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  #31  
Old 07-31-2010, 08:29 PM
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The EGR computer is by the right kick panel. I ran the wire under the dash to the cluster. Plenty of room under there. I had a forum member pm me last week for help and he did get his tach working using this DIY.

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  #32  
Old 08-01-2010, 12:53 AM
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Thanks,

I figured it out. That was obvious now that I look back on it.

I had an interesting Day One of the tach addition. I obtained the tach, installed it in the cluster, and did the wiring. The tach is receiving signal (from .2V to 1V AC) depending on RPM, just like it should. However it is not receiving power from the EDIT: dedicated power cable. I soldered the power cable (same as in your diagram) to the same location as you did, but your cluster has things configured a little differently than mine. I suspect that I need to find another power source.

Also a problem... front + rear reading lights and clock power (red wire with spade connector) do not have Voltage. Gonna look into it tomorrow...
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Last edited by dantheman67; 08-01-2010 at 12:53 AM. Reason: Clarification
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  #33  
Old 08-01-2010, 07:47 PM
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I got it! Blown fuses, combined with the fact that my power wire hack was not delivering power. I fixed the power wire set up (it's now pulling 12V from the clock connector. I know, it's permanent 12v) and the tach works great.
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  #34  
Old 08-01-2010, 08:40 PM
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Congrats on getting the tach working! Having constant +12 to your tach, see if the tach registers while the starter cranks. That'd be a cool feature to have to check condition of your battery and starter.
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  #35  
Old 08-01-2010, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Congrats on getting the tach working! Having constant +12 to your tach, see if the tach registers while the starter cranks. That'd be a cool feature to have to check condition of your battery and starter.
It doesn't. Needle rests at zero while cranking and the first second of engine running, then comes to life. I checked the battery voltage too (for a different reason though)-- putting out little over 14V
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  #36  
Old 08-12-2010, 10:05 PM
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I can confirm that "EGR tach" works great in 240D. Thanks to OP!













Attached Thumbnails
DIY tach for 240D w EGR- easy!-w123tach_00.jpg   DIY tach for 240D w EGR- easy!-w123tach_01.jpg   DIY tach for 240D w EGR- easy!-w123tach_02.jpg   DIY tach for 240D w EGR- easy!-w123tach_03.jpg   DIY tach for 240D w EGR- easy!-w123tach_04.jpg  

DIY tach for 240D w EGR- easy!-w123tach_05.jpg   DIY tach for 240D w EGR- easy!-w123tach_06.jpg  

Last edited by whunter; 11-28-2011 at 11:39 PM.
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  #37  
Old 08-12-2010, 10:23 PM
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I do have an issue though- if I leave the car overnight, the clock will be way off in the morning. Once I set the clock however, it stays matched while driving. I think it's related to the fact that I tapped the clock constant 12V to power the tach, but I'm not sure. Anyone got ideas?
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  #38  
Old 08-12-2010, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dantheman67 View Post
I do have an issue though- if I leave the car overnight, the clock will be way off in the morning. Once I set the clock however, it stays matched while driving. I think it's related to the fact that I tapped the clock constant 12V to power the tach, but I'm not sure. Anyone got ideas?
Just tap in cigarette lighter wire for the switched 12V if you do not want to use OP method.
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  #39  
Old 08-12-2010, 11:01 PM
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The one sucky thing about having a 1977/1981 car...
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  #40  
Old 08-13-2010, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dantheman67 View Post
I do have an issue though- if I leave the car overnight, the clock will be way off in the morning. Once I set the clock however, it stays matched while driving. I think it's related to the fact that I tapped the clock constant 12V to power the tach, but I'm not sure. Anyone got ideas?
The single male spade terminal on the clock/tach combo is the powerr for the clock. All you have to do is plug the corresponding harness into the spade and your clock should work. The lower red wire is the tach signal from the EGR computer. The upper red wire that goes across and gets soldered is switched +12V that powers the tach.

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Last edited by funola; 08-13-2010 at 10:09 AM.
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  #41  
Old 08-13-2010, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by mike-81-240d View Post
The one sucky thing about having a 1977/1981 car...
Why? No EGR computer?
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83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
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  #42  
Old 08-13-2010, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Why? No EGR computer?
Correct neither the body ('81) nor the motor ('77).
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  #43  
Old 08-13-2010, 09:12 AM
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Correct neither the body ('81) nor the motor ('77).
You could take all the tach parts from a 300D turbo (mag pickup, tach amp, harness and tach/clock combo) and install it on your 240D. The only thing I'm unsure of is whether there are mounting holes for the mag pickup and whether the tooth trigger exist on the 77 harmonic balancer. If not, the job becomes harder. You have to add the tooth and figure a way to mount the mag pickup.
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  #44  
Old 12-01-2011, 04:10 PM
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Neat!

I just happened to have an old 300D Turbo cluster laying around that has the tach/clock combo. I had kept it for the speedo and fuel/temp/oil gauges. Now I can have a tach in my '82 240D 4-speed! Wooooohoooo!

kevin
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  #45  
Old 12-01-2011, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by arcticathlon View Post
i wish i could have done that to my 240D, but i have a 1980 without a EGR. i guess the only way i can have a tach on a manual 240D would have to be an engine change?
Nope -- you could attach an RPM sensor to the crank pulley or one of the injector lines (piezo sensor - actually measures the expansion of the pipe when the injector pump "fires" - very cool!)

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