I could use a few of those big 30cc syringes, if you could grab some when no one is looking.

My Rhino's have been with me for about 10 years or so.. Maybe I got the last good year? I use ramps for simple things like oil changes and inspections, but prefer jack stands overall. Have to use stands in my garage (which I hardly get to work in) because the floor is pretty slick, and the ramps just slide.
Speaking of jacks, I have a Rousch Racing jack from Sam's Club, one that says "three pumps to get the car off the ground" Let me tell you, the jack is a POS. Save your money, and get something different. Three pumps my butt. You can't drag it around, because the handle comes out (cheap design), and when jacking up the front of my F350, the handle was bending. I won't be getting another one, for sure.

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79 MB 280 SEL Euro 133k
77 MB 450SL 154k
05 Mustang GT Vert (3) 104k
12 TSX Wagon Tech (66k) (192k)
06 Subaru Outback base (135k) 164k
16 Acura MDX (109k) 111k
18 Silverado 2500 LTZ Midnight (212) 56k
97 Ford Ranger 163k
11 RAV4 154k
01 Escape 173k
04 Honda Pilot 292k
1967 Mustang (Resto Project)
1968 Mustang (Parts Bin)
00 Ford Ranger 124k

i have used the rhino ramps for years with all three of my cars without any problems... they do slide in the garage when i try to get the benz up on them but work fine for the wife's sentra cause its front wheel drive... for gloves i use the mechanix gloves

I use jack stands. Are ramps any better?


When I get a house I want a two post lift, that will do the trick.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I finally had enough of crummy floor jacks so this summer I bit the bullet and got a good 3.5-ton model from NAPA. It was expensive but so is throwing away money on crap that doesn't hold up. Granted, I've only had it a few months but it gets a lot of use and I think it's going to be a good one. I like the rubber pads on the saddle and handle, plus the casters on this jack actually work.

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1995 E300 200k
1981 300GD unknown km

Hatterasguy, if money (or space) is the issue then jack stands first and use the vehicle's jack. Both ramps and stands have their places. Stands are fast and easy for tire rotation, and give you more room to play underneath. Ramps (good ramps) are fast and very safe, safer than stands in my opinion. I have the best of both worlds with my two piece ramps. I doubt the lawyers would allow the sale of two piece ramps today, but where there's a will (and wood and flat iron and carriage bolts) there's a way.

I'd take a decent pit over a lift, especially if I had different toys to play with (tractor, trailer, etc.).

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daBenz - 1970 220D

If I'm ever in a part of the hospital where they have syringes like that, I may have more things to worry about than fixing my car - but I'll keep your request in mind.

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Gil

2004 ML350
1984 300CD; Ivory (sold)

I don't much like jackstands or walmart ramps either... 2 cinder blocks and a couple lengths of 2x6 works fine for me.... Costs a grand total of less than $10 and is plenty sturdy... For some things a curb works pretty well or a natural terrain feature (steep hillside), etc does the job.

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99 E300 Turbodiesel 100k

Never, never, never, never use cinder blocks. You are taking your life into your hands getting under a car supported by those things! They can and do blow apart with no warning.

Wood is the only thing you should trust.


I bought some very befy jack stands from Sears a few years ago for $30, got them on clearance. Getting the car up on them is a bit of a PITA but the W126 is nothing for them. I think they are rated at 6k pounds each.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Using a cinder block in lieu of a jackstand is probably the worst recommendation that could be put forth. A cinder block can crumble under the pressure of a vehicle's weight.

I have three pair of ramps, all steel with the side brace. bought one pair, & the other two from the scrap metal pile ot the dump. both like new. using them on dirt not a good idea. a good flat hard surface is best.

Jack stands same thing. I use 3/4" ply wood under ea stand when on asphalt, they can slowly sink into it on a warm day. I never feel safe with just the stands, so use one hydraulic jack on ea side just to feel safe.
We had a earth quack the other night, 5.6. I always think about this happening. You lucky guys with the Tornados, at least you can see them coming.

The two Hyd. jack I have, one is Harbor freight made in China. POS, slowly bleeds off. the other, bought in 82 made in Japan has never failed me.
Even the N.A.P.A ones are made in China, then what isn`t?
I do have a 4 ton Lincoln Hyd. jack that need some seals replaced. got it from work, was never missed . It wasn`t suppose to jack up 10 ton trucks. some day I`ll get around to that project. could use it to jack up the whole car, HMMM

Just measured my jack stands, they are 17" to the last click. Two ton and heavy built.

I need a nice 100 ft X 100 ft shop with a 2 post lift.

As far as gloves I use the blue nitrile. mostly HF gloves have been ok, but the last 2 boxes were crap. would tare getting them on. I have used a lot of them in the past. have some from Walmart they are ok but some of them tare getting them on. went through 5 pair @ Pick n Pull yesterday.

ever take them off thinking I will put them on later? seems the sweat from my hands must do something to them.

AS to cement/cinder blocks R U Nuts???? I cring to think about that. get by using them for a while maybe. but there is no strength to those things things. they will crumble as said above in other posts.
I know any GOOD shop I have been to, does not use them.


Any one seen that idiot under his mini truck tiped side ways with the 4X4 jammed into the road and up against the frame to hold it up with the Idiot under it? some where on internet I saw it. I think this falls in some where below using cinder blocks.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Not better but quicker if you don't need the wheels off the ground.

Typically less painful to smack into ramps than stands when moving around under the car or when a tight fastener suddenly gives.

I'm happy with exam gloves from Costco.

Sixto
87 300D

Not just any wood. Don't use Balsa wood for example. White oak, red oak is good. I'd not trust pine either.

I'd never crawl under those composite Rhino ramps. A good steel ramp is the only ones to get.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I have some ramps that were originally used to get a lawnmower in and out of a shed. Their heavy steel and easily support the benz, even if the cinder blocks and bricks used to hold them up don't...

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Ich liebe meine Autos!

1991 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL | Megasquirt MS3-Pro | 722.6 transmission w/ AMG paddles | Feind Motorsports Sway Bar | Stinger VIP Radar | AntiLaser Priority | PLX Wideband O2 | 150A Alternator | Cat Delete
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Blown engine, rebuilding someday...
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Rear ended, retired in garage.
2009 Yamaha AR230HO | Das Boot

Excessive speeding? It ain't excessive till I redline!

Here's a Rhino ramp story if you can get past the language -

http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/general-car-chat/283360-wtf-my-rhino-ramp-shattered-into-pieces.html

Common thought is repeatedly driving up the ramps hard then loading the end stop is what does them in.

Sixto
87 300D