Why not jack the front and roll it in?

__________________
1984 300TD

The snow and ice came a bit early. It's frozen to the ground when the snow slightly melted and froze the car to the grassy field its sitting in. It going to have to wait for a better thaw.

__________________
DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

I removed the B2 piston (for the fourth time in a month from my 81-SD, see former post) and the white plastic B2 bushing was cut along (more of a slice) the edges going in the direction of the round bushing.

What does that indicate?

I know I did not seat the pushrod correctly the last time I put it in because the outside cover would not automatically pop-back when I depressed it.

Does the cut on that bushing mean something else is wrong?

Thanks,

Don

I can add a picture if that would help, but I am not sure how well it would come out.

__________________
84-300D 256K
81-300SD 217K (Wife's)
79-300CD 212K - Project
89-Volvo 245 305K

I put the new b2 piston, new bushing, and black teflon seal. The car goes forward but the same as it did originally.

The question I now have about my transmission is related to vacuum (and since I was told that I could only use this topic line for this car's tranny until I sell the car, I guess all other questions must be put here!)

I took off the black vacuum line that goes directly to the tranny from the IP green dashpot and it would not hold any vacuum

But, when I tested the 3 pronged connector, it was holding about 16 psi at idle. My understanding is that is too high and it should only be about 10-12. Is this correct.

I have tried to look at all of the tranny vacuum threads. Can I take all of the black box lines away from on top of the valve cover and run a direct line to the tranny from the green dashpot?

What say the wise?

__________________
84-300D 256K
81-300SD 217K (Wife's)
79-300CD 212K - Project
89-Volvo 245 305K

It was already done on my car by a mechanic, but I was told to search for 'disable EGR' for instructions on how to take that stuff off.

__________________
1984 300TD

I have looked at the egr disable and mine is disabled.

How can I bring down the vacuum at idle from 16 to around 10 when measured past the green dashpot?

And, should the black vacuum line to the tranny hold any vacuum when applied by the mityvac?

Thanks

__________________
84-300D 256K
81-300SD 217K (Wife's)
79-300CD 212K - Project
89-Volvo 245 305K

Should the black vacuum hose that comes from the green dashpot going directly to the tranny modulator valve hold vacuum when applied by a mity-vac?

Mine does not hold any vacuum.

Thanks,

Don

__________________
84-300D 256K
81-300SD 217K (Wife's)
79-300CD 212K - Project
89-Volvo 245 305K

But vacuum is not your problem. Vacuum on these transmissions only "moderates" the shifts. That is, as the transmission runs through its various ranges, the vacuum modulator simply has the effect of making each range change smooth and soft or rather harsh. So it does pay to have the vacuum correct to the modulator valve. But is does not effect your car in going into either the forward or reverse mode of the transmission. It must do that with or without vacuum.

__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

junqueyardjim

Thanks for the information. The car will now go forward, but it does not grab from a complete stop until the RPMs are quite high.

__________________
84-300D 256K
81-300SD 217K (Wife's)
79-300CD 212K - Project
89-Volvo 245 305K

But these automatics are very complex and have extremely close tolerances. Your problem is internal, and I wouldn't have a clue as to where to start to look for it. Sorry!

__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

UPDATE: Well, the car is driving OK, but the shifts are hard all the way around.

I removed all of the lines going to the black box on top of the valve cover and put in a straight line from the VCV to the tranny modulator valve.

With the car off, I hooked the MityVac to the modulator (off the black line connecting to the green dashpot) and pumped the mityvac and no vacuum would hold. I hooked the Mityvac to the VCC (right where it hooks to the dashpot) and no vacuum would hold (car off).

Car on: no vacuum at either place.

Is there suppose to be a line coming from the main brake booster line (an inline tee is there) that hooks to a "T" after the green dashpot to the line that goes to the modulator?

I have looked at ALL of the vacuum threads until I am very confused...granted that does not take much.

Three main questions:

1. Is the modulator suppose to hold vacuum when it is pumped with the Mityvac without the car running?

2. Where does the VCV get its vacuum and will it hold vacuum without the car on?

3. Does the modulator pop out or twist out on threads?

Thanks...at least the car is going in all gears?

__________________
84-300D 256K
81-300SD 217K (Wife's)
79-300CD 212K - Project
89-Volvo 245 305K

This is where your errors begin.

The VCV is T'd into the line to the modulator valve. The supply vacuum comes up to the T and the bull is connected to the VCV via the green dashpot. The opposite side of the T is connected to the modulator.

I cannot tell, from your description, if you completely eliminated the VCV from the test. This test should be Mityvac directly to modulator.........nothing else. If the modulator won't hold vacuum for 90 seconds or so..........that's the first thing to investigate. It might be as simple as a replacement rubber cap.


There must be a vacuum supply line.........it's typically from the main brake booster line........that feeds the T directly above the VCV. The green dashpot is on the bull of the T and feeds the VCV.

1. Yes, within reason. If it dumps vacuum in 10 seconds.......that's too much of a leak. If it dumps in 90 seconds, that's tolerable.

2. The VCV gets vacuum from the main vacuum line. It does not "hold" any vacuum.........it dumps vacuum. When the modulator holds vacuum, the VCV will dump vacuum down to a specific level. At idle, that level is typically 12" or so. With greater rack opening..........it drops down to nearly zero.

3. You're not removing the modulator at this time...........check the rubber cap for integrity.

Brian!

Finally,I understand something!

OK, I replaced the cap (I ordered that last week) and the modulator loses all vacuum within about 2 seconds. I have a modulator seal that I also bought, but have not tried to install it.

I will respond with updated readings tomorrow!

Thanks again...I fell that I might be progressing!

Don

__________________
84-300D 256K
81-300SD 217K (Wife's)
79-300CD 212K - Project
89-Volvo 245 305K

If you've replaced the cap and you've properly tested the modulator (I'm not fully convinced of this)..........then, you're going to need to replace the modulator and/or the seal. The modulator must hold reasonable vacuum or we cannot continue forward.

OK...I got a new vacuum gauge and it shows that the modulator holds any vacuum I put on it. What does that mean? I can put 15-18 vacuum and it holds for good.

My mityvac was leaking.

Thanks, Don.

__________________
84-300D 256K
81-300SD 217K (Wife's)
79-300CD 212K - Project
89-Volvo 245 305K