Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-02-2007, 11:18 PM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,437
Angry w126 1986 300SDL -- no dash lights

Yes, I know this has been posted before and I found several threads for cluster removal. So, here's my situation. I've got the cluster out -- broke the center tab out of the left most cable; glue tomorrow.

I took the cluster out because I have no cluster lights -- hate driving at night and not knowing how FAST we are going. I figured the pentiometer (fader) worked because the light behind the outside temperature gauge works. So, I get the cluster out and the brown light sockets at the top won't come out. The plastic is brown above the sockets and is melted. So, I remove the outside temperature display and the odometer to get to the front. It is definitely melted.

I get the 2 big bulb out along with the 2 small ones (what do they do? Back light the odometer?); measure the resistance on one of the big bulbs and it is 3 ohms. Go out to the car battery and bingo, it works. Now what? Is there a fuse someplace I should have checked first? I'm guessing that the Westinghouse 5W5 E12EC is too much wattage, right?

Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I'll post photos when I can get the digital camera interfaced.
__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Last edited by daw_two; 11-02-2007 at 11:19 PM. Reason: formatting
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-02-2007, 11:47 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
First thing to do is to replace fuse 11.

After you have done that, turn the parking lights on and check for voltage at the rheostat, socket #5 on the 15 pole connector.

If you have voltage at #5, jump #5 to #8 and see if you get illumination on the bulbs.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-03-2007, 12:08 AM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,437
So, Brian. Are there 2 circuits within the rheostat? I'll give it a whirl after I replace the 5watt bulbs with 3watt bulbs in the morning. And one of the prisms looks browish --- have to wonder if my lights are going to look brown.

Thanks for the quick reply.
__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-03-2007, 12:13 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
So, Brian. Are there 2 circuits within the rheostat? I'll give it a whirl after I replace the 5watt bulbs with 3watt bulbs in the morning. And one of the prisms looks browish --- have to wonder if my lights are going to look brown.

Thanks for the quick reply.
The rheostat is a single circuit in series with the dash lights. I'm trying to see if you have power at the rheostat, and then bypass the rheostat to eliminate it from the circuit.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-03-2007, 12:43 AM
cdplayer's Avatar
Just my Jeep and my S500
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sacramento, Calif.
Posts: 581
cdplayer

Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
Yes, I know this has been posted before and I found several threads for cluster removal. So, here's my situation. I've got the cluster out -- broke the center tab out of the left most cable; glue tomorrow.

I took the cluster out because I have no cluster lights -- hate driving at night and not knowing how FAST we are going. I figured the pentiometer (fader) worked because the light behind the outside temperature gauge works. So, I get the cluster out and the brown light sockets at the top won't come out. The plastic is brown above the sockets and is melted. So, I remove the outside temperature display and the odometer to get to the front. It is definitely melted.

I get the 2 big bulb out along with the 2 small ones (what do they do? Back light the odometer?); measure the resistance on one of the big bulbs and it is 3 ohms. Go out to the car battery and bingo, it works. Now what? Is there a fuse someplace I should have checked first? I'm guessing that the Westinghouse 5W5 E12EC is too much wattage, right?

Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I'll post photos when I can get the digital camera interfaced.
I just fixed my cluster lighting problem. Early on I replaced the stock dull light bulbs with a much brighter (blue) bulbs. Then the left bulb seemed to burn out. Not really though. Upon inspection, I saw the plastic "cups" had
distorted with the heat produced from these bulbs.

No matter what I did I could not get the bulbs to work.
So I got another speedo/circuit assembly at the junk yard. Wrong one.
Then I grabbed my Brumel and began to hone out the distortion on the plastic cups. Cool!

It seems the distortion was lifting the bulb off the circuit board just enough to break the connection. Plus it was really hard to remove and reinsert the bulb too. But not now.
__________________


Selling used Mercedes parts on Ebay...always changing...
cdplayer51 take a look!
____________
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-03-2007, 12:45 AM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
The rheostat is a single circuit in series with the dash lights. I'm trying to see if you have power at the rheostat, and then bypass the rheostat to eliminate it from the circuit.

the rheostat dims and brightens the outside temperature display.....so, it must be working, right?

EDIT: While I'm in here, I might as well try to make the RESERVE light work on the fuel gauge work, too. Should it come on initially like in my 300D when the key is turned to position #1? What watt bulb is that tiny thing?

Thanks!
__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Last edited by daw_two; 11-03-2007 at 01:15 AM. Reason: added
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-03-2007, 01:17 AM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,437
Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
Yes, I know this has been posted before and I found several threads for cluster removal. So, here's my situation. I've got the cluster out -- broke the center tab out of the left most cable; glue tomorrow.

