Ok, something I don't understand, based on reading the posts. I replaced the front shocks on my 1985 300D with new shocks. I removed wheel, undid the top mount, raised the car with a floor jack underneath the frame cross member. The hub/lower control arm with shock attached, came down. I removed shock, attached new shock at lower mount, reattached wheel, lowered jack (consequently raising the upper rod of the shock in to place). then attached the mountings. While the wheel was off, I observed the spring bulging a bit. On reading the shop manual, and Haynes manual, they seemed to indicate that it was the shock absorber itself that limits the downward displacement of the lower control arm, and in fact I should have left the wheel in place, supporting the lower control arm, or used the jack underneath the lower control arm with an axle stand placed somewhere. Could the lower control arm have lowered enough under this circumstance for the front mainspring to come loose, potentially injuring or killing me? Advice appreciated.

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Der Panzermann und Fraulein Fahrvergnuegen

1991 420SEL 201K "The Big Blue One"
1985 300DT 205K chassis/285K engine nee California emissions "Goldbug"
1983 300TDT 255K "The Womble"
1983 300 DT 214K "Sea Sprite"-Rear-ended a truck
1983 300SD 285K "The Donor" Gave his life so that others can live
1980 500SL Euro 105K "Der Panzer"

The shock limits the downward movement of the LCA, but, not unlimited. If the shock is removed, the LCA has an additional stop on the frame of the vehicle, otherwise it would have simply fallen all the way down to a point where the spring falls out. This won't happen.

You did the task properly. You cannot remove the shock from the upper mount unless you lower the LCA. The spring was in no danger of launching itself.

Thanks for the reassurance regarding my shock job!

Would the same considerations apply to the rear shock? Can I place the car on a ramp, release the upper shock release and then undo the bottom mounting. I honestly feel more comfortable working under the car when it is on ramps than jacked up, and, unlike the front shocks, releasing the back shocks requires going under the car.

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Der Panzermann und Fraulein Fahrvergnuegen

1991 420SEL 201K "The Big Blue One"
1985 300DT 205K chassis/285K engine nee California emissions "Goldbug"
1983 300TDT 255K "The Womble"
1983 300 DT 214K "Sea Sprite"-Rear-ended a truck
1983 300SD 285K "The Donor" Gave his life so that others can live
1980 500SL Euro 105K "Der Panzer"

I let the trailing arms fall and the shocks drop out of the upper mounts when I did them on the W-126. The problem I see with your procedure is the fact that the new shock will need to be compressed to get the two lower cap screws to start. That won't be an easy task.

You might prefer to let the trailing arms fall so the shocks fully extend. Then the removal and reinstallation is very simple. Make sure you remove the upper nuts before you raise the vehicle and let the trailing arms down.

Note, however, that the two brake lines might be stretched over the limit when the trailing arms are not restrained by the shocks. On the W-126, it's very close, but tolerable for a short period of time.

As I recall, I did the shocks, front and rear, with the wheels on the ground. Is this an issue? I need to do another set.

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

How on a 123 do you do the rear shocks with the wheels on the ground? I just did mine, and I'd say that's impossible.

Please, everyone chime in on this. I'm getting ready to do shocks on my 123 240 and would love to read everyone's experience. Total newb here.

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You're a daisy if you do.
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84 Euro 240D 4spd. 220.5k sold
04 Honda Element AWD
1985 F150 XLT 4x4, 351W with 270k miles, hay hauler
1997 Suzuki Sidekick 4x4
1993 Toyota 4wd Pickup 226K and counting

I'd also love to know where the safest jackstand points are front and rear on a 123.

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You're a daisy if you do.
__________________________________
84 Euro 240D 4spd. 220.5k sold
04 Honda Element AWD
1985 F150 XLT 4x4, 351W with 270k miles, hay hauler
1997 Suzuki Sidekick 4x4
1993 Toyota 4wd Pickup 226K and counting

I've done front and rear on a 123.
I did jack the car up after removing the top nuts, then removed the bottom nuts, installed in reverse order. Removed the front wheels.
The fronts need a thin walled 12 point 10mm socket, provided with the set of front shocks.
The rears I didn't remove the wheels, same procedure as the fronts. Biggest hassle in the back was removing the rear seat back to gain access to the upper nuts.
I use a floor jack on the engine cross member in front and the diff in the rear.
I put jack stands under the jack points.

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83 SD

84 CD