replace the caliper.


it'll cost anywhere from $30-80 after core return, usually.

__________________
-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)

You might be able to fix it with a new seal and boot. You won't know until you get the pistons out and inspect the pistons and bores. If either is scored, pitted or excessively rusted, the caliper should be replaced. If the piston is just "gunked up," a new seal and boot might be all you need.

What ever you do to one side of the axle should be done on the other.

Try a soft rubber mallet and hit the face of the piston or a small hammer against the old pad laying against the face......do not touch or damage the sides of the piston. If it is dislodged it should spin freely in the cylinder clockwise or counterclock wise. Truefully...even if it can be dislodged the scouring from the rust will ruin the seal and cause it to leak....the caliper cylinders should be honed and rebuilt to be safe.

__________________
FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K

It's a little tough to hone an opposed, dual piston caliper. How do you do it?

Your right.....forgot we were talking about MB rears. The best you could do is clean the cylinders and pistons up with some fine steel wool.....if not replace the whole caliper.

__________________
FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K

It's cheaper and more conducive to if you replace.

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

Should I replace both sides?

Yep, brakes, tires, and suspention work in pair...

Good luck, it shouldnt be too bad
~Nate

__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

Alright, thanks everybody. I'll go down to good ol' fps autoparts here in Sacramento and pick up two calipers, rear pads and maybe some grease and then the fun begins.

Keep us posted.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

well, took awhile to get the Cardone ATEs calipers. I don't have time to buy them from Mercedes shop although the price looked fair. I paid $89 after calling around - I was quoted 149 from Carquest! I know I could have gotten them cheaper online, but I need to get it road ready asap. I've gotten one caliper off and took it in for CORE return.

Question: On the calipers there are two holes. One for the hose - and what's the other one? On my old caliper it was closed off with a small device. On this one it has a silver screw with an opening on the top. Shouldn't they have included something to cover it up, or does it let air out or something?

The second hole is for the bleeder valve. Did you already exchange your old calipers?

So should it have a seal on it when I'm not bleeding or does it work some other way? I haven't exchanged them yet - haven't really started yet, although I did try to get the brake hose out, but had some trouble because I was twisting the brake line above it/connected to it. Anyone know the best method of taking the brake hoses off?

unless your bleed valve is perfect you should consider buying a new one.

Tom W

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The best method of removing the brake hoses is to remove the hose from the brake line first. Then, the entire caliper and hose is free of the vehicle so that you can easily remove the hose from the caliper.........on a workbench.

But, this method is fraught with risk for a new mechanic who has not previously cracked that brake hose from the brake line. There is significant risk of rounding the nut and/or twisting the brake line.

So, I might suggest that you attempt to loosen the hose from the caliper while the brake hose remains connected to the brake line. It's not the most pleasant task, but it can be done. The biggest problem with this approach is the fact that you cannot use a box wrench and must suffer with an open end wrench. It's possible that the result will be a rounded brake hose...........however, if you apply a bit of heat to the caliper with a propane torch, you'll free up the threads so that you have a chance of success with the open end wrench. Try not to force the open end wrench so hard that you round the flats on the brake hose. Also, sometimes a sharp rap with a hammer will have the desired effect.........when greater and greater torque just rounds the flats.

If you start to round the brake hose, post again and we can talk you through the procedure to remove the brake hose from the brake line.