Hello,

Need some help.

I am trying to renew the fuel tank line as perventative maintenence. However it has a big silver nut that threads into the tank, and then the fuel hose which threads into the big silver nut. At first try the 19mm fuel hose hex turns WITH the big silver nut probably about 40mm diameter.

EDIT: I think that the big silver nut is the strainer. How do I hold that still, while removing the 19mm nut? Thanks.
Any ideas, whats the proper tool to use, etc?

Also I was using a siphon hose that has the ball bearing in the end, that you move up and down to prime the siphon hose. However upon removing the hose, the siphoning part fell into the fuel tank. OOPS!

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

Here is a picture. Also what tool is best to loosen the 19mm on the fuel line?

I cant seem to get the picture to work.

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

a pair of properly adjusted channel locks should hold the strainer still while you attempt to loosen the fuel line tube nut as they are called. For any tube nuts you should always use a line wrench NOT AN OPEN END wrench the line wrench has more points of contact making it much less likely to round off the nut. When deciding what groove to use on the channel locks you will want the one that makes the jaws almost parallel when they are clamped onto the strainer.

__________________
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins - Georend fully built trans, Banks Big Hoss Bundle, Smarty Tuner, 5" turbo back exhaust. 500 HP and 1100 ft/lbs to the ground.
1979 Mercedes-Benz 300CD - Lost to a four car pile up on 275, Thank You Michigan Drivers.
1986 Mercedes-Benz 300D - Sold, Euro non-turbo car.

It just seems like a special tool is required.

I tried a flare nut wrench, but the clearance was too tight. I tried an open end, but it looked liked it would slip.

I used a box end from the HAZET VW drain plug too.

http://www.samstagsales.com/images/hz2567-1.jpg

But then the strainer started to turn.

I can try getting the channel locks up there, but its tight.

I tried to pull out the siphon tube, and the metal piece is now in the TANK....

http://cgi.ebay.com/SUPER-SIPHON-HOSE-BASEMENTS-GAS-OIL-WATER-LIKE-MAGIC_W0QQitemZ300163844894QQihZ020QQcategoryZ303QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

Yeah it is going to be pretty tough, I dont know if you have ever tried breaking loose any old brake tube nuts before but I can imagine it will be just as "fun". Try this. Go out and buy some PB Blaster and spray it down and let it sit for a few hours, come back and spray it one more time, let it sit another hour. then try and break it loose. If that doesn't work one trick i learned from brakes over the years is that sometimes Positive breakaway torque is needed to free up a line. Positive breakaway torque is just trying to tighten it further. Once you break it free this way it is easier to loosen it since now all you have to overcome is the thread friction not it being siezed up and the thread friction.

__________________
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins - Georend fully built trans, Banks Big Hoss Bundle, Smarty Tuner, 5" turbo back exhaust. 500 HP and 1100 ft/lbs to the ground.
1979 Mercedes-Benz 300CD - Lost to a four car pile up on 275, Thank You Michigan Drivers.
1986 Mercedes-Benz 300D - Sold, Euro non-turbo car.

I tried the pos. break away torque and it spins the strainer also.

You know whats funny: I did my dads 87 300D rear fuel tank lines without problem (I didnt see a strainer though).

Then I tried my brother's and had all the above troubles....weird?

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

I just looked at my '87 a couple of days ago; it should be possible to remove the strainer and the hose with its tube nut together and separate them on the work bench.

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

And then, how to you tighten up the strainer? back into the tank?

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

We took the strainer and fuel line out as an assembly. We removed the fuel tank to retreive the super siphon pieces, and then put it all back together using some DIESEL RTV on the strainer o ring. Strainer looked good, oring was kinda flattened, but we fixed that with the DIESEL RTV.

Took the sender out with some KNIPEX flat jaw pliers, worked great.

New fuel lines somehow makes the car run much better. I have no idea why.....

Thanks for the comments and help. Kind regards.

BTW, I got 10-19MM Flare nut crowfoot set from NAPA for $20. Great price, snap on is about 200, but with something you rarely use like that, I think the NAPA will serve me until I can afford the snapon bits.

Thanks...
Austin

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.