Prob no biggie.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
If you can get it cheap enough it's still worth pursuing. Nothing on that list of "defects" is uncurable. Remember, with any 10 year old car you will be chasing down issues...use the condition to your advantage and offer $9K for it. If you can get it for under $10K you can still fix it up and have a pretty darn nice low lmiles car for $12K or so and you will know it is fixed up right if you do it yourself.
I was actually thinking $9K too, though another fellow here got one with 150K miles for $10.5 with much less road rash. Can $1,500 offset all the things wrong with this one even with the lower mileage?

Honestly seeing that many defects is a turn off unless it is a smokin' hot deal. Our 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 175K is in just about perfect shape, detailed and it would look nearly new, I have seen many other 1998 vehicles that look great.

The paint and body imperfections are the worst IMO, repaint would be $$$, wheel repairs or replacement would be $$$.

After I told the salesman the list of defects I found, he agreed with me and said something to the extent of "forget this car, I am going to wholesale it, I can get this price doing that"

I then offered him $9K if he did not want to go that route, he is going to ask manager to call me tomorrow.

Did all that just sound contradicting or what? HAHA.

-John
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  #29  
Old 08-24-2007, 11:49 PM
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Lil nagging things wrong and poor quality repairs speaks volumns concerning the PO's idea of maint and care.

Makes me wonder how many times the owner was too busy to worry about topping off or changing the oil as well.

I'll stand by my "pass" personally.
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  #30  
Old 08-25-2007, 06:53 AM
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If you do pursue it I'd suggest you have the seller have the glow plugs replaced prior to you buying it...that way if one breaks off it is not your problem.

You know there's a problem with the GP system and at least one is bad. It could be broken off already in there...so I'd revise my last statement and say other than the GP problem I'd say everything else is easily fixed. The broken GP is a potentiall costly repair (head removal).


Used wheels for these cars are plentiful in good shape. You can buy a set, probably with good rubber on them for $100 each used. A good body shop can respray the hood and touch up other spots without repainting the entire car, but even if the whole car were repainted it would then really look "like new" and be better than others out there.

Without seeing the car it's impossible for any of us to judge it as well as you have, so, passing on it may be the right call, but I always love a challenge.

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