HVAC Vacuum Pod Test Procedure Question
 

Hello Everybody,

I've been having a blast over the last few days taking my dash apart to get to the vacuum pods. It is actually pretty cool in there. So I have the dash out now and I've began to test the vacuum pods (big pink things I assume). So I've tested three of these pods. The one to the left of the pass seat holds pressure on both lines (both red) for as long as I want. The two located directly behind the glove box that share a red and a green vacuum line is where I think I may have problems with. When I apply vacuum to where the red lines would go into the pods the pressure drops. It builds up while i'm pumping then slowly releases out (nothing appears to happen). When I apply pressure to where the green lines plug into the pressure holds fine and the flap opens up.

So my question is this: does this mean that the pod(s) are bad or am I missing what I am actualy supposed to be testing???

Thanks For Any Help,
Matt

Sounds like you are doing it right.

The 2 pods behind the glove box and slightly to the right are for the re-circulation flaps on the 126 SDL I think. They are on my 86 SDL.

They are what they call duel chamber pods. Thus the reason for the 2 lines going to them.

Assuming you did a vacume check directly to the pods and not through the vac lines,(you could have a bad hose or connector) I would guess one of the chambers in the duel chambered pods is shot since one holds vac and one does not.

I think you can get a rebuild kit for the single pods but, I've heard some doubts that the duel chamber pods are rebuildable . Some say you can and some say you can't. That really helps right ?

Somebody sells the rebuild kits. George Murphy rings a bell.

That is correct
The single hose actuator takes one 2010 diaphragm
The dual hose actuator takes a 2010 and a 2020 diaphragm.
If you need to replace ALL the diaphragms in the 126 models, you will need 6-2010 and 3-2020 diaphragms

The parts are $6.00 each plus S&H
They accept Visa/MC . . .



Performance Analysis Co.
969 Oak Ridge Turnpike, Suite 258
Oak Ridge, TN 37830

865-482-9175 9 am to 5 pm ET M-F
FAX 865-482-9175

Your dash is out. Replace all the elements (what you call pods) while your there. Also replace any rubber connectors used to connect the vacuum hard lines.

Dave

Yeah I think that is probably the best idea.

I read someplace about a special tool to take the elements apart so that you don't break them. (UPDATE: I called the place and they sell the tool for $10.95 so I bought one) Does anybody know about this???
Also I can only see three elements. I understand there is one burried inside the big black box (couldnt recall its name) are there any more??? I seem to recall 5 for some reason.

Thanks,
Matt

The SDL has six vacuum elements. The two that are behind the glove box control the main/recirc air flap. They are dual elements and they must hold vacuum in both chambers or you need to replace them. The replacement diaphragms won't provide sufficient travel.

There is a third dual diaphragm to the very left side of the glove box and it points downward on an angle. That's the defrost element and it also must hold vacuum in both chambers.

There are three single diaphragm elements that operate the center vents, the "scoop", and the footwell flaps. Two of them are behind the CCU. You'll need to remove the CCU to see them. The center vent element is the one on the right and the most difficult to access. Hopefully, it will hold vacuum because you really don't want to remove it (unless the dash is off). The one on the left is the footwell element.

The final element is the scoop and it's to the right of the driver's right foot. It's also a single element actuator and will probably be OK.

I found the tool to be hit or miss depending on the pod and patience. I think taking them apart with a small flathead screwdriver is fine as well. They aren't so tight that taking each tab off causes unnecessary stress on still attached tabs.

I've never thought much of that "tool"...........

Just get one tab to barely release (with the other three engaged) and then............carefully..........get #2 to barely release..........now the cover will move a bit more.............and #3 and #4 will be no issue.