Wow, I almost want to drive up and see that thing. There is no way 1000 were imported into the US. There were only 1800 w116 6.9s imported total IIRC. I'm really intrigued by this, gonna throw a post up in the tech section, maybe someone has some answers.

True, they will last that long, but have you ever looked at the light output graph of a white LED? Still work for 50,000 hours perhaps, but at a few hundred, the light output has significantly decreased.

We produced a binary (and patented) LED PRNDL light for the Corvette C-5, was a yellow and blue LED array that produced white light without the phosphor burn-out problems so that we could meet the output specs over time, none of the white LEDs at the time came close. LEDs also decrease light output as the junction heats up during use.

If someone is producing a drop-in 2-color LED array that puts out white light, I'm buying, but I haven't found one yet. I won't rely on the light output of phosphor.

Whats a "We produced a binary (and patented) LED PRNDL " binary led. Aren't all LED's binary?

Very interesting reading http://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/ssl/printable_versions/life_measuring.html

LED's of 2010 are eons improved from even 2007.

I can sure understand the old ones degrading (>2006) if you were running
20ma LED's at 75ma but under normal current of 20ma or less I
have not found degrading at all. Some of my tests have run different
LED's for 60/90 days, 24 hours a day at RATED current or less.

Current was controlled with an LM317 circuit at 19ma on 20ma units.
A pair of those controlling V and A in the automotive world is quite
feasible.

Never over-current / over driven.

What test method are you using and what are the numbers that you're getting? We had a fully instrumented lab, engineers and scientists, actually designed LEDs from the junction up. The packaging and heat transfer has changed, but the basic technology and materials available are the same.

I have not read all the other posts but If you put an LED in the No Charging Light I am thinking your Alternator might not charge correctly.
Is the fact of fiction?

Fact, depending on the year.

I've been replacing the bulbs inside my W123 300TD. I replaced the two illumination bulbs in the cluster (also foil-taped the bulb chamber). Wow. Big difference. Then I started changing out the smaller bulbs in the cluster for the indicator lights. This was trickier as the bulbs are soldered into a little plastic socket that twists on to the circuit board and locks into place. I hand soldered LEDs from ledlights.com into these holders. I did not do the battery indicator light yet; it was a different size.

All the indicators are a little brighter now. The turn signal indicators are almost too bright! BLINK. BLINK. BLINK.

I also replaced the climate control lights with LEDs. Those bulb holders were cracked up from the heat. Next up, I want to retrofit an LED into the spider optic cable for the buttons above the climate control. I tried an LED but it was not side firing and so put very little light into the cables. After that, I'll look at the shifter and window buttons. Then they should all match. I don't like the mismatch of LED and incandescent.

As it is, the LEDs look great, especially with blue interior. I've got LEDs in the dome lights as well. I've started on exterior lights. It's an entertaining project. But the dash improvement is fantastic.

babymog... Just basic test gear as I dont make LED's. Dual trace, spectrum meter, digital light meter ect.

marfa300td .. I do hope you added a resistor along with your new Led's.

This is an awesome thread. Thanks guys.

I had wondered about the use of LEDs in our older benz and this is great to read. I will update when I get a chance to do this.

Anyone had any luck with a red LED in the gauge cluster... i have bought a few different ones locally and nothing seems to be bright enough.

And now we know the true story behind the Marfa lights !!! :D



.

I just added LED's to my dash... I didn't buy bulbs that drop in though... I replaced the "fiber optic" pieces with PCB and soldered LED's on the end.... I have some pics online... crappy from my phone but you get the idea... The picture makes them look darker than they really are... Not bad for $5.50 + tax and an hour of my time to "prototype" this...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zJ81Z2mdzc4/S8...00421-0219.jpg

More of a write-up on supeturbodiese in this thread http://superturbodiesel.com/std/led-instrument-panel-lights-installed-t-1293.html

Please explain this!

THanks,

Glenn

My idea leans on the side of non-traditional...so please take that in mind.

I was curious if anyone tried using the UV-light bulbs over at Super Bright LED's. I was thinking of painting the numbers and lines in UV paint that way it will glow the color I was shooting for. Might add a few colors, such as red for empty tank and/or red for the tach. Blue for everything else. I have seen people use blue LEDs for the instrument lights. I think it looks good but the issue is that it kind of makes everything blue. I just want the numbers and lines to glow not my whole instrument cluster.

Anyone try something like this or think it might work? I figured I would try it out on a piece of translucent overhead projector sheet to sea