problem-glowplug cable jammed off 1975 240d - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

robc · #1 10-29-2007, 04:26 PM

any suggestion would be appreciated
i pushed the cable in for the glowplug/starter/off cable, well i can't get it back out and therefore can't get it to start, or stop for that matter, its currently in a stuck in or off position, in the manuals i could find some info re this, and it starts by removing the instrument cluster. its stuck in really hard, i have pulled the knob completely off, and even with vice grips and all the effort i could muster, i could not pull it back out.

i traced the cable from where it hooks to the engine to where it comes thru the dash,

300SDog · #2 10-30-2007, 02:41 AM

I dunno because haint yet owned 115 diesel. Bumped this thread because yer question deserves answer..... anybody??

robc · #3 10-31-2007, 12:39 PM

Thanks,
i guess no one knows, and neither do i, i was hoping for some ideas, but, oh well,
its the cable with preheat starter switch
the manual for engines 615 616 says removal,
1. remove instrument cluster, unscrew control know and rosette and pull preheating starting switch in range of instrument cluster, unscrew detent cable control from steering lock switch,, loosen start and stop cable control toward injection pump at preheating starting switch and disconnect, pre load detent cable control with cap nut, disconnect at preheating starting switch and screw off, disconnect electric lines,...install reverse,
also adjusting detent cable control,
remove instrument cluster, pursh start and stop cable control to stop position, unscrew adjusting screw until steering lock switch is releaded, then screw out another 1 to 1 1/2 turns and counterclock adjusting nut, check adjustment
and thats it,
thats all i have to work with...
the cable has been tough to pull for awhile,
i am thinking possibly the adjusting nut may release some of the lock up, i do not think the cable is broken, it seems to move down by the engine, it seems to be bound up and locked up up under the dash to the pull area,
what i was hoping for is if someone could agree that the adjusting nut could have the solution in regards to the cable before i pull the instrument cluster and etc.
it does not actually say the adjusting nut has any bearing on the cable, but then i can not find anything else,
i guess the cable could be frayed, or broken, but do not think so, it could be something down by the engine, but do not think so, i am trying to minimize changes, and get to the heart of the problem, and am trying to do it myself
well thanks anyway for the response.
rob

Mike D · #4 10-31-2007, 12:44 PM

That cable should have a locking mechanism connected to the ignition switch. Has your key switch been a little funky lately?

gmog220d · #5 10-31-2007, 02:32 PM

Hate to say it, but sounds to me like the cable/switch is kaput. You mentioned that it was hard to operate for a while before it got stuck - whatever broke in there took its time until now.

I don't think the trouble is with the cable-ignition interlock. That thing makes it so you cannot turn the key to "off" while the cable is in the run position (keeps steering from locking up while driving). I can pull the cable in mine with or without the key in the ignition switch.

I think you need to pull the instrument cluster and have a look. Maybe the trouble is something simple after all, and it might be lurking back there.

katja · #6 10-31-2007, 03:43 PM

I can't help you with this, but I will say I have been having the same problem lately and was just about to post about it as well. The gorilla knob is taking gorilla strength to pull out sometimes and I'm afraid soon it's going to get to the same point as yours.

I wonder what is locking up? I thought it might be the interlock too; I noticed mine also can be pulled out with the key out, which isn't supposed to be possible I think. But the key cannot be turned off while the control is pulled out, so I know that is working correctly.

**************.com sells replacement start/stop controls but I'm not sure if the problem is in the switch or the linkage somewhere. Is any part of the start/stop control supposed to be lubricated, and if so, how?

-AC

robc · #7 11-08-2007, 04:49 AM

well....
i have pulled off the instrument cluster....pulled the 3 way starter switch out disconnected the cable, which i could not move, so i ordered the cable from mb, and a new knob.
so yesterday the weather was not bad so i took another look at it, and sprayed some wd40 down the teeny space in the cable and cable sleeve, and it seamed to pull some, at least it was moving, so then i put the cable back into the starter switch, put the pin in the two, put the clasp piece over it, had to bend it closer together, to get it to fit right, guess it keeps the pin from falling out
put the wires back on, the switch, put the switch back in the dash hole, put the wires back on the instrument cluster, pushed the instrument cluster back up, put the nut on the front of the starter switch which holds the switch to the dash, put the tore off switch the nut which was left back on the starter switch, put the key in, turned it on pulled the cable,
nothing happened but the...pushed the cable back in, no release of the key, it was getting dark and cold so i disconnected the battery red cable so the battery would not run down, closed the hood and went to sleep.
maybe i didnt put the wires back right, but it seemed like the only way for them to go,
oh and my parts are in at mb.
oh well its a new day now.

robc · #8 11-08-2007, 05:00 AM

i am kinda thinking its not the cable at this point, the cable is in a sleeve and is coated, so after getting close up and personal look at it, it would not seem to be a kind of cable which would fray, as it is coated at least at the top. altho i must not have it back together right, since the key is stuck in start position, i am wondering if its more at the bottom where it connects to the engine, actually the fuel injector pump, i think.
i will try to work on the top more.

Lycoming-8 · #9 11-08-2007, 11:43 PM

Not sure if you have tried disconnecting the cable from the engine side of things, but if it becomes easier to operate when that end is unhooked it sorta says that the dash end is likely ok.

