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#16
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Quote:
Then, get a 5 gallon plastic container and a length of hose (3/8" ID should do it). Then get a pipe nipple that will fit the hose and attach it with a hose clamp. You'll also likely need a 46mm or 1 13/16" socket. If you get lucky, you can do the job without it, but, don't count on it. You'll need a new screen and a new o-ring (comes with the screen). Underneath the vehicle, almost directly above the axles, will be two rubber hoses. One hose is connected to the tank screen. It's got the large 46mm hex nut that's right up flush with the body. Get your container ready. Remove the hose clamp that secures the hard line to the hose (the one that goes to the tank screen). Pull the hose off the hard line and quickly insert the hose into the pipe nipple that you made in the second step. The opposite end of this hose needs to be in the five gallon container. Get out from underneath the vehicle and have a beer. Wipe off the fuel that's dribbling all down your arm. Return to vehicle and remove container..........full of fuel. Remove slave fuel hose from actual fuel hose. Remove actual fuel hose by removing fitting that's attached to the tank screen (14mm.....??). If you are lucky, the tank screen will rotate and come out of the tank with the hose attached. If you are not lucky, the tank screen will remain in the tank and the fitting will come off the screen. Now, you'll need the socket. Place the socket on the 46mm hex and use a pipe wrench to rotate it. Don't even think about a socket wrench (3/4") because there is no room for it. Reinstall the new screen using the 46mm socket. Don't go wild with the torque.........it's aluminum with only two threads. Reinstall the hose (might be a good time to replace the hose.........and it's fraternal brother on the return side.........) Connect the hose to the hardline and reinstall the hose clamp. Pour the fuel back into the tank. Done. |
#17
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Thanks, I'll keep that in my back pocket.
I'm going to replace the filters tomorrow. I'll see how that goes. I will also check the vacuum check valve. If neither works, I'll check the screen.
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1982 300SD 1967 250S ...what was I thinking...... |
#18
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Run fuel tank as low as you can, remove fuel hose from bottom of tank, be prepared for a mess, use this maybe http://www.instawares.com/caster-wrench-flat.142-1367.0.7.htm or another suitable wrench on that big nut, may have to bend to reach, you'll see, swap out with a new one, or clean the old one. Reinstall in reverse order. Inspect condition of hose, if you're going to replace, do so now.
To check the vent, as mentioned, it is located under the car near the rear axle drivers side, there is a line going from a bell shaped "thing". Run a coat hanger to dislodge ant debris. To change fuel lines under hood, you'll see two lines near firewall, drivers side. Metal from under car, then rubber going to/from filter, swap 'em around. Good luck.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#19
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Quote:
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#20
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dmtinker,
The strainer fitting may come out by turning the 17 or 19mm fuel line nut. It worked for me. P E H |
#21
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To check the vent, do you pull the line from the tank and attach it to a hand vacuum pump? If the vent is good the pump gauge will not build up... and if it is bad the gauge will accumulate vacuum?
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83 300SD (Pepe) 03 Golf TDI (Sandy) Both running on B100 |
#22
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I changed the filters on Saturday and will let you know how it runs. I have not had a chance to check the vent or screen. I did want to say that the primary filter (small one?) had what looked like coffee grounds in it. I suspect it's rust. My fuel cap (which is only 6 weeks old) is rusted and so it the throat leading down to the tank in a few small spots. Should the cap be rusty after only 6 weeks?
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1982 300SD 1967 250S ...what was I thinking...... |
#23
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That sounds like it would work. I haven't followed the line to the tank.
__________________
83 SD 84 CD |
Bookmarks |
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