I'll bet those bolts in there with red loctite or something. That'd explain why you could break allen sockets on them.

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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

They are in there w/blue loctite.

I do not see the need for the loctite. My 4x4 truck has the same type rotor to hub set up. No loctite there.

I have my flame suit on now...When I replaced the rotors on the MB, I did not use more loctite...that was last fall, or 20,000 miles ago. No issues.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

No red loctite - it was blue. The bolts were just seized in there really good. As I said, the oxy-acet torch motivated the bolts to come loose in a jiffy :-)

I think this is one of those things you do just to better be safe than sorry. Your looking at the bolt in your hand that you don't want to see again for 60k miles. You know its not going to come out if you torque it right. But the consequences of it coming out really suck, so might as well toss the loctite on a CYA basis. This is why MB specs it Im sure.

Back before I was so interested in fixing cars I was a pro musician traveling during breaks in college. Van (modified Ford E150) had a flat tire. No time to deal with, I had a gig. Foruntately I was already in the venue parking lot and not in a rush. Called AAA, they came and fixed it. I didn't get back to the van till 3 am.

300 miles down the road the next day, notice by dumb luck that one of the lug nuts had fallen out, the lug bolt from the hub was sheared off, and three of the other lug nuts were loose.

The dude never tightened my lug nuts!!!! The wheel falling off, would have, well, sucked.

So to me, the action of loctite-ing is an extra mental step to insure that everything is back in its right place, and is there to stay.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

I can see that, but I do not see the need for even bolting a brake rotor to a wheel bearing hub, when said rotor is sandwiched between the wheel and the hub, unless the engineers were trying to make a two piece rotor/hub assemble emulate a single piece hub/rotor like found on older RWD American cars.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

A weak loctite will act as a sealant and keep the bolt's threads from rusting in the hole.

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Ron Schroeder
'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY

Ah, I see says the blindman. I did not add loctite, nor did I remove it when I did my rotor change out. I did not use anti-sieze either.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

The small bolt which holds the brake disc onto the hub doesn't have a great structural role to play.

As mentioned above, the disc is really firmly clamped by the wheel bolts. All the small bolt does is to stop the brake disc moving around, potentially getting dirt on the mating surfaces while the wheel is off for servicing.

When re-fitting these, I use some anti seize grease, and I don't put them in particularly tight - little more than a nip.