Dash light rheostat
I just looked up a price on the internet for a dash light rheostat. Prices for VDO rheostats seem to run $75+ for the rheostat for a 83 300d. Am I missing something here? It looks like a plain little pot controlling a couple of little bulbs. Is there some reason for this price. Particularly when the one for a 93 MB sells for $28.
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I suppose because it is totally mechanical, as opposed to the newer electronic ones?
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Most of us just solder a jumper wire across the rheostat pins where they are riveted to the ceramic and roll with it. They aren't exactly the brightest dash lights ever made... |
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Is your rheostat totally burnt or are the contacts just corroded? When I did it on my car I moved the switch back and fourth about a hundred times and the lights flickered to life as it cleared off some surface corrosion.
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They dont make rheostat's like that anymore very often. They are expensive even at the wholesale level direct from electronics manufactuers in quantity.
I was leery about just bypassing it, but I haven't regretted it. Max is where I would always have it anyways...its not going to blind you :-) |
Dont replace it. Hot wire it. Run a wire between the two terminals. I have never ever heard ANYONE complain about it being to bright.
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rheostat
Radio shack has a rheostat:
25-Ohm 3-Watt Rheostat $3.99 Model: 271-265 Catalog #: 271-265 Which seems about right. On the other hand, the common advice to just jumper the rheostat sounds like wise counsel. I suppose it would be possible to put in a rheostat from one of the numerous hangar queens I have hanging around. Perhaps the entire headlight switch/rheostat from a 1972 Volvo? It would still be a VDO part, and I could even turn my lights on with it. SEO |
Just solder between the two strips like the rest of us and enjoy the very dim factory bulbs trying their best.
There are threads here about adding LED type bulbs. The results look great! |
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