I started buying the 5-7 dollar chinese dremel tool type of crude copies a few years back. Usually red or orange in color. They seem adaquate for my needs now.

So cheap that to have a spare is easily affordable. So far I have not burned out one or damaged it. Just do not load them down excessivly and they are fairly happy. Same rule applies to all high speed motors.

Diesel911, I'm in total agreement with you. I've fabricated some hose myself, which, whilst it doesn't have ANY pressure to speak of (it was a hydraulic hose between gearbox and transfer case in my 4x4) used good hydraulic hose with push-lock fittings that worked really well for the cost ($5 fittings, $10 hose).

I would do your hack in a heartbeat if my benz needed it. I'm not sure how you ascertained that yours needed to change the lines, but If I were to do this hack, I would perhaps change the fitting to a 90-degree fitting to tak out the bend in the hose, like what Mach4 has done. The other alternative is to find hose with maybe 100psi WP rather than 300 psi. I would think the lesser hose is all we need for our Mercs and it would mean a hose that is more flexible and thus one that ostensibly "bites" into the barbs better and allow for a stronger clamp force to be applied.

Perhaps the hydraulic shops have better clamps? Earlier on in the thread, you mentioned that you posted this to see if there was interest in it. Well I for one would definitely consider this as a worthy method for replacing my hoses...if I needed it.

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1987 300TD
1984 300D
755,000 KM and going strong
BC Canada

On My original Hoses one of them was more than just wet by the crimped on Collars. I believe it was the Hose that has the Hot Oil going into the Oil cooler.
I was new to the Forum at that time and I likely had read of someons Hose that had bee seeping Oi burst on them an take out the Engine. So I decided mine needed to be changed.

When I loosened the to Oil Cooler Hose Nut I stripped off about 3 threads. After that happend I did not want attempt loosening the lower one.
Also at that time I had not read that the Oil Cooler Nipples could be repaired.
If I could not remove the lower Hose I had to repair it somehow. So I did.

I also coated the Upper Oil Cooler Nipple with JB Weld and installed the upper Hose fitting like that.

Since that time I have aquired the Tools and Parts to replace the Damaged Nipples; I even bought another Oil Cooler at the Junk Yard just incase I managed to screw the job up.

But, it looks like I may never do any of the above as long as everything is OK with the setup I have.

Note: there is another good thread on alternative Hose replacements somewhere besides the one listed below.
Someone used the following and made their own Hoses with crimped on Collars:Galaxy® 4890 SLE A/C Refrigerant Hose A/C hose (used #12 Hose= 5/8“) Mastercool 71550 Manual Basic AC Hose Crimper kit MA71550 $146

Oil Cooler Hose Replacement and AC Crimper Tool
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/302729-oil-cooler-line-replacement.html#post2762346

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Title = Frustration
I located a source of small T-Bolt Clamps and bought 2 sets of 4 each in 2 size ranges.
The T-bolt clamps have limited ranges of movement.

The 20-22mm Clamp is too small and the next size up 23-24mm is too large.

When the 23-24mm Clamp is tightened all the way down you can see a gap and can twist the Hose with your hands.

The largest OD of the Hose (5/8"ID Hose) where it goes over the Hose Barb is 23mm. That puts it right at the bottom of the range 23-25mm T-Bolt Clamp.
Apparently what is needed with 5/8" Goodyear Slip Fit Hose is a 21-23mm T-Bolt Clamp.

Or Thicker 5/8" ID Hose could be used to the larger 23-25mm clamps could be used.

Another option might be to make some sort of liner to decrease the ID of the 23-25mm Clamps.

The Seller is in Australia and shipping is alone $18!!!
NORMACLAMP® GBS EXTREME HEAVY DUTY BOLT CLAMPS are primarily for use in applications where hose clamps must meet stringent hi-torque and hi-sealing requirementsClamping Range: 21mm to 23mmBand Width: 18mmMaterial Grade: W2 - Stainless Steel band and bridge 1.4016 (430). Bolt is mild steel zinc plated.Manufactured in Europe to DIN3017 International StandardsSolid band with rolled edges for maximum hose protection and sealing efficiency

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I found another on eBay but this one is in England and the shipping is more reasonable.
MIKALOR W2 SUPRA HEAVEY DUTY STAINLESS STEEL HOSE CLAMP 21mm – 23 mm (min -- max) Part No: SHC-W2-023

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Diesel911, thanks for resurrecting this thread. I wish I had seen it a year ago when an oil hose on my son's 84 300D got a hole from the power steering belt (due to AC belt break). I replaced the entire hose assembly, only because I had a spare, but that is quite involved. Not only did I have to remove the engine mount, it was hard to find and swing wrenches for the big nuts at the oil filter. Your repair is much simpler and probably more assured, since the hose in new.

