Newbie question.....

Went in today for an alignment. Was told I need a new left outer tie rod end.

I think I have a whole tie rod assembly spare part at the house. (doesn't it fit left or right)

I think the part has the tie rod ends come out of the whole assembly which is what the mechanic said he could do.

Do I have what I need, and should I have them replace the whole assembly, or should I try to do it over the weekend, and take it back to the shop next week for the alignment.

Thanks in advance.

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

I think there are different left and right tie rod assemblies but the difference might just be the direction of the threads. Seems to me you could use a right tie rod on the left. Just have to remember which way to turn the rod to adjust. How difficult can that be?

You won't be able to use just the tie rod end from your spare tie rod if the threads don't match the existing rod.

Sixto
87 300D

I think I follow that....

I may try to go with it, I think they were going to charge $40 for the tie rod end, which looks to be only around $15 or so, that way if they can use mine, I am out $0. It came with the car from the PO.

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

For my 126 they are the same you can by the ends Separately but i got the whole assembly for both sides for $20 new from ebay (not the B.S. brand)
i say change them both and take a look at your center drag link. Oh you will need an alignment. (dont go to dealership. Dont ask how i know)

same for 123...it's only LCA and UCA that have an L and R side

no point on replacing ends..just do the whole rod.

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1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD
1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project)
2007 Pinarello F3:13
1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff)
1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD)

Agreed, might as well. You need to remove one end anyway.

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83 SD

84 CD

What are the chances that one side is worn out and the other side isn't?

great info an good points. I should get all the work done now, but funds are low.

The Windstar (not in my sig) was just in the shop.


I think I will ask them to do the whole assembly

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

Unknown, yet replacing one end this year, the other next year, what's the point? You'll need an alignment after both.

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83 SD

84 CD

Your mech probably found a torn boot or worn bearings giving the rod a loose, rattle-ly feeling.

If you just got the car, it is wise to do the whole front end steering deal, L, R, C (drag link), and the damper (shock).

Tools needed: small ball peen hammer, pickle fork, box wrenches, torque wrench, sockets, shop rags.

Following threads elsewhere in the forum, you can do the whole deal yourself in about 45 minutes, placing the car on a solid, flat surface on jackstands (NOT jacks) or ramps.

Also follow threads on inspecting the steering gear to which all this stuff gets attached, and, if needed, how to adjust.

With all that changed out, and a four wheel alignment (about $90 here), your CD will be good to go for a long time. Otherwise there may be safety issues and certainly uneven tire wear.

Good luck.

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FRANKNBENZ

1985 300D "Old Blue" 265,000 (parts car )
1985 300D "Gray Ghost" 245,000
1985 300D "Silver Bullet" 160,000
1975 914 VW/Porsche "BC Car" 125,000
2010 Prius "Shocking!" 60,000
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I had a 123 aligned, front only, at Firestone for $65. A four wheel at Sears, $95.

I have heard from an MB dealership mechanic, the steering damper...shock, is not necessary to swap out.

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83 SD

84 CD

I wouldnt have my car aligned anywhere but the dealership. I doubt any chain has the right tools to do the job right. Anything else is just a good guess.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

spugeddy.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just replace what is necessary. The only difference in the inside and outside ends is that one has a LH thread and other has a RH thread.

Most important part of the tie rod for longevity is the rubber boot. It holds the grease in and keeps the dirt out. If the boot goes bad, replace immediately or U will be replacing the tie rod end soon.

Want to make your tie rods and ball joints last forever: grease them. Every 25,000 miles I grease mine with a hypodermic type grease needle and mine are 27 years old with almost 300,000 miles on them. I have replaced some of the boots but none of the joints.

P E H

The dealership would not touch the front of the SD without replacing everything first.

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83 SD

84 CD

Well, at least you have a wide spectrum of opinions on this subject...

The operative phrase recently quoted was "If it ain't busted..." Quite true, but this assumes a level of technical expertise in determining, by inspection, "If it ain't busted..." or nearly so.

The two silver cars in my signature pic were purchased from others. In MD there is a strict tech inspection of used vehicles of about 120 points prior to authorizing registration and plates. One flunked a tie rod end. I got it up on ramps and found the end boot torn and, when firmly gripping the rod and jerking in all directions heard the fatal clacking noise of bearing failure.

I checked out pricing of the four replacement parts here at Fastlane and other sites, and, ensuring I selected OEM or better quality, purchased and installed them. My indie 4-wheel alignment rate is $90 using the fancy computer gear that provides a printout showing before and after numbers. Since the rear was within tolerance, the guy only charged me $65 for the front (where the parts were replaced). Nice and honest shop will get my business again. Car tracks true.

The final question is whether you are up to it. Parts inspection and replacement is an easy DIY; alignment should be done on a newer geek rig.

Follow threads to R & R, cleaning as you go, applying proper torque per spec, and your SD will track just fine.

Good luck.

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FRANKNBENZ

1985 300D "Old Blue" 265,000 (parts car )
1985 300D "Gray Ghost" 245,000
1985 300D "Silver Bullet" 160,000
1975 914 VW/Porsche "BC Car" 125,000
2010 Prius "Shocking!" 60,000
Text Message only: 301-728-1115