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  #1  
Old 11-02-2007, 02:17 AM
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New owner/member here - 82 300d - tune up and basics

So I was over ambitious and already posted about putting a turbo on my non turbo 82 300d euro. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforu...d.php?t=192310_
I am going to back off a little bit and do the basics first.
Can any body here guide me as for the basic tune up on these diesel cars.
First of the car has a little over 100k miles, I got it from my grandma and I am sure it hasn't seen much more than an oil change.
Now that its getting cold, the car seems sluggish like it not geting the required fuel andtakes about an hour and a half to hit 60.
- Chane the fuel filter? how and it looks like its under the hood.
- do i have to worry about the fuel pressure - bleeding or purging the lines
- as for that, what needs to be done when you run out of gas, I know your not supposed to run out on diesels. - is there some tool to do this.
- I use amsoil heavy duty oil and change regularly - any better insight?
- are there other filters/screen in the tank that need to be checked?
- is there any cleaning/ maintenance necessary for the injector pump or other components (injectors etc)?
- do you guys use fuel additive because of the new low sulfur diesel that is out? ( I heard it does not provide as much lubrication)
- can I put a k&n air filter on this or is it pointless
- Tell me what else I need to do
- I am mechanically inclined and worked on all my cars so i could probably do most jobs but i am definitely a peon when it comes to this diesel beast.

Well I guess thats about it for now,
I know its alot but I really appreciate your help.
Thanks
Robert


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  #2  
Old 11-02-2007, 02:32 AM
airbus's Avatar
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I don't know too much about the euros, but if you have a catalytic converter, get rid of it; if you have an EGR, disconnect it. Non turbos are quite sluggish compared to turbos, there's not much you can do. Adding a turbo is not a good idea, since the non turbos have different specs afaik. However, it's always a good idea to take care of the basic maintenance first, like changing all filters. Spend some time reading this forum, use the search button, etc.

Please don't sell it, though, just because it's slow, you have a great car there! Congratulations and welcome to the diesel crowd.
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2007, 07:47 AM
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Diesels, I think, don't have catalytic converters, at least none I have seen. And Euros probably didn't have any EGR stuff.
You may want to clean up the fuel, purge, if it's been sitting around. All...both filters, and there is a tank strainer, but worry about that later. A purge will help clean the IP.
There is a primer pump for when you run out of fuel, or change filters, it probably leaks, good idea to replace with a black unit, search around, you'll see.
Many will suggest against a K&N.
I use additives, for lubrication, and cetane boost, the latter in winter only.
Check condition of brake fluid, and pads, rotors for thickness.
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  #4  
Old 11-02-2007, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
- do you guys use fuel additive because of the new low sulfur diesel that is out? ( I heard it does not provide as much lubrication)
- can I put a k&n air filter on this or is it pointless
You heard wrong on the lubrication issue. It lubricates our pumps fine as-is, no additives are needed for lubrication. A cetane booster will help mileage and increase power slightly.

K&N on any diesel engine is pointless.

Quote:
- I use amsoil heavy duty oil and change regularly - any better insight?
How often (miles) do you change it?
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2007, 07:56 AM
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Valve adjustment.
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2007, 08:28 AM
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With the age and relatively very low mileage, if it hasn't been done yet, I would drive it until your diesel got low, then drain the tank, remove the tank strainer and inspect it.It is very possible that the fuel strainer is clogged with algae. On my old 79 240D, the algae had caked on the old fuel strainer like epoxy, and I just replaced it rather than attempt to clean it. Next, change out your fuel filters, run some Lubro Moly Diesel purge and purge the injectors (the process can be found by searching for it on this site). Then you'll want to purchase some Biobor algaecide and keep in the tank. Pepboys and Autozone sell something called Diesel catalyst, which will add more Cetane to your fuel, and that should be considered as it is a good additive. This may help you with your lack of power situation, but any non-turbo diesel is kind of a slug.
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  #7  
Old 11-02-2007, 09:12 AM
WTB: 94/95 E320 Wagon
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
Can any body here guide me as for the basic tune up on these diesel cars.


Get yourself a copy of the MB service manual on CD from MBUSA for about $20 plus shipping.
MBUSA Service Manuals:
http://www.classictechlit.mbusa.com/MB/
It will have the maintenance manual and all the maintenance procedures, plus repair procedures. Paper copies show up on Ebay from time to time, get the set if so inclined (the paper copies are superior to the CD).

That being said, here's a rough outline of the maint. schedule:
5k miles: Change motor oil and filter
15k miles: Adjust valves
30k miles: Change automatic trans fluid and filter, Change fuel filters, change air filter.
Annually, in spring: flush brake fluid, check fluid level in battery
Every two to three years: Change coolant (use ONLY MB Coolant - it is VERY different chemically to preserve the plastic parts of your system and lubricate the water pump). Replace the power steering fluid/filter. Every other coolant change, replace the thermostat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
First of the car has a little over 100k miles, I got it from my grandma and I am sure it hasn't seen much more than an oil change.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
Now that its getting cold, the car seems sluggish like it not geting the required fuel andtakes about an hour and a half to hit 60.
Replace both in-line and main fuel filters, and air filter. Adjust the valves. If you plan to do all maintenance yourself, get a set of the Hazet valve-adjustment wrenches for about $90 or so; they make the job SOOO much easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
- Chane the fuel filter? how and it looks like its under the hood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
- do i have to worry about the fuel pressure - bleeding or purging the lines
- as for that, what needs to be done when you run out of gas, I know your not supposed to run out on diesels. - is there some tool to do this.
There are two; an inline filter held by two hose clamps, and a big spin-on-looking main filter. It is NOT a spin-on; there is a large bolt on top of the filter holder that you must loosen to remove it, there may be o-rings to replace on the stem of that bold. Buy the filter from the dealer - it will come with the o-rings. Purchase a few more from an on-line re-seller (avoid Bosch brand and anything else not made in Austria or Germany) and keep a spare in the trunk.

