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#271
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Tips?
Resurrecting this old thread. I have to replace a leaking oil cooler hose and for several reasons (unknown quality of aftermarket replacements when they can be found, do not want to risk stripping out the oil cooler threads, do not want to take out the newer motor mounts I just put in, etc) I plan on doing the cut the crimped collar and double lamp hose repair method.
I have already sourced the correct 15MM ID hose and 23MM clamps from Belmetric, so my only questions are......what is the best way to cut the old hose crimp off......cut it vertically, then split it and peel it off the old hose, or cut through it horizontally? I want to cut it so as to leave the lip on the barb to butt the new hose tightly against so any tips, directions, or suggestions are GREATLY appreciated.
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#272
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I just looked. Norma clamps I used say 16-28 mm. The uninstalled hose OD is 23mm.
Hose clamp size chart: https://hoseco.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Clamping-Products-new.pdf
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#273
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How you described is how I cut mine off, never had any problems. Just stop short of the very top of the clamp and break it with a screwdriver. The hose itself is fairly think so not much worry about the barn getting knicked either. Just twist and pull them off with pliers without crushing the barb.
Good luck |
#274
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So cut it vertically, stopping just short of the top of the clamp, peel it away from the hose and gently pry the remainder away from the lip with a screwdriver......correct!
Thanks
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#275
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Gonna start it today after work, plan is to remove the P/S pump (the one I just replaced last month) to get more room. Wondering if I really need to drain the oil or not. I would suspect most of it will have drained back to the pan......thoughts??
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#276
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No need to drain the oil, you may loose a half quart at the most. I suggest blowing out the oil cooler after cutting the old hose out. You don"t want any oil on the new hose or barb at the crimp.
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#277
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Ok, granted I am having to work outside on this issue which doesn't help, but this job has all the earmarks of being a genuine PITA. Grinding a slot in the crimps is not a huge deal, but peeling it back and getting the hose off the barb is really starting to test the limits of my medication!
So far, after working on it for about two hours I have the power steering pump off and out of the way, and one of the lower crimps by the motor mount split (but not off). The lower ones are probably harder, but damn after 40 years the crimp does not want to peel off easily, and the hose is positively welded to the barb. I'm hopeful the new hoses go on easier than the old ones come off, but even so, it is looking like this job is going to take some time......or is it just me!
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#278
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Odd… I hacksawed them with no issue whatsoever. Mind you, this was done on a flat surface.
Are you sure you’re cutting deep/far enough?
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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White. |
#279
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I used a dremel with a grinding wheel, and yes I believe I have cut deep enough. I cut entirely through the crimp lengthwise down to the rubber hose, and split the crimp in half, but peeling the halves off the hose is being a challenge as they are really stuck to the hose. I also used a box cutter knife to cut the rubber hose lengthwise to get it off the barb, but it too is really stuck on the barb. Almost like 40 years of heat cycles welded the rubber to the metal.
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#280
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Quote:
You can also cut the collars off the auto trans cooler hoses put your own hose on and use clamps. And the same collar on the fuel tank outlet hose. Parts are getting harder to find.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#281
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psaboic,
Sounds like you are trying to cut the collars off the hose with the fittings attached to the oil cooler and oil filter. Sounds tough to work that way. I think everyone else has removed the hoses to re-rubber them off the car. A bench vise helps and pry bars to peel the thick steel collars off. I removed the L motor bracket to get the hose assemblies out, but perhaps could pull out the front if you remove the radiator. Rubber hoses stuck to metal tubes is common, even after a few years. You often must slice the rubber to peel it off. Don't pry with screwdrivers too much or you can booger the metal fittings. Many owners messed up the copper heater core tubes (at firewall) in older U.S. cars by trying to pry the rubber hoses off. Ditto for the aluminum heater core stubs in the W123.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#282
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Once I cut off the crimps at the motor mount end of the hoses and remove the hoses off the barbs, I was able to simply unbolt the cooler from the radiator, and then cut and remove the hose crimps at the cooler fittings easily on my workbench. The main reasons I did not remove the hose fittings at the oil filter and the cooler are 1. The fittings are not leaking in any way. 2. They have been in place for almost 40 years and I do not want to risk destroying the threads on the cooler or the filter housing, and 3. I did not want to deal with the huge PITA is would be to remove the whole hose assembly and then try to thread it back in place.
Right now the old hose sections are completely off the car and the cooler. Next is to clean everything up, attach the new hoses and clamps to the cooler, install the cooler, attach the hoses and clamps to the barbs by the motor mount, install the Power steering pump, top off the oil and check for leaks!
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#283
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Ok, she is done and leak free.
Used Belmetric 15mm ID hose and it fit the barbs like a glove. Double hose clamped the hose ends (a total of 8 clamps) with 16-27mm range clamps. I also went a bit anal and safety wired/lock wired each hose clamp as well. Taking sound advice I cut the hoses about 1.5 inches longer than the originals to mitigate the power steering pulley issue if the motor mounts let go. Total cost for the whole repair was under $100, and I feel a lot better now that the original 40 year old hoses are replaced. Glenn
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#284
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Quote:
Good job.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#285
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I'm planning to do this job in the coming weeks. Here's my materials list so far:
Hose: Cohline #2633.1300 3 ft total length. Currently out of stock from Belmetric. Hoping that changes soon so that I don't have to pay extra buying overseas. Clamps: Oetiker 16700029 2 for each connection point, total of 8. Clamp Installer tool: Oetiker 14100396 The only thing I'm a little unclear on is if there is a consensus for the best sealant to use on the nipples before installing new hoses. I read Loctite 404 was discussed earlier in the thread. Any thoughts on whether that's my best option? My plan will be to remove the old hoses fully and bench install. I'm doing motor mounts at the same time, as well as replacing radiator and pretty much the entire cooling system. (Although I do intend to reuse the oil cooler). Any tips? |
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