That compressor tool will not clear the Mercedes supension components, I wish it would work, but it wont. i ended up buying the correct tool also, like the ebay tool, not a Klann but a replica like the post and I love it. Infrequent use makes it just fine to use at home. I tried everything else I could find at rental shops and auto parts stores, nothing really works safely but the correct too. Becareful without it please.
NOTE: The frfee loaner ball joint removal and intall tools worked fine for me for the Mercedes. Autozone has a decent set, but a place called Advance Auto had a great set that was fine for my W201 and my W124 MB.

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Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

i could not figure out how to remove this tool once the springs were in place in the car....... Its too big to go out the top hole

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

I had to remove the rod completely, then each side is pulled out individually. It was somewhat difficult to use them on the first try. But then I got handy with em. I guess the only concern is safety. I'm going to look up in the manual to see what kind of pressure they are rated for.

here is a bad picture of my spring compressor. my dad built it.

before the flames start flying about how I'm gonna kill myself. its made of 2 plates of 1/4 steel reinforced with a section of pipe that acts as a centering ring inside the spring, and the compression is provided by some 1" all thread. i also installed 2 3/4" all threads as alignment pins on the outside of the spring.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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My concern with the lead screws on the outside is that it makes working the spring in and out of place that much more difficult. When fitting new springs, you'll have to clock the compressor correctly so the coil ends align with the perches. Nothing insurmountable.

Looks like it wouldn't be a lot of work to make a similar set-up with a single lead screw through the center but the factor of safety goes down.

Sixto
87 300D

once in the car i dropped the outer bars. but when moving the spring around the garage, and decompressing it out of the car they are very helpful. but with the 1" all thread i didn't feel unsafe removing them to manhandle it into the car.

when decompressing it the plates of steel wanna spin, one is locked to the all thread with a castle nut and a grove that holds the nut. and the other plat is getting the impact of the compression nut rotating down the all thread. so having those plates stay aligned while decompression is helpful. i need to take better pictures. it works pretty darn well.

Also, the compression nut is welded to a 2ft section of pipe, and a bolt is welded to the other end of that. making it really easy to compress the spring with a huge wrench about 10 inches above everything in the engine compartment. and it slips through the hole and out the bottom of the car with the spring.

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The auction is already over, so I can't see what kind of compressor he got, but I assume it's like the JTC one I bought (also from El Paso tool, I think). For mine, yes, I did need to grind the top access holes about 2mm larger in diameter on my w123 to get the tool to fit through it. Looked to me like it was needed only because the layers of sheet metal down there didn't align perfectly, so perhaps some cars need the hole enlarged and others don't.

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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

If it has been built properly and substantially, the only issue becomes workability. I built this one....
Picture of my Spring Compressor

There is no comparison to the tool that started the thread when you compare ease of use and speed. It is really easy to use.

Mine was built at a time when to do anything else was not possible for more than one reason and would repeat the entire process again

Looks good from as you said... a bad photo!
Don

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1980 300TD-T (82 Turbo and Trans) 159,000 Miles "Jackie-O"
1983 300SD 272,000 Miles "Aristotle"
1987 Jeep Wagoneer Limited - keeps the MB's off the ice and out of the snow
1994 BMW 530it