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#1
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What glue do they use to adhere the vinyl to the support column?
I am trying to replace the ripped vinyl on my support column, where you grab for your seatbelt. I took the whole interior plastic cover off and seat belt off to get the old vinyl off, and the new vinyl on.
I called the place that SOLD me the vinyl, and they didn't know how to put it on. Typical company anymore. "We don't even know our names!". Anyways, the original vinyl was adhered with something, just on the little bit of vinycl that wrapped behind the plastic piece, not on the front part that you see. I'm assuming they used a tacky stuff, as opposed to a glue, because tacky stuff would keep the vinyl down while you worked on getting it in place. With glue, I'd have to hold it all down until it dried 10 hours later, then install it. Anyone do this before? Thanks, Jeff 1991 300d, 111k |
#2
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I would use 3m Super 77. It works really good for that kind of stuff. you can get it at any hardware store. Just read the directions on the can on how to use it.
Jon |
#3
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On the Super 77, just make absolutely sure you have the vinyl where you want it the first time, because you don't get second chances with this glue! Once it touches, it's stuck.
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-Josh Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time... |
#4
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UHH, They use the same stuff mentioned in the dwarf thread. Sounds like it's pretty good stuff. Apparently, once you use it to.."Stick something" you won't be "Getting it off", for some amount of time. It sounds like it's a "Little hard" to deal with though, and I also heard "It sucks for repairing a Hoover"
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#5
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3M General Trim Adhesive (#08088)
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83 300d - 390k |
#6
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There's:
3M General Trim Adhesive 3M Super Trim Adhesive (made for higher heat situations) I always use the Super - it rocks.
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- Brian 1989 500SEL Euro 1966 250SE Cabriolet 1958 BMW Isetta 600 |
#7
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Um.... I don't know if I really want to know about this "dwarf thread"!
About the Super 77, I would think that if you sprayed the vinyl, laying on a sheet of cardboard or the like, and sprayed the metal backing panel, you could then place the panel ON the vinyl, and slowly work from the middle inward, rubbing the vinyl down onto the metal. Cut a slit in the middle of the seatbelt slot, roll the vinyl around the edges there, and then spray a little on the back side of the metal along the edges, just to make sure the vinyl stuck. Then trim the vinyl beyond the edges of the metal (half an inch, less?), roll it over the edge, and you'd be done. I'm not an interior upholsterer, but I think this is how it was suggested when I was reading one of the upholstery repair books I'd checked out from the library. It was a while ago, though, for a car long since down the road. I haven't done this to my MB yet, but it's on my list of needed things. Like many other little projects...
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-Josh Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time... |
#8
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3M makes great stuff.
I have used contact cement (brush on, not spray)weld DAP brand. Apply to both materials evenly, let dry completely and press together.You'll have one chance to get it right also.
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1999 E300DT (131,800) 154,000 Black on Black SOLD 2006 CLK 500 coupe Capri Blue on Grey (zoom,zoom) 47,000mi 04 VW TDI Passat 80,000mi (Techno) How to eliminate oil dependency through market-driven approaches. “We could cut oil use in half by 2025, and by 2040, oil use could be zero,” The Sound of Diesel Speed Ode to MB |
#9
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I redid mine (82 300SD) using Pliobond brand industrial contact cement. Sticks like a champ, even where vinyl is stretched around corners. Only downside is a residual odor, which may take months to completely go away. I think you could hasten the process, though, if you leave the re-assembled parts in a hot and very well ventilated area for an extended period (weeks?). Obviously, the interior of the car doesn't work.
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#10
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Greetings,
From a member in another group. Martha (262,000 miles) needed a little cosmetic improvement on the interior as the door post vinyl was flapping in the wind and my wife bases her opinion on which car she wants to drive on how things look. So, it was time for the dreaded "vinyl replacement" task (I hate interior work - not my cup of tea cause my hands and fingers are made for chopping wood, not threading needles). But, we did it and the results can be seen at http://rides.webshots.com/album/560187720svCQnY It is a 4 to 6 hour job for each post which I spread over 3 days on the first post (learning curve issues) but the second post was a 6 hour job in one day - half the time is spent waiting for glue to dry. I tried to do the first post with the seat belt attached - mistake. Just pop the seat belt off (2 bolts) and remove the post entirely for fitting, gluing, and positioning. I got the vinyl with backing from Joann's (a fabric store for those of you who do not sew or embroider). I got a yard of material for $10 and could have gotten by with 1/2 yard, but for the price it made sense to get a full yard. The roll turns out to be just a little longer than the length of the post so no cutting on the length as it is a perfect fit. The post is tapered at the top (6") and wide at the bottom (11") so my first cut was a tapered piece - mistake - the post sides gain height in the middle. So the second piece was 11" wide from top to bottom and I trimmed excess off. Tools of the trade: your wifes sewing scissors; a box cutter or razor blade; spray on contact glue - I used Duro, but am thinking brush on might be better; fasteners - I used lots of small Acco clips because my glue really wasn't holding like Super Glue, it takes time to set. Today I am going to see if I can match and cut a piece for my drivers seat "the common wallet tear" problem as a temporary fix. The problem is I now have 1/2 year of vinyl and need to find things to do with it. Joann's has 5 to 10 colors, but I did not get an exact match. Close enough for me, but not if you are showing your car in competition. I am happy I got the fabric backed vinyl as it covers a multitude of sins. If you are laying straight vinyl which is thinner and affixed directly to the metal, you need to be much more careful. brian from la verne I hope this not plagiarism. Enjoy! daniel ... "Liesel" '84 300D Turbo |
#11
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Note the advantage of brush on adhesive is that you don't have to do the entire piece at once. You can start at the seat belt hole (effectively the center of the pillar), and once that's neatly secured, work outward in two or more smaller steps. That's what I did, and it looks great--nice and tight all around, no wrinkles. My only complaint is the smell of the Pliobond, which has now disappeared.
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