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#61
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And my 240D is 1982 (Auto) Thanks |
#62
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Ahhh that connector! Use an ohmmeter to check the sensor, if around 80 ohms it's good. Clean the connector contacts and make sure sensor gap per FSM.
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__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#63
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Thanks again!! |
#64
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If the tach worked briefly it could be:
1. intermittent electrical contacts. clean them! 2. gap on pickup too large. set gap! 3. tach needle sticking. take the tach out and turn needle back and forth by hand a bunch of times!
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#65
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Thanks again for the answers. I did check the connections today and after that I checked the pickup I played with it a little but it was very messy there and hard to reach. I started to check for continuity and all that. I actually could tell the pickup was working by measuring the voltage between pins 2 and 4 this is the signal before it is amplified. The AC voltage reading was around 0.28mA at idle and it would reach up to 0.65mA when revving around 3000RPM ish. I was just getting desparate and thinking that something is wrong with the board which it was. While I was playing I saw the tachometer needle come up and I narrowed it down to an area circled in the picture. It seems like 1 or more of these 3 components seems to have a connection issue. I moved them around and flexed the board a little and could make it work for a short time and captured an image during test drive with tach working. I heard crunchy noises when I was moving these components. I will investigate more later, see if I can buy these components or they are too old to buy. Not even sure what they are. Thanks again for this very straight forward DIY. I will figure the rest out and stop clogging the forum with my obstacles
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#66
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I did this job on my '82. It works like a charm!
Many thanks to Funola for sharing his knowledge! |
#67
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The most common problem I find with these EGR/Tach units is bad solder joints. In all likelihood you just need to resolder some bad joints on the board. See the attached image for an example of a bad solder joint. The next most common problem is bad capacitors. The large can in your picture marked 220/16 is a 220uf (microfarad) 16 volt (dc) radial electrolytic capacitor. These are easy to find from websites like Digikey and Mouser. You can also likely find them at Radio Shack. Be advised they are polarized so take note of polarity. The positive terminal on your part is marked "+" A new replacement capacitor will be marked with a negative stripe. Take a picture beforehand. Higher voltage is fine but stick to the same value in microfarads. If the new part is electrically identical to the old it will be physically smaller in nearly every case. Not a problem - just progress. At this point I recap everything. Clocks are notorious for failure and delay wiper relays are known to fail as well. I have a Becker Europa on the bench with this problem. When one fails all are suspect. The parts are cheap and easy to install if you can solder. In any case since yours works you likely only need resoldering but I would recap while you're in there. Best of luck.
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1969 220D 5 Speed (OM616) 1983 240D 4 Speed 1985 300D Auto 376K 1985 300D Auto 275K |
#68
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Excellent! Did the 82 come with the EGR controller or did you have to source one from an 83?
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#69
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EGR in my '82 240D
It was right there where you said it would be. Same numbers.
My temp/pressure/fuel-level gauge was laid out slightly differently than your picture but the voltage-tap still worked. Thanks again! |
#70
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Subscribed .
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#71
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What year / model vehicle did you get your tach from?
This post is awesome - I really want to trade out the clock on my 83 240 for a tach. I've been looking at your post and it looks doable.
The questions I have are.... What year / model did your Tach come out of? I've been looking on ebay to pick up a tach and there seems to be some differences in the 81 - 85 300 tachs. Some seem to have two prong connector on the back and others seem to have three. What year / specific model vehicle did your donor tach come from? and Will any 300 td tach work? Does the clock on your new set up work? Which wires in the diagram are related to the clock? Thank you for the awesome post! |
#72
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Note: you must have the exact EGR controller pictured.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#73
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Now that I own an 85 300D and looking at the pics in this post from 2007, I recognize the connector of Pizzachef's "device" from his 85 300TD Euro has the same type of connector as the EGR controller on my 85 300D US. However, the EGR controller on my 85 has a black plastic casing that is bigger, more square in shape than the rectangular aluminum case pictured.
Does 85 300TD Euro have a tach?
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#74
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Thanks. Any chance of getting a rpm reading for say 60 and 70 mph? Just need a reference. You're the man
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#75
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You did the mod and have the tach working? I do not have the info you are looking for. Buy a photo tach (around $10 on Ebay) to calibrate it.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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