When you install the big filter, fill it with ATF fluid before installing; this will reduce the bleed time and the ATF is a nice little tonic for your injectors and pre-chambers. Once you've got both new filters in place, use the hand primer pump to prime the system (it pushes fuel throught the pump circuit, it does NOT push fuel out to the injectors but your lines should still be full because you don't need to touch those for this operation). If the pump leaks at all, replace it. You may never get the car started if it really leaks bad. If it is the original white type, that you unscrew the top before using, it will probably leak. You may want to order a new pump to have ready in case your old one leaks; the new pump style is black and doesn't require any unscrewing prior to use, cost is about $20 or so. Operate the pump vigorously for 50 strokes or so; you will feel increase in resistance and hear change in note once the circuit is primed (noise becomes kind of a whistling rattle).

Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
- I use amsoil heavy duty oil and change regularly - any better insight?
As long as it is diesel rated, it is probably excellent oil. Mobil 1 also makes very good synthetic oils. Here is a website that stays fairly current on MB approved oils:

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
- are there other filters/screen in the tank that need to be checked?
There is a screen in the tank; do all the other maintenance first before deciding that you need to check that screen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
- is there any cleaning/ maintenance necessary for the injector pump or other components (injectors etc)?
No. If your engine idles smoothly and doesn't smoke too much (and there are many other contributers to smoking to eliminate prior to touching injectors and injection pump) then your injectors/pump are just fine. The pumps DO NOT loose their timing, so unless you've tried everything else, don't even think of playing with the timing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
- do you guys use fuel additive because of the new low sulfur diesel that is out? ( I heard it does not provide as much lubrication)
No, vast majority of fuel additives are snake oil and waste of money at best, harmful to your engine at worst.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
- can I put a k&n air filter on this or is it pointless
Worse than that, a K&N filter will allow more dust into your engine and increase engine wear. Try this test if you are not convinced. On a well tuned engine (including new air filter), time three or four 0-60 runs. Remove air filter entirely, and repeat. If you can find more than 0.1 seconds improvement, report back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
- Tell me what else I need to do
Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
- I am mechanically inclined and worked on all my cars so i could probably do most jobs but i am definitely a peon when it comes to this diesel beast.
Read, ask, learn here and other forums. Diesels are different, and MB diesels even more so. How to drive: When you start the car first thing in the a.m. and all subsequent starts, wait a count of ten after glow plug light goes out before cranking. Once you've got full oil pressure and engine has smoothed out, drive off gently. Drive gently until full operating temp is reached, and then drive it like you stole it. If automatic and driving in town, keep gear selector in '3' below 45 mph (keeps engine at higher RPM and reduces carbon build up). Read your owner's manual and understand the cold weather starting procedure.
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2007, 01:11 PM
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man you guys give some good and detailed info
Over on the mustang forum all I get is crap.
Thanks for all the replies, I will have to soak all that in and go from there.
I will def use search more often to find common maint tips.
Thanks alot
Robert
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2007, 02:02 PM
WTB: 94/95 E320 Wagon
 
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Kindly refrain from comparisons with ford owners...
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/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #10  
Old 11-02-2007, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82eurodiesel View Post
man you guys give some good and detailed info
Over on the mustang forum all I get is crap.
Thanks for all the replies, I will have to soak all that in and go from there.
I will def use search more often to find common maint tips.
Thanks alot
Robert
Most things in the manual will apply to your euro, except one thing you may notice right away is your injector pump (IP) is probably different, not much to be concerned about at this point but something to be aware of if you need to replace your vacuum shut off valve (car wont shut off). or your delivery valve seals leak (not as likely). The Haynes manual is not bad, Chelton is not so hot. Real BM shop manuals are the best. OH, and good you forget about that turbo, your car will do just fine when you get everything squared away, I would adjust the valves for starters. Have fun
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  #11  
Old 11-02-2007, 05:07 PM
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BTW. Do not mess with the engine configuration (adding turbo). I still miss my NA euro very much. Certainly no power house but the torque off the line cant be beat by my turbo 300d.

Update your sig and location....
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  #12  
Old 11-02-2007, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Real BM shop manuals are the best.
While he may call BM shop manuals the best,, I'll stick with MB shop manuals.. LOL
Man, I hate it when I transpose letters..

A lot of us on here love our Mercedes Diesels, and want to see them live long and prosperous lives. To see one get crushed, sort of hits me right in the gut. Thus, we are very helpful around here. They are great cars, and will treat you right if you treat them with the respect they deserve. Unlike some other cars (and forums) in today's throw away society.
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  #13  
Old 11-02-2007, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbus View Post
if you have an EGR, disconnect it.
I realize this has very little to do with the topic at hand but what does disconnecting the EGR do and how do you go about doing it?
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  #14  
Old 11-02-2007, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImBroke View Post
While he may call BM shop manuals the best,, I'll stick with MB shop manuals.. LOL
Man, I hate it when I transpose letters..
LOL, I must have been thinking in a senor moment or I'm dixlektic
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  #15  
Old 11-02-2007, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfa 75 View Post
I realize this has very little to do with the topic at hand but what does disconnecting the EGR do and how do you go about doing it?
I like to compare the effects on the engine when you disconnect the EGR to the effects on your body when you quit smoking.

Seriously, do a search on the topic, there are many threads out there that describe all the details. If you have a turbo, also read about removing the ALDA, you'll be surprised about the difference that makes.

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