Cheap oil cooler hose replacement. - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JimmyL · #61 11-14-2007, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I'd expect that to occur with time..........hence the need to change the hose every three years or so..........just to be safe.

I don't believe it would occur catastrophically.

You certainly could be correct. Be sure and keep us posted on your progress.....

JimmyL · #62 11-14-2007, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

An aneurysm is a blockage. How can a hose clamp digging into a hose cause a blockage?

It basically was metaphoric.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia:

An aneurysm (or aneurism) is a localized, blood-filled dilation (bulge) of a blood vessel caused by disease or weakening of the vessel wall.[1] Aneurysms most commonly occur in arteries at the base of the brain (the circle of Willis) and in the aorta (the main artery coming out of the heart), a so-called aortic aneurysm. The bulge in a blood vessel can burst and lead to death at any time. The larger an aneurysm becomes, the more likely it is to burst. Aneurysms can usually be treated.

KAdams4458 · #63 11-14-2007, 01:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

...Often hose clamps dig into the material they are clamping...

Only when improperly applied will a hose clamp dig in to the hose. It's a common mistake. Nearly every hose clamp I have seen applied on a car by a DIY'er, and even a number of professional mechanics has been tightened down way too much. When dealing with any fastener, too tight is never a good thing.

Given the advanced in chemical engineering and process control that has taken place since these hoses were created, I'd venture to say that any chunk of hose, be it clamped on, or a fresh set of crimped on OE-style hoses is going to outlive the original versions that we know can perform their job for 20 years, if applied properly.

Whiskeydan · #64 11-14-2007, 01:34 AM

Cheap ass bastards.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=27E11SZO828703AMX6&year=1985&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=A&part=Oil+Cooler+Hose

Diesel911 · #65 11-14-2007, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiskeydan

Cheap ass bastards.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=27E11SZO828703AMX6&year=1985&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=A&part=Oil+Cooler+Hose

When my Wife calls me "Old Bastard" I at least get a hug.
I can buy the hoses for my 84 300d for around $60 or so each if I wanted to.

Diesel911 · #66 11-14-2007, 02:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

I honestly don't know how much increase in risk there is with a hose clamp. I do occasionally have to tighten cooling system hoses at 1 bar, but I don't know if a catastrophic failure is really credible at 3+ bars. My gut feeling is that the clamp is less reliable than the OEM hose (mostly because the OEM parts do have a pretty good track record). I don't know if a clamp could loosen due to vibration and allow the hose to completely disconnect. If I was going to try a hose/clamp design, I would want a significant safety factor on the pressure rating and I would be checking the clamps pretty frequently for any sign of leakage (at least at first).

When in doubt, I tend to default to my (cost is no object) "what would I do in a critical nuclear safety system design" mode. I also default to keeping things as close to stock as possible, even if I'm the only one who knows about it. Besides, my indy would smack me upside the head if he saw something like that on my car. From my point of view:

DIY hose - $20
OEM hose - $350

Not having to think about hose failures - Priceless

If vibration is a consideration remember I used the same type of clamps that are holding all you engine coolant hoses on!
What usually happens to them is that the hose shrinks under them making the connection loose and causing leaks.

KAdams4458 · #67 11-14-2007, 02:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiskeydan

Cheap ass bastards.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=27E11SZO828703AMX6&year=1985&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=A&part=Oil+Cooler+Hose

I'm not just a cheap ass bastard. I'm a cheap ass bastard that needed hoses in order to get the car to a shop appointment the next day! I didn't have a week to wait for them, and the Merc was hemorrhaging oil like the Exxon Valdez.

#68 11-14-2007, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

If vibration is a consideration remember I used the same type of clamps that are holding all you engine coolant hoses on!
What usually happens to them is that the hose shrinks under them making the connection loose and causing leaks.

That was my point, it's not unusual to have to re-tightem a coolant hose clamp. The oil pressure is at least 3-4 times higher than the coolant, so I would keep an eye on them.

Diesel911 · #69 11-14-2007, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

That was my point, it's not unusual to have to re-tightem a coolant hose clamp. The oil pressure is at least 3-4 times higher than the coolant, so I would keep an eye on them.

Of course and tightening the clamps is easy.
The hose had also srunk under the crimped collars on my car; that's why they were seeping. The biggest advantage of the crimped collar over clamps is that it has a very wide clamping area.
After removing one of the crimped collars I put a hose clamp on the old hose as I needed to drive the car. It stopped leaking.
It actually looks as if you could remove the crimped collars an put hose clamps on the old hose and stop the leaks.
Even I am not that much of a thrill seaker.

punky · #70 11-14-2007, 12:53 PM

I thought I remembered an old post whereby the original crimp was cut length wise a few times around and peeled back(like a banana) enough to remove old hose. This is all predicated on my faulty memory that the original crimp had sharp barbs on its inside which gripped the hose. Then after inserting new line you'd put hose clamps over the original crimp.

Hatterasguy · #71 11-14-2007, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Yes, that's a viable solution if we can find a local fellow to do it. In checking with most hydraulic shops.........metric is not a language that they speak.

You have any shops that can do this.........??

Yeah, right off exit 40 is a place.

http://www.faxonengineering.com/products.htm

Diesel911 · #72 11-18-2007, 02:10 AM

I think I have found some helpful answers; In the MB service manual (18.8-005/2) it states the relief valve in the oil filter housing is set at 3.5 bars (on my 84 300D). Since the oil returning from the oil cooler goes back to the oil filter housing and through the oil filter part goes to the engine bearings and part goes back to the oil pan.
This indicates to me that as long as everything is functioning correctly (especially the oil filter relief valve) the oil pressure in the oil cooler and oil cooler hoses should not be more than 3.5 bars.
If you get any dirt in the hoses while you are changing them the oil going through the hoses is filtered before it goes into the engine or back into the oil pan.

karenme1965 · #73 11-18-2007, 02:34 AM

My problem was that the hose is not available in the US that I could find. And very expensive from Germany. I drive a '72 300SEL and it's shaped differently (lower oil line) as the air compressor is in the way. My fix was to go to a hydraulic hose shop and they cut off my beautiful fittings (oh that hurt) and welded on a bolt that clamps to new fitting and hose. It cost $45.00 and I didn't know what else to do. I think I would have been too scared to do it myself, but I am just trusting that these hose experts know what they are doing. I will keep an eye on it, though.

omegabenz · #74 11-18-2007, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by karenme1965

My problem was that the hose is not available in the US that I could find. And very expensive from Germany. I drive a '72 300SEL and it's shaped differently (lower oil line) as the air compressor is in the way. My fix was to go to a hydraulic hose shop and they cut off my beautiful fittings (oh that hurt) and welded on a bolt that clamps to new fitting and hose. It cost $45.00 and I didn't know what else to do. I think I would have been too scared to do it myself, but I am just trusting that these hose experts know what they are doing. I will keep an eye on it, though.

what is the correct mb part number for the hose to which you are refering?

captainmonk · #75 11-18-2007, 12:43 PM

always one to take a different path I must tell you guys on every boat there are one time done fittings particular to that boat remote coolers etc . Mostly we are talking $100000 engines with a high pressure hose and stainless clamps Your all paranoid about the viability of it working ok on your 20 year old car Except Jimmy of course he's just anal