looking at a 124 300D. Key wont open trunk. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Wodnek · #1 11-01-2007, 06:36 PM

I am looking at what I think is a 1987 300D (advertised as a 1990) with a 603. It has a bad transmission, wont go forward or back. It has assorted issues but i can get it for $1000. The key does not work the truck lock. Does anyone know any trick to get into the trunk of a 124?

babymog · #2 11-01-2007, 06:50 PM

If it is the valet key (oval head), it won't open the trunk or glovebox. Try the square-head key or the one without a head (looks like a Y).

Oh, and if you pass on the car, let me know please.

Wodnek · #3 11-01-2007, 07:03 PM

Something is up with the keys. The square one wont go in the ignition, only the glove box and passenger door. The valet key is the only one that will start the car but wont even go in any of the other locks. The square key will go into the trunk lock but wont turn. No key will go in the drivers door and it looks messed up.

babymog · #4 11-01-2007, 07:25 PM

... might be a replacement ignition & key. Does the key have the red dot or does it look like a fairly new one? Hard to get around that one, ... the only way into the trunk is through the lock or taillamp, either one a messy affair.

Adenauer · #5 11-01-2007, 07:38 PM

One thing I forgot to tell you Wodnek, if you pull the box for the first aid kit, you may be able to reach both trunk lid hinges. If you back the bolts out of the lid, you may be able to swing the lid up by its leading edge - pivoting about the latch mechanism. There may be just enough play in the latch around the striker that the lid may be moved up far enough to reach back to manipulate the latch assembly. Who knows, you may find a box of nifty stuff in the trunk that nobody wanted to be seen. In any case, I am willing to bet that you'd be able to raise the front of the lid (the end toward/at the back window) by several inches before any serious damage to the latch would result. Open the trunk of the white '87 and have a look at the geometry of its latch and see what you think.

Alternatively, as I've said, bribe a kindergartener to crawl through the hole of the first aid box.

JimSmith · #6 11-01-2007, 08:04 PM

The key that works the passenger door and glove box should work in the trunk. It sounds like the starter switch has been replaced and the driver's door lock vandalized. Squirt some WD-40 or some other penetrant into the trunk lock slot and all over the key. Push the button in and out to make sure it is free to operate as well. Then, slip the key into the hole and use a little force in each direction. Repeat the WD-40 treatment, push the button in a few times and then try the key again. Make sure you get it into the hole up to the stop. it is entirely possible the lock is just full of crud and is sticking. This can make it difficult to turn at all, even when the key is all the way in. Also, do the vacuum locks (central locking feature) work at all? If the engine starts and the battery is charged the vacuum pump should run the locks and unless someone specifically locked the trunk out of the system, it will unlock when the locks are cycled. Which should work by sitting in the car and pushing the driver's button down and then, once all the doors lock, pull the button back up. All the doors should unlock, including the fuel filler flap and the trunk.

Give it a shot and let us know. Mining your way in through the back seat might also be possible, but only as a last resort. Jim

babymog · #7 11-01-2007, 09:16 PM

Ad: Not in a 124, the hinges are outboard of the speakers and the headrests have to be removed (from inside the trunk) to remove the parcel shelf.

Jim: Behind the 124 seat is steel, no openings. Fuel tank behind that.

Wod: Possible it is just jammed, wiggle the key back-and-forth as you slowly pull the key out, and manipulate up & down, might be that worn. If the key slot is horizontal - then it is locked, you'll need the key. If it is vertical | then it is unlocked whenever the doors are unlocked.

If it's going to be a beater or parts car, hole-saw behind the license plate frame, you can patch it with duct tape and put a plate over it for beater purposes, ... or if it's champagne, I've got a cheap lid for you across the lake.

I would however discourage prying it open, it'll damage the trunk and the steel at the bottom of the latch, pretty messy at best.

Wodnek · #8 11-01-2007, 09:19 PM

I will try the penetrating oil if i buy the car. I cant try the central locking because the knob is missing! I am a bit to large to get in through the back seat. The key does have a red dot (someone asked) I guess I could have a locksmith get me in through the trunk if I have to.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimSmith

The key that works the passenger door and glove box should work in the trunk. It sounds like the starter switch has been replaced and the driver's door lock vandalized. Squirt some WD-40 or some other penetrant into the trunk lock slot and all over the key. Push the button in and out to make sure it is free to operate as well. Then, slip the key into the hole and use a little force in each direction. Repeat the WD-40 treatment, push the button in a few times and then try the key again. Make sure you get it into the hole up to the stop. it is entirely possible the lock is just full of crud and is sticking. This can make it difficult to turn at all, even when the key is all the way in. Also, do the vacuum locks (central locking feature) work at all? If the engine starts and the battery is charged the vacuum pump should run the locks and unless someone specifically locked the trunk out of the system, it will unlock when the locks are cycled. Which should work by sitting in the car and pushing the driver's button down and then, once all the doors lock, pull the button back up. All the doors should unlock, including the fuel filler flap and the trunk.

Give it a shot and let us know. Mining your way in through the back seat might also be possible, but only as a last resort. Jim

babymog · #9 11-01-2007, 09:28 PM

The central locking works with the key lock and the button on both front doors.

You should hear the pump run (under the pass-side of the rear seat) when you lock & unlock either front door, it should also lock/unlock the fuel filler flap. Verify that the lock is vertical on the trunk button.

TTCummins · #10 11-02-2007, 11:22 AM

You do know that the key needs to be turned counterclockwise and then pushed in to pop the truck? Or is it that the key won't turn it?

funola · #11 11-02-2007, 12:31 PM

I don't know if this will work on your 124, but I had to break into the trunk of 2 of my 123's. See this thread how I did it

Breaking into 123 trunk w/o breaking anything

And you know what the problem was? Both mechanisms were gunked up such that the key did not turn the lock lever into the correct positon. Taking it apart and greasing it solved the problem.

Wodnek · #12 11-02-2007, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TTCummins

You do know that the key needs to be turned counterclockwise and then pushed in to pop the truck? Or is it that the key won't turn it?

The key wont turn. The lock is vertical so central locking wont unlock it. I looked on it again today and will probably buy it. The trans fluid is not burnt at all. i wonder if its a vacuum issue? Its also not bright red so it doesnt look like it was just changed. It has 363,000 miles and they have maintanance records available but not where the car is. The vacuum pump has been updated. The head is a number 14 which is a bit scary with the mileage, but for $1000 I would guess the parts are worth it. I could not find the plate showing manufacturing info anywhere on the car. That leaves the anomaly that they think its a 90 model, when it appears to be an 87. 603 engine, on trunk just 300D and turbo, no fender slots, older interior with no console, only driver side airbag, etc. The vin number decodes to 87. What if the title shows it to be a 90?

gsxr · #13 11-02-2007, 06:15 PM

Assuming you own the car:

Buy a new VIN-coded master key from the dealership for about $25. Worn keys sometimes don't work well, or don't work at ALL. BT, DT. It's worth the $25 to find out. Better yet, order a new ignition lock (good idea to replace after 20 years anyway) for approx $75, it will come with a new master key included. BT, DT too!!

Side note - there is special lock lube for the lock cylinders. WD-40, graphite, and other stuff can affect the alarm electrical connections. The factory stuff comes in a neat pressurized can that you press into the lock opening for 1 second, then put the key in & out a dozen times, wiping it between - this usually cleans & lubes the lock. I know, I know, nobody wants to spend the horrendous $10 for the "special" stuff, but hey, it will lube a couple dozen locks, so it lasts for years unless you have a Kaleb-size fleet.

babymog · #14 11-02-2007, 06:26 PM

Wod:

If the slot is vertical, it is unlocked. Will the button push in? It should, whether locked or unlocked, but when unlocked you can feel it hitting the mechanism as you push. If it is not hitting the mechanism, then it is probably locked via the central lock mechanism, which can be overridden by applying vacuum to the line from the pump (remove rear seat cushion, right side in foam clamshell) to unlock all doors. It's possible that there is a broken vacuum line to a door somewhere and the pump isn't able to create vacuum/pressure to lock & unlock doors/trunk/fuel flap (or the pump is dead).

It is also possible that it is unlatched, and just stuck closed with something on the gasket etc., try lifting harder?

If the transmission has no drive/reverse, it is not a vacuum issue. It could be a failed pump or many other things, no burned fluid means nothing I'm afraid as it is probably a teardown anyway.

Let me know if you need anything, I might be able to help. My brother is going to be here Saturday 10.NOV and returning to Wawatosa on Sunday, he could probably carry something reasonably small, ...