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  #31  
Old 11-18-2007, 09:09 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Concord, MA
Posts: 603
A few comments.....Safety First!!!

Just remember, all the creative ways we may think of to raise up a car have been thought of and tried before...and many people have been killed!

- those pits you used to see in old service stations were outlawed because they accumulate fuel and oil, and are a fire hazard...many people were burned to death. Also, these pits are confined spaces which accumulate heavy fuel vapors. (above posts touched on these hazards)

- DO NOT dig a temporary trench 3 or 4 feet deep, and then lay down in it to remove a tranny! Many people have been buried to death in trench collapses...I forgot the weight of soil...a cubic foot weighs well over a hundred pounds. If you are going to build a pit...do it right with concrete walls, etc. (but beware of above hazards)

- Jack stands....jack stands are great if you keep two wheels solidly on the ground...best if rear wheels are on the ground with parking brakes set...if front wheels are on the ground, chock them.

- I have in the past had a car up off the ground on four jack stands, but NOT to crawl under!!! This is very precarious! when a car is on four jack stands, you can easily shake the car and knock it off with one hand!

- Ramps or blocks are best, or a combination of two ramps and two jack stands.

- If you need rotation of wheels (depending on the type of repair), do two wheels at a time, with two wheel solidly on the ground or on blocks (with the two wheels chocked or brakes set, as appropriate)

- If you absolutely need the car high up off the ground in order to crawl under, only do it if you are ABSOLUTELY SURE that the car will be stable. Maybe build some blocks out of pressure treated planks (4 or 6 inch thick) and attach pieces so that each block forms a large platform (2' x 2', or so) using those galvanized steel plates you find at Home Depot with joist hangers, ties, straps, etc. I have a set that I made, with rope handles ....I use them all the time. Lift each corner of the car in succession with a jack, and slide the blocks under. If you need to go high, you can build two or three sets of blocks and slide them under in succession...you will need a fifth set for a jacking surface. ALSO, if you need to go up high make sure lower blocks are wide enough (2 1/2 x 2 1/2 ', at least), otherwise, the car will be unstable. On the top blocks that will be in contact with the wheels, attach wooden chocks so car can't roll off.

Good Luck, dont take chances here...none of use are immune to being crushed!

Mark

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  #32  
Old 11-18-2007, 09:17 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Shawano, WI
Posts: 692
Those of you that use metal ramps, how do you keep them from sliding on the smooth concrete garage floor? I have tried rubber mats, roofing shingles, cable secured to ramp and placed so drive wheels go over the cable. So far, the only way I can use them is on my rough concrete apron.

Butting 2x4's against the garage wall won't work for me, too much stuff around the walls!

John
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  #33  
Old 11-18-2007, 12:36 PM
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Location: Sylvan Lake, Alberta,CANADA (1.5 hr from Calgary)
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Jack her onto the ramps.
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  #34  
Old 11-18-2007, 12:44 PM
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Related: I belong to an internet Wanderlodge motorhome forum. One owner on that forum purchased his bus from the widow of the unfortunate man upon whom it fell, after not being adequately supported.
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  #35  
Old 11-19-2007, 12:34 AM
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Location: NE Okla
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The really best answer here usually gets ruled out because the garage ceiling height can not handle the amount of vertical lift involved. Build the garage with a four poster or hydraulic lift designed in and most of the safety issues go away, but you have to have high ceilings. Thankfully my building at an old military facility has an air over oil grease rack!!!
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  #36  
Old 11-19-2007, 02:49 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicagoland
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We've got this in our garage at home. Works awesome, but isn't a cheap investment
http://www.doublepark.net/

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