No but there could be an imperfection causig a leak.

It could be just loose, you have to tighten them pretty aggressively to get a good seal. They will take more torque than you would think.

I would try tightening it more. If you don't have a high quality wrench on it it might just bend the jaws apart and let it slip off.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

No seal there. I would look for a replacement hard line from the wrecking yard if you have one near by. It would be a cheap and easy way to see if that changes things. The return lines are the usual cause of fuel leaks, I would make double darn sure thats not your problem before doing anything drastic.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Are the replacement return lines diesel rated? If not then get diesel rated hose for these because the diesel will destroy gas rated hose and you WILL have leaks.

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1983 300SD
200000miles

I worked in a fuel injection shop; they had a Bosch hand swedging machine. You put the injector fuel line tubing into the die jaws than you turned the 4 FOOT LONG T handle that screwed down onto the end of the tubing (it also had a special die in it) and you squashed the tubing to form what you are calling the flare. Even with this special tool and the leverage of the long T handle its takes a lot of effort to swedg the end onto the steel tubing. The next problem is that about 1 out of 20 will crack right above where they were swedged after a few months. It is not that good of a tool as it work hardens the tubing.
Most fuel injection shops prefer to buy the flared ends and braze them onto the tubing with a good quality silver solder.
You also have to use tubing that is made for the job. There are both different ID and OD tubing’s as different styles of tubing ends where they seal at the injector and fuel injection pump (also different nuts).
In short you cannot go to you local auto parts and buy the tubing.
NAPA maybe?
It would be possible to buy the tubing, nuts and tubing ends and silver solder them yourself. You would most likely be able to get them from a large fuel injection shop. Internet? I have never done a search.
I worked in a fuel injection shop; they had a Bosch hand wedging machine. You put the injector fuel line tubing into the die jaws than you turned the 4 FOOT LONG T handle that screwed down onto the end of the tubing (it also had a special die in it) and you squashed the tubing to form what you are calling the flare. Even with this special tool and the leverage of the long T handle its takes a lot of effort to swedg the end onto the steel tubing. The next problem is that about 1 out of 20 will crack right above where they were swedged after a few months. It is not that good of a tool as it work hardens the tubing.
Most fuel injection shops prefer to buy the flared ends and braze them onto the tubing with a good quality silver solder.
You also have to use tubing that is made for the job. There are both different ID and OD tubing’s as different styles of tubing ends where they seal at the injector and fuel injection pump (also different nuts).
In short you cannot go to you local auto parts and buy the tubing.
NAPA maybe?
It would be possible to buy the tubing, nuts and tubing ends and silver solder them yourself. You would most likely be able to get them from a large fuel injection shop. Internet? I have never done a search.