Glad to hear people are using my plan of attack!

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It's been a little while since I did my oil cooler lines on my 300SD. Still working great.

However, I am seeing a little bit of wetness on the bottom nut of the oil cooler. The metal line is clean (proving that the replacement hose is in tact), just the nut is wet. I've never heard of oil leaking through the screw in connection before.

Any thoughts or comments?

I am going to tackle this issue on my 84 300D sometime soon. I plan to drain the oil like an oil change, cut the two hoses, remove the oil cooler, cut the collar off, remove the hose and leave the barb intact. I don't plan to unscrew the barb fitting from the cooler. I plan to cut the collars off the metal lines still attached to the car and remove the hose from those barbs. Then I will put 5/8" hose with the Norma clamps. BUT what I figure I'll do is cut a pair of slits lengthwise for an inch or two on each end of the replacement hose, to make an alligator mouth on each end of the hose. I plan to put those two pieces over the collar at the top of the barbs, and put a clamp on that side, simply to keep the hose from pulling off. I will use one or two other clamps as others have used here to make the seal around the barb. Will also use the silicone gasket material as well. Should work. I figure a little bit of leaking ain't gonna blow my engine - it's a sudden blowoff that would do that. So slicing the hoses lengthwise for an inch or to so I can extend those flaps over the collar and clamp them there should make it less likely to blow off. Whaddaya think?

Not anything I would do....but that's the beauty of these forums, people try all manner of innovative and creative solutions, some fry their engines and some pass the test of time and everyone learns in the process.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Agreed!

Mine are still holding up nice, no leaks, haven't had to tighten them and been driving all over Arizona.

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I see there are 15mm high pressure hoses available. 5/8" is 15.875 mm... was wondering if the 15mm hose would work better than 5/8"

15mm is the correct inside diameter size for a 617.952.

Please post the source of the 15mm ID Hose.

Note that when you look at the Hose spec you also need to look up the temp the hose can take during normal operation.

When you see the letters "WP" on US Hose that stands for working pressure. In the written spec their will also be a burst pressure and what fluid the hose is made to handle.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Not sure what you mean by flaps but you can post some pics when the time comes.
Also the Barbs on the Oil Cooler end of the Hose were not the same as the Barbs on the Tubing end of the Hose and the front barb is bigger then the others.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Assuming the Connection is tight it is hard to say.

The seal there is metal to metal.

I thin 2 people have had the aluminum nipple develop a crack. There was no conslusive reason for the cracks showing up.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I think that when you do a mod on things you need to understand how what you are fooling with works.

Next you need to have enough skill to do a proficient job or be willing to lest someone who has the skill do the parts where you don't have ths skill.

When I started this thread I knew that most of those add on Oil Coolers that people buy usually have Hose Barbs on them for use with hose and some sort of Clamps. And, those have been reliable enough that they they have not changed.

I have also seen a lot of Trucks and other type of Equipment where hose and Camps were used so I knew that what I was doing would be with in reason safe.

Even if you only use quality Worm Gear type Hose Clamps (2 of them) on each end of the Hose I don't see how it would be possible for the Hose to blow off unless there is something seriously wrong that causes some abnormally high oil pressure.

The other way would be if the Hoes itself deteriorated or shrank under the Clamps (that is what happens to the Hose under the crimpped collars).
So when you have the Hood up look down at the Hose ends.

If there is a problem replacing the Hose is cheap and just a matter of unscrewing the Clamps.
I think that is a better choice then driving with seeping factory made Hoses trying to wait till you have the Money and time to install a new set of Hoses.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Here is the link to the 15mm hose. It shows a working temp to 250F with short term temps to 284. Maybe that isn't good enough.


https://www.belmetric.com/rh15hp-smooth-high-pressure-15mm-p-962.html?cPath=14_139

Seems kind of marginal to me. Here's the specs on the hose I use.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Typical oil temps going through the oil cooler hose is around 180F, so 250F working temp should be sufficient. A 15 mm hose will fit slightly tighter over the barb than 5/8 hose, but after it's crimped or squeezed down with hose clamps, I doubt there will be any difference. But if you can get the metric hose just as easily as the SAE, go for it. I would not split the hose to get it over the barb stop and add an extra clamp there.

In the pic of my oil cooler line parts, the barbs are all 1.25 in long and will fit 3 hose clamps. Put that extra clamp over the barbs!

Your description of doing the job is the easiest way possible (be sure to put a large pan underneath when you cut the rubber hoses!). With 3 good quality hose clamps on each barb, I think it will be more bomb proof in the long run than the AN fitting solution which requires welding and adding bulky fittings which adds more potential failure points.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

It must be adequate because the Cohline Hose #2633.1300 is what you get wnen you buy the the factory made Cohline Oil Cooler Hoses for an 84 300D. You can see the numbers on the hose in some of the pictures on the auto parts seller sites.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I guess it is time to confess. When I changed the Hose last year+ (I used Coojay's Norma Hose Clamps and Oietiker Clamps on the Oil Cooler end; there is a post on that but I did not say what hose I used) I used the Cohline 15mm Hose from Bellmetric 2633-1300; see pic. I bought 2 meters of it.

There is another company that sells the Cohline Hose it but for 2 times as much. One of the companies had it listed as Fuel Hose but showed a pic with the part numbers on it.

Not sure why I decided to sit on the information. I know that I wanted to see if there was other sources of the Hose besides Bellmetric and the other place I found.

Anyway the Hose has been working fine on my Car for at lest a year.

You can see the part maker and part number on the Hose and as I said you can sometimes see the same info on some of the factory made oil cooler hoses for My 84 300d made by Cohline.

Conti is also another maker of factory made Oil Cooler Hoses but I was never able ot locate a souce of their Hose.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel