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  #76  
Old 07-31-2008, 11:55 AM
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In my 1500mi on the Vogtlands, running #1 nub front and #3 nub rear.. believe an increase of 15mm to the rear springs would set things right.

Overall, the fronts are good, and the height is on. My feeling is that most run HDs (as is on the rig), and think that any lower would be detrimental to the shocks. Even with the #1 nub at present, the shocks do not feel as stiff as when I ran them briefly on the stock setup, and attribute that to the fact that they are lowered from their original design. Otherwise, coils can always be cut if you decide to run (and find) Sports, Konis, and want an even stiffer rate. Stepping to a thicker #2 or #3 nub (with corrected rears) should firm up the front end slightly with the Bilsteins in their more proper operating range.

As far as the rears go, 15mm at the spring would raise the ride height an estimated 21mm, and would allow people to run a variety of spring pad configurations. A #1 nub pad would be 6mm higher the #3 nub at present, which should still yield a slight negative camber. The #2 nub would be close to zero camber, and #3 nub with a positive camber.

Any feedback is always appreciated.


Last edited by rudolfgreen; 07-31-2008 at 08:36 PM.
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  #77  
Old 07-31-2008, 01:45 PM
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Sounds good to me. Are the updated rears going to cost, or are they an exchange sort of thing?
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  #78  
Old 07-31-2008, 08:46 PM
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Spoke with Vogtland today, and the next phase is in motion. There will be a test set made, hopefully within the next few weeks. Once I have them installed, I will post updated pics and give concrete specs on what can be expected. Unfortunately, this will not be a free exchange deal.. although bear in mind the "Series I" rears will now become a collectors item for those who want a "lowering spring" rather than a "performance spring". More info to come.
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  #79  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:32 PM
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Unless the 2nd ones are progressive rate I am out.
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  #80  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudolfgreen View Post
Spoke with Vogtland today, and the next phase is in motion. There will be a test set made, hopefully within the next few weeks. Once I have them installed, I will post updated pics and give concrete specs on what can be expected. Unfortunately, this will not be a free exchange deal.. although bear in mind the "Series I" rears will now become a collectors item for those who want a "lowering spring" rather than a "performance spring". More info to come.

A rear "lowering spring" is not much good with out fronts to match. How much are we looking at for the updated rears?
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  #81  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Unless the 2nd ones are progressive rate I am out.
Progressive rate springs are almost double ($450-500) the cost of standard rate springs.. but if there is demand, anything is possible.

Last edited by rudolfgreen; 07-31-2008 at 11:38 PM.
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  #82  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudolfgreen View Post
progressive rate springs are almost double the cost of standard rate springs.. but if there is demand, anything is possible.
I am much happier now with my setup. The increases rate in the front was minor but noticeable. I will probably leave things they way they are.
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  #83  
Old 07-31-2008, 11:12 PM
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I would get a (full 4-piece) set if they are produced. I would also be interested in the price of the progressive style.
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  #84  
Old 07-31-2008, 11:12 PM
1984 300d
 
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Here's mine

My 84 with 2 nib front and back. If I ever get ambitious, I'd add some to the back. The correct spring compressor makes life easy. The original springs were harder to change then the replacements due the increased space between the new coils.

Contrary to popular belief, shocks are not responsible for holding the car up. Their primary job is to dampen. So unless you have air shocks, do not expect the slight pressure in the shocks to change the ride height by any real amount. You want it to ride higher?, run with half a tank of fuel.
Attached Thumbnails
My vogtland springs are in, here are some pics.-springs0006s.jpg   My vogtland springs are in, here are some pics.-springs0007s.jpg   My vogtland springs are in, here are some pics.-springs0008s.jpg  
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  #85  
Old 07-31-2008, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
A rear "lowering spring" is not much good with out fronts to match. How much are we looking at for the updated rears?
The new rears will better match the current fronts to allow proper use of spring pads to tailor overall rake/ride height.
The actual cost is dependent to the number of sets produced, but ideally in the $100-115 range, shipped.

As winmutt has demonstrated, cutting the fronts effectively increases the rate, which better matches current rear spring design.

Creating a progressive spring would require an entire new group buy, including gathering numbers and initial expenditures..
if somebody would like to facilitate that entire process, I would be glad to connect them to pursue such endeavors.

Last edited by rudolfgreen; 07-31-2008 at 11:31 PM.
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  #86  
Old 08-01-2008, 01:37 AM
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I took my car on some nice, fast, twisty roads today. I can now easily go around corners at twice the recommended speed limit I found it also still rides nicely when going up a dirt road with severe washboard. I could hardly feel it, where as I was about to loose teeth when I did the same road in the Toyota.
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  #87  
Old 08-01-2008, 11:44 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
I took my car on some nice, fast, twisty roads today. I can now easily go around corners at twice the recommended speed limit I found it also still rides nicely when going up a dirt road with severe washboard. I could hardly feel it, where as I was about to loose teeth when I did the same road in the Toyota.
Yes but do you have draggin ass syndrome in the turns? The car was designed to tilt forward just a bit, you're missing out on another 25% handling I bet
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  #88  
Old 08-01-2008, 10:49 PM
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Can you guys post some ride height and spring pad info? Really need to compile more data for an accurate spreadsheet to make these right. If people could take a quick measurement from the center of the wheel star, to the edge of the front fender and rear quarter, with what spring pads are in.. it would be EXTREMELY helpful to the process.
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  #89  
Old 08-01-2008, 11:19 PM
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You guys must have better roads than we have around here. I could loose an oil pan with the stock ride height if I don't watch out for the center ridge and a pot hole.
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  #90  
Old 08-02-2008, 09:32 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Rudolf I had to roll my fenders at first because of bad front shocks. Floor to trunk lip is 29", floor to hood corner lip is 29.5. 3nub in rear 1 nub front 1/2 coil off the front.

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