I took the cluster out because I have no cluster lights -- hate driving at night and not knowing how FAST we are going. I figured the pentiometer (fader) worked because the light behind the outside temperature gauge works. So, I get the cluster out and the brown light sockets at the top won't come out. The plastic is brown above the sockets and is melted. So, I remove the outside temperature display and the odometer to get to the front. It is definitely melted.

I get the 2 big bulb out along with the 2 small ones (what do they do? Back light the odometer?); measure the resistance on one of the big bulbs and it is 3 ohms. Go out to the car battery and bingo, it works. Now what? Is there a fuse someplace I should have checked first? I'm guessing that the Westinghouse 5W5 E12EC is too much wattage, right?

Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I'll post photos when I can get the digital camera interfaced.
Okay, I see the 2 small bulbs are my turn signals. Which work, of course. It's amazing what you can learn by looking thru the cluster from the back side. Got to remember to clean the back of the plexiglass, too.
__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-03-2007, 02:07 AM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 20,757
Paint the bulb surroundings gloss white or silver to maximize reflectivity (is that a word?).

Sixto
87 300D
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-03-2007, 09:30 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
the rheostat dims and brightens the outside temperature display.....so, it must be working, right?

EDIT: While I'm in here, I might as well try to make the RESERVE light work on the fuel gauge work, too. Should it come on initially like in my 300D when the key is turned to position #1? What watt bulb is that tiny thing?

Thanks!
Yes, that confirms that the circuit is functioning, so, you can forget about any fuse or rheostat issues.

Your problem is the bulbs and/or the sockets.

The reserve light doesn't work because of the accumulated debris on the fuel sending unit.........most likely..........and you'll have to remove the rear seat and pull that unit (need a big socket) and clean it with Brakekleen. That will restore function of the reserve light.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-03-2007, 09:55 AM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Yes, that confirms that the circuit is functioning, so, you can forget about any fuse or rheostat issues.

Your problem is the bulbs and/or the sockets.

The reserve light doesn't work because of the accumulated debris on the fuel sending unit.........most likely..........and you'll have to remove the rear seat and pull that unit (need a big socket) and clean it with Brakekleen. That will restore function of the reserve light.

So, Brian, are you saying the reserve light will NOT come on when the key is in Position #1 because of the accumlated debris? This is interesting. Would biodiesel help dissolve this debris? My 300SDL was run on a biodiesel blend by the PO and I've been running B100 for past 4498 miles. So biodiesel doesn't help?

Also, on my 1985 300D, the reserve light comes on in Position #1, then goes off after car is started.

Different beasts?

Thanks again for your assistance.

I have about .45 volts to pin #5 of the 15 connector socket. I'm going to replace the bulbs with 3watt and see what happens --- maybe the melted plastic has contorted the sockets so they aren't making contact on the little strips around the edge of the hole. Fasinating way of making a connection. These cars continue to amaze me.
__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-03-2007, 10:11 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
So, Brian, are you saying the reserve light will NOT come on when the key is in Position #1 because of the accumlated debris? This is interesting. Would biodiesel help dissolve this debris? My 300SDL was run on a biodiesel blend by the PO and I've been running B100 for past 4498 miles. So biodiesel doesn't help?

Also, on my 1985 300D, the reserve light comes on in Position #1, then goes off after car is started.

Different beasts?

Thanks again for your assistance.

I have about .45 volts to pin #5 of the 15 connector socket. I'm going to replace the bulbs with 3watt and see what happens --- maybe the melted plastic has contorted the sockets so they aren't making contact on the little strips around the edge of the hole. Fasinating way of making a connection. These cars continue to amaze me.
Well, nothing is for certain, but, on two of these, the gunk at the bottom of the sending unit created circuit problems for the light. No opinion as to whether Biodiesel will cure it.

Both the '85 and the SDL function in an identical manner. The light comes on in position 1 and is extinguished when the vehicle is running. It will come on again when there's about 3 gallons remaining in the tank. I'm not sure if the accumulated debris will affect the test in the original #1 position. It's certainly possible.

I think you are correct with the distortion on the socket holes.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-03-2007, 03:51 PM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,437
Done!!! Hurray!!!

I have working dash lights that actually dim with the rhetostat!!!! I trim a little bit of plastic on the back (or bottom) of the plastic surround on the outside edges of the inner piece. I also painted the brown (from over heat) plastic a nice bright white. I replaced the bulb in the RESERVE light indicator but it is NOT coming on when the key is in Postion #1. Oh, well, that was going to be a bonus anyway. Maybe at some point it will start working.

At least, NOW, I'll be able to see how FAST I'm going on my upcoming road trip --- the first time I've been able to drive on the interstate for more than an hour.

Time to tackle the radio antenna and the gasket around it.

Thanks, everyone, for documentating all the work in front of me.
__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Last edited by daw_two; 11-03-2007 at 03:54 PM. Reason: format
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page