Ignore the naysayers who always say "buy factory for $$$$". I can't see your repair ever failing. I have aftermarket AC on some of my 60's cars that use hose clamps, which never leaked, and there is plenty of oil in AC lines. Indeed, when I removed the hoses, I had to cut and peel them off the barbs. Not coming off when you want is the main problem. AC pressures run ~250 psi, vs ~45 psi in the oil cooler lines. I have a ferrule crimper, so I could attach new hose with collars to look just like the factory, however It looks like you would have to remove the whole tube to do so, which is too much work. The hose clamps they sell for AC retrofits (have a little finger protruding) might be the best. I have had regular worm clamps cock on me.

I also wouldn't pay $500 for a new oil cooler. I grabbed one at PickNPull for ~$10 last time, to have for the future. People asking big bucks on ebay are dreaming.

It was over 3 years ago but when I bought an extra Oil Cooler down here one Oil Cooler was $20 each (I also pulled one from an 1978 SD). Also there was some more labor involved as 2 of the ones I tried to remove the Nipples started to strip.

On Ebay they seem to go for around $100 each. I don't think that is too unfair as there is driving time and/or labor to remove it. When it is shipped someone has to take the time to package it; to drive it there and to stand in line to get it shipped (I know I would not want to wait at Home to have it picked up for shipping); and, eBay and Paypal take a cut of the cost.
So if you don't want to Pull Your own Oil Cooler I think $100 is Fair.

when I got My Oil cooler I took the Hose ends with it. I put an Air Hose Fitting in and a Pipe Plug Hose in another so that I could pressurize them with Air to test for leaks.

I think there is 2 of our Members who have had issues with their Hose only and Worm Gear Clamp replacements done by Prior Owners. One ruined the Engine when the Hose came off.

Where I used to work I had seen a bunch of Trucks that had leaking Hose ends where they used Braided Steel Hose and Worm Gear Clamps. They are not compatible. The Worm Gear Camp cannot put enough tension on the Hose through the Braided Steel for longevity.

Nearly every aftermarket Oil Cooler I have seen used Oil Cooler Hose and Hose Clamps. There are expensive ones that have better setups but most just have a Bare Steel or Aluminum Nipple sticking out.


I also put on a Low Oil Pressure alarm. But, as it was later pointed out if you are on the Freeway and you loose a Hose by the time the Oil Pressure Alarm goes off there could still be damage due to the load and speed on the Car. But, My Car spends 99% of the time driving in the City.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Well I am going to be doing diesel911 cheap oil cooler line fix....

My reasoning, extremely lacking funds and lower oil cooler hose is NLA or on back order.....plus I really don't want to lose my daily driver because I have to track down another oil cooler....

This seems like a good idea, I cannot see anything that would cause an issue with it....as long as you inspect the repair when you check the oil....

My current hose is rock hard and has about a dozen or more tiny tares at the bend....so drive with a rotted hose or a clamped hose..

Here is what I am using, I am going to use Aeroquip model fc332-10 hose because the temperature of the oil is 257°F the hose must be high temp....aeroquip is the cheapest....parker model 836-10 will also work but is a but more....the highest psi rating I could find in the engine is 7 bar roughly 110 psi the pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing is rates at 3.5bar so the 250psi rating of the aero hose should work fine but parker hose is rated at 350 psi in case anyone wants better protection.

Parker hose

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/pneumatics/pneumatic-couplings-fittings/Pneumatic-Hoses/push-lok-hose-5-8-inch-o-d-350-psi-air-hydraulic-fluid-lubricating-oil-antifreeze-blue-cover

Aero hose

http://hosewarehouse.com/FC332-10-FC332-10-Aeroquip-Socketless-Push-on-Hose-High-Temp-equal-to-FBV1000-

For the clamps I will be using made in Germany Norma torro 16mm-27mm clamps.....notice there are no perforations in the band and the the edges are curved....this clamp also has a torque rate of 35in lb and I believe the ones diesel used are rated at 10in lb

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Ship-12-Count-Norma-Torro-Stainless-16-28mm-5-8-to-1-3-32-Hose-Clamps-/140902409757?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ce70261d&vxp=mtr

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I came a cross another type of Clamp.
This pic is only to show the type of Clamp and is not the correct size or part number. It is made by Oteiker and I found it on Zorrotools on ebay.
I think Zorro Tools also has a regular website.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I started this thread back in 11-11-2007 about 6-1/2 years ago and Yesterday I replaced the Hose I installed back then as one was seeping Oi and tighening the Clamp did not fix that.

