I need to change the tensioner shock on my 98 W210. My question is how do you take the tension off the spring to remove the bolt that anchors it? I know to put the lug wrench in the hole and apply pressure but it will not move until that bolt is all the way out. Am I just applying pressure so I can get the bolt out or for another reason?

TIA

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Muleears
'07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD
'04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K
'10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter
'02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again
'97 E300 Diesel Son's DD
'61 VERY tolerant wife

Hampton Roads, VA USA

Gone but not forgotten:
'67 250S 95K
'86 300SDL
'87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P.
'98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K
'02 S420, 164K
'01 Prius 138K

Take the nut off the back of the bolt that goes through the upper spring retainer. Using a 3/8" extension bar, rock the upper spring retainer to allow you to remove the bolt completely.

When you release the load on the 3/8" extension bar, the spring force is relaxed.

It's been a while since I took the tensioner apart on mine to replace the idler roller, but, do you actually need to release the belt tension to replace the damper? Isn't it just a case of releasing the upper and lower through bolts?

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1998 W210 diesel (wiped out by a texter)
Baum spring compressor "for rent"

The bottom bolt is behind the water pump pulley. I need to rotate the arm upwards so I can back the bolt all the way out. Thanks for the clarification.

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Muleears
'07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD
'04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K
'10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter
'02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again
'97 E300 Diesel Son's DD
'61 VERY tolerant wife

Hampton Roads, VA USA

Gone but not forgotten:
'67 250S 95K
'86 300SDL
'87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P.
'98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K
'02 S420, 164K
'01 Prius 138K

Yes, and if you are VERY lucky you can extract that bolt without having to remove the fan. On my car it was the tightest of fits. I have heard on some it is impossible to remove without the extra step. It would have been better to grind off a thread or two of the bolt before I put it back in to help it fit and come out easier the next time but I didn't do it...FYI

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Yeah, I'll agree with Marty. There is no way that bolt was coming out on my car without additional disassembly. It would be too easy, otherwise

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1998 W210 diesel (wiped out by a texter)
Baum spring compressor "for rent"

Easy to get the bottom bolt out on mine. Yes it rubs against the flywheel, but not enough to cause any damage bar minor scraping.

Oh by the way, if you're replacing the shock it might be a good idea to have a new spring ready. Mine snapped off while driving.

I'd strongly agree with the suggestion about the new spring...I put one in as PM when I did the dampner on mine and kept the old one in the trunk just in case...it's not an expensive part nor hard to change on the side of the road but one that can leave you stranded if it fails.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

The lower bolt on my damper shock backs out *just* enough on mine to get the damper off. You do have to rotate it down below the lip of the waterpump/fan pulley.

If yours won't, try tightening it up again and filing 1mm off the end of the bolt sticking through the other side then give it another go.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I just bought a 95 300 diesel and after 800 miles there is a squeeking which I am 90% sure is the tensioner. I've been reading some threads here and got some tips on the best way to replace and I was thinking I would replace all the parts including the shock.

How much can I expect to spend in parts and is there any one component that I can get away with not replacing (spring)?

The spring doesnt usually make noise other than a vibration sound caused by a bad damper shock or other component.

Costs can be found n the buy parts tab above but are roughly:
spring $30
damper $60
roller pulley $60?
pivot arm $100

If the insides of the pivot arm wear, it can squeak as can bad sealed bearings on the roller pulley or a failing bushing on the damper shock.

You can confirm by dropping tension on the belt and running the COLD engine for 30 secs to see if the sound disappeared, if so then spin the roller pulley by hand to see if it is the cause. If not, spin every other accessory pulley by hand.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I am getting a terriple ratteling sound. When I put a pry bar underneath the tensioner shock and pry upward, the sound goes away, completely. I was wondering if I could take the top bolt out of that tensioner shock and turn the tube, would that shorten the tube, therefore, being the equivilant of the pry bar.

Thanks