If you want to prolong the brake life, just let off the gas sooner at stop signs and corners.

If I had warped rotors I would not turn them to straighten. My old 82 123 wagon was a devil for warping rotors. I think it was just too heavy for the unvented rotors. If I had one now I would put on 126 vented rotors and calipers right off. It is a nice bolt on upgrade that doesn't cost much if you need front brakes anyway.

The front rotors and calipers are larger on the 123 than the 115 too and are a bolt on. YOu need new hoses too if you do it though not because they are different but they will be in a different location and if old they will crack and leak after a few months. This makes a nice upgrade that you can really feel in better stopping power for the amount of pedal pressure you apply.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Doubtful.

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83 SD

84 CD

I would go with doubtful too. Look at whatever racers use. I think usually braided line. I don't think your going to race your MB either. I would go with stock rubber hoses. Maybe the braided hoses if you got money to burn. I think Phil has ATE brake hoses for under $10. He listed some others for more (PBR ??). You can look locally too.
Also, something I hear that warps rotors is the use of impact wrenches. They don't always torque the same amount. I usually use a torque wrench to get the correct torque. Also, it seems that if I have a flat, then its a lot easier to take the lug nuts off. I also put a dab of anti-sieze on the threads. Some say not to do this. I haven't had a problem with the lug nuts loosening up.
Tom

Hahahahaha... did you two bother to take in the point of the site that bustedbenz linked to?

Some say not to do that because you shouldn't do that. While your use of a torque wrench is good procedure, you're actually over-torquing the lugs because of the addition of anti-seize to the threads. The torque rating is to acquire the proper stretch when using dry threads. Since you're lubricating the threads and thus reducing friction, you are getting more stretch at any given torque. It is acceptable to put a teensy bit of anti-seize on the seat, which will deter dissimilar metal corrosion (for steel lugs on aluminum wheels, that is) and galling.

man I gotta have me a set of mismatched color cross drilled brake lines. I hear they are fantastic for flushin your brake fluid too! I see they are now carrying blinker fluid....hopefully soon I can buy a can or two of compression from them. I shall spare no expense on my baby now.

Jim

or a pampers thread

FWIW here is how I deal with MB brakes:
Absolutely replace them if they are warped. I've wasted too much time and money turning warped rotors, the warp seems to almost always come back. I only turn them if they develop a large lip on the outer circumference as that lip tends to grab the new pads and make some noise. At that point though your rotors are probably worn out anyway. Turning rotors should cost about $10 each. I hardly ever turn MB rotors and usually get 2 or 3 pad changes per rotor. AFAIK real MB mechanics don't turn rotors.

I have mixed results with Chinese rotors, usually poor long term results but they are so tempting because they are so cheap, in the long run I should never use them, they tend to warp quicker and get noisy (don't know why). The most import thing to do once you're ready to replace the pads is to clean the caliper area where the pad ears sit with a small wire brush (or a small screwdriver) and then spray it with brake cleaner. Then you grease the pad ears where they contact caliper bracket contact points. Afterwards never power wash the wheels because that will remove the grease in there, a washing and light hosing of the wheels is fine during your regular car washings. If you are a stickler you should consider dialing in the rotors. Lug down the rotors without the tires, place a dial indicator (with magnetic base) in such a way that you can measure run out. Mark the stud to rotor position (I love white out for these kind of things) so you know where you started and redo in a new rotation position until you find the lowest runout which is where you should end up finally placing the rotors. Adds about 30 minutes to the complete job but I rarely bother but sometimes do on problem vehicles. Its also a way to pick up runout problems on old rotors. If you are going to reuse the old rotors it's even a beter idea to check for lowest runout position. Of course it doesn't "cure" the problem of so called warpage that occurs only once the rotors get hot. Make sure you clean (wire brush and brake clean) the rotor to hub contact surface and always torque your wheels in a star position with a torque wrench for even clamping distribution. Don't let a tire shop use an impact wrench when changing or rotating tires, thay almost all do (Costco suprisingly does it with a torque wrench). I like to use ATE plastilube to grease the pad ear to caliper contact surface, just a little bit, you don't want excess grease getting on the pad friction material. Some use antiseize and swear by it so that's an easy to get alternative. The parts places also sell little packs of caliper grease. Keep it clean and ligthly greased and you will eliminate most brake squeal. Sometimes individual braking habits will develop squeal, if that is your cause and the noise is driving you crazy I can eliminate often by ridding the brake and accelerating for about 100 feet or so. The squeak comes back but it is a temporary cure. many mechanics toss out the shims and use pads with built in backing. I like to go OEM or reputable aftermarket in a pinch (OE is too expensive for me).

As for mileage vs brake life, that is a joke. How often and hard you brake per mile is the factor. A NYC cabby told me once that he changes pads almost every 4 weeks! I would guess they are doing much less than 10,000 miles of low speed driving during that time. Others people can go much further if mostly highway. My numbers are probably off but the concept is right. Mountain and hill driving really messes up pads and rotors. Never knew if it was better to down shift to preserve brakes vs excess wear on trans.

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1972 450SL
1982 300D Turbo

WOW...I hope you can type fast....

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RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

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FACEBOOK: PANZER450

I was a bit wordy to say the least

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My brake pads on all 4 corners are about 65% remaining and my rotors look like they could used a turning, but aren't horribly grooved. should I turn the rotors and continue with the 65% pads? or turn with new pads?

What do YOU guys think?
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Don't touch them. Sure you have better things to do than to read my last post and replace pads and rotors that are still fine. Good luck.

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1972 450SL
1982 300D Turbo

One reason that I have heard from an State of Oregon mechanic I know pointed out that the Chinese brake disks were of less uniform iron quality than most of the others.

The reason given for this was that the Chinese government was pushing for everyone to be able to make cast iron, but that the quality of the mixture isn't all that great when you're getting your iron from multiple sources, or even just not paying attention to the constitution of the single source.

Given different qualities of iron in a disk, or just not a clean casting in the disk, could cause early warping issues.

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...