On the old 220D, I think the Gorilla knob could be pulled out regardless of the key position. Of course it is now pretty old and decrepit, but it was that way when we got it in 1970.

robc · #10 11-22-2007, 10:13 AM

What I did FYI

Since I did not know what to do,
I started by pulling the console out, and disconnecting everything hooked to it. I unscrewed the washer on the outside of the dash, pulled the switch up and looked it over, as well as possible in the dark area under the dash, unable to get it to work, i unscrewed screws to the wires on each side of the switch, i unscrewed the cable out of the key area, i pulled the metal piece which is piece of metal which goes around where the cable and the switch join, and the pin which goes thru both, i took the switch in on the kitchen table and looked it over, cleaned it up, put some WD40 on each end of it, i took the cable, and loosened the other end above the fuel injector pump, after getting the cable i ordered from MB (they sent me one from chicago, actually for a 123 body, but they said it would work $50), i found i could get the cable moving up and down, i put some WD40 at the top where the sleeve is at the top of the cable, the 3 way starter switch and cable seemed not at easy to move as i would like but they moved. i cleaned off the area at the bottom of the cable where it connects to the fuel injector pump, i did notice a small crack on the engine side of the oblong sliding end of the rubber piece. So each of the pieces seemed to be operational. I noticed there was a heck of a bend in cable at the top, but it seemed to still work. I put it all back together, and it still didn't work, so I took it off again. Then i thought about the cable, it has a piece at the bottom which holds the sleeve in place, and the cable slides thru it. I thought the cable was suppose to pull thru the end piece of the starter switch, and the end of sleeve of the cable would be stopped by the end of the starter switch. Then i concluded that the end of sleeve at the top needed to actually be in the end of the starter switch. So i lost the screw that holds the the cable in, and went to a hardware store on bought a new nut and bolt about the same size. I had a heck of a time getting the end of the cable sleeve back into the end of the starter switch, especially since it is bent at the top area, finally using pliers i could pushed together the top end of the cable sleeve into the end of the starter switch, managed to get the little nut and bolt to hold it in into the end of the starter switch and tightened it up, i found it not wanting to move well so i loosened it back up a bit, i put the starter switch back into the dash, put to label piece over it (pull) and screwed the washer back on the end of the starter switch, i put the key cable back into the key piece, and played with both ends of the adjustments until it seemed to be working properly, then put the stuff on the back of the console piece as well as i could remember, put a new knob back on the outside of the starter switch, pushed the cable in all the way, went under the hood and pulled the cable sleeve down, till the fuel injection pump was straight down, and tightened the screw that holds in in place. I tightened the cable back up on the red wire to the battery.
And altho I believe i did a lot of unnecessary steps, and altho i still do not totally understand how that switch works, like the clasp around the joining pin, like why is it slotted?, and the key cable, it seems to tighten a metal piece which comes down on the cable end of the starter switch, and if things are too tight things don't work.

Now, the cable-3 way starter switch-key switch, all work, and the car starts up, and it pulls very easy. It seems to be sticking out a bit more, but its working.

The main problem was the sleeve to the cable must of come out of the end of the starter switch, and it needed to be in the end of the starter switch.

Headaches, its fairly difficult to get your arms into the little space to work behind the console area, and tools, and put your arms thru or around the steering wheel. And its a real small area to get your hands in behind the
console area and hook up the wires and cables to the back of the console.

Complications: I knocked out one of bulbs to the console trying to hook it up, so I still have to go back in there again. I do not think i have the blue black wires hooked up to the console correctly, think the other stuff it in the right connections. The lights on the right side speedometer side don't work. Maybe the connections in the back the blue and black wire. Also i suspect oil is coming from somewhere as my tennis shoes and bottoms of jeans look like they are covered with oil. I might of knocked something loose trying to connect everything back up. It was dark out, so i will check it out in daylight and try to find the bulb that fell out, and figure how the blue and black wire connect.

But what i like about the whole thing is that i fixed the problem myself. I did not have to take it to anyone and pay them some outrageous amount, I felt like I have some control over my own car. Even with the current high price of diesel, its still a 4 cylinder, instead of a 6 or 8. I still like and prefer this old car.

Perhaps this could help others who might experience the same, or related problems with the starter switch.

robc · #11 11-26-2007, 08:53 PM

well, I finally put all the console parts back where they are suppose to go, all lights are working, and the problem with the oil, was the cable to the oil pressure gauge. this car actually has oil going to the oil pressure gauge, and so the connection to the back of the gauge has to be very complete. i tightened snug, i didn't torque it, but tight - no space between the cable nut and the oil pressure gauge.

thats about it.

the only thing i might add, is that for the key lock, i did have to play with the nut on the cable where it connects to the key piece to get it to turn off and let me have the key without any problems.

and on the cable end, the sleeve at the top - i put it into the end of the 3 way starter switch, and then tightened up the nut and bolt which holds it in. the only thing here, is that i might have put it in, just a tad too far, as the cable button on the outside of the dash sticks out about 1/8 of an inch when it is shut off. so this might be an adjustment to check if you find yourself in this same situation. but i am going to let it go for now.

other than that, it was a success. i didn't need any parts, and i did go thru much more stuff than i needed to to get the job done. but that goes with not knowing what to do.