I has planned to use Oetiker Clamps; the the type that you Pinch but there was no room to do that on the Lower Oil Lines without buying a Tool different from the cheap Nail/Tile Nipper that I did use.

Using the Oetiker Claps on the Oil Cooler ends of the Hose means that that ene has to be able to be unscrewed from the Oil Cooler and that had Me facing the original Problem which was I had partially stripped the threads on the Uppper Oil Cooler Nipple and used JB Weld Epoxy to make sure the Nut held onto the 3 threads that were left and that worked.
Also when I removed the Lower Hose the Threads also stripped off of that.

Do to the stripped threads on both ends I cut the Old Nipples off and replaced them with the Repair Nipples. There is a Wiki on that as well as at least one other Thread in the DIY Section.
what I did that was different on that is I knew there was almost zero chance of drilling and tapping the 2 holes straight into the Oil Cooler. So I did not bother with the Crush Washers and applied JB Weld Epoxy to the threads of the Oil Cooler Repair Nipples.

After loosening the Clamps on the Oil Filter end of the Hose I had trouble yanking them off so I just cut the Hoses and removed the Oil Cooler (I had to remove the Oil Cooler any way to repair the Oil Cooler Nipples).

On the W123 removing the Oil Cooler is easy. You remove 2 Bolts and there is some sort of Clamps that attach them to the Radiator and more or less the Cooler is pulled up through the Top.

I used 2 Oetiker Clamps on each of the Oil Cooler Hose Ends and 2 Norma type Clamps per each Hose end on the Oil Filter Housing end of the Hoses.
The Norma Clamps were suggested by Cooljay and those Clamps are not as wide as the NAPA Clamps in the original setup so they were a better fit.

In the first Pic you can see the Epoxy that oozed out when I screwed the Nut over it.
Pics of the upper and lower stripped nipples
Pic of the upper Hose with the Oetiker Clamps on it
Pic of the lower Hoses with the Norma Hose Clamps

Attached Thumbnails

         

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

When I did the Oil Cooler Nipple Repair I left as much Metal as I could after cutting the Nipples. That put the clamped area of the Upper Oil Cooler Hose really close to the Power Steering Pulley. I had to angle the Hose Neck away from the Pulley.

The job uses aboutm 27.5 inches of Hose. So if you buy 1 yard of Hose you would have extra left over.

For Me the bad part of the Job was that It took 2.5 Hours to find the Repair Nipples that I have had for over 6 Years.
I had 2 used ones and 2 new ones (I never found the new one). I also have a good used Oil Cooler and I never found that either. So I spent a lot of time dragging stuff out and sifting throug it as the Nipples are small.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I cut off the crimps on the old oil cooler lines, replaced the rubber lines, and double hose clamped them using quality clamps. Not ideal and was recommended against doing so on the forum here, but it's held up to a year of driving with no leaks or failures.

I will probably replace it with brazed-on JIC fittings and hydraulic line.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

If I were going to do that, I would use 2 hose clamps, one worm clamp but the other one would be a good quality constant tension spring clamp like what VW uses on the later model A2, A3, A4's.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

What Hose did you use?

I am thinking that the Oetiker Clamps ought to function similar to the Crimped Collar and as time passes you could squeeze them a little more if needed.

They do make Oetiker Clamp Crimping Tools that can crimp parallel to the Hose and that might have worked in the space available. But, I was not interested in buying one. So I just used the Hose Clamps on the Oil Filter End of the Hoses.

If you know that you can remover Your Oil Cooler without stripping the threads on a W123 you would have more room to fool with that.
After Installing the Repari Nipples on the Oil Cooler I applied Never Sieze to the Treads and I won't be having any more corroded Thread issues so I can now always remove the Oil Cooler if needed to do a better job on the Hoses.

Between the cost of Clamps and Hose you can easily replace the Hoses on three W123s for the cost of only one Factory made Oil Cooler Hose.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I would disagree with that. It's all about surface area crimped. The collar squeezes a lot more surface area of hose to barb. Hose clamps, whether worm type or Oetiker, have similar surface areas. The advantage of a constant tension spring clamp is that it self adjusts the tension to the hose rubber expanding/shrinking from heat/cool cycles and age.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked