I honestly don't know how much increase in risk there is with a hose clamp. I do occasionally have to tighten cooling system hoses at 1 bar, but I don't know if a catastrophic failure is really credible at 3+ bars. My gut feeling is that the clamp is less reliable than the OEM hose (mostly because the OEM parts do have a pretty good track record). I don't know if a clamp could loosen due to vibration and allow the hose to completely disconnect. If I was going to try a hose/clamp design, I would want a significant safety factor on the pressure rating and I would be checking the clamps pretty frequently for any sign of leakage (at least at first).

When in doubt, I tend to default to my (cost is no object) "what would I do in a critical nuclear safety system design" mode. I also default to keeping things as close to stock as possible, even if I'm the only one who knows about it. Besides, my indy would smack me upside the head if he saw something like that on my car. From my point of view:

DIY hose - $20
OEM hose - $350

Not having to think about hose failures - Priceless

That works for me... frequently.

Brian why not just get new line's crimped on? Its pretty cheap, and your SDL's aren't exactly beaters...

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Yes, I know.

But, I'm not ready to condone the OE solution as the only possible solution............this engineering degree should allow me to analyze whether the proposed system will be just as durable as the factory.

I certainly realize that the factory hose will likely last over 10 years without any attention.........and that's why they need to use it. The solution with the hose clamps may need attention every three years.........and I'm perfectly fine with that.

Yes, that's a viable solution if we can find a local fellow to do it. In checking with most hydraulic shops.........metric is not a language that they speak.

You have any shops that can do this.........??

It would probably be better under all situations if we had low oil pressure warning buzzers. If a person used this alternative design and added a low oil pressure warning buzzer, the system would be even better than just replacing with OE hoses.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

That is probably the bottom line. If you are willing to keep a good eye on them, and you use parts with a healthy design margin, there is no reason it won't work. I would definitely be looking at the clamps at least every oil change, an I probably wouldn't take one eye off the pressure gauge for the first 6 months.

One last thought; are you ever going to sell this car to someone who may not be as diligent?

That would also be a consideration.

Yes, but if that "attention needed" happened to be on the highway when you are doing 75mph you probably aren't going to get the chance to repair the situation.
There is no guarantee that you will get drips or seepage prior to a complete blowout......
Of all the places I would be tempted to cut corners, this just couldn't be one of them. That is just me.......

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

What would be the scenario that would result in a complete blowout?

Would the hose fail?

Would the hose clamps (both of them) fail?

I'm curious as to why this solution seems to have doom attached to it??

To allay the fears and doom and gloom, one can always run a test to see how much pressure the double clamps will hold. All you need is a pressure gauge and an air compressor.

I'd use better hose clamps, with one being a constant pressure spring type.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

That's why I am looking into adding a low oil level warning.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Often hose clamps dig into the material they are clamping. The result could be an oil aneurysm.....

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

I'd expect that to occur with time..........hence the need to change the hose every three years or so..........just to be safe.

I don't believe it would occur catastrophically.

An aneurysm is a blockage. How can a hose clamp digging into a hose cause a blockage?

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked