Cheap oil cooler hose replacement. - Page 16 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diesel911 · #**226** 01-02-2020, 01:02 PM

Several years back I changed to 15mm Hose.

The Choline Oil Cooler Hose for my 84 300D is 1233 1300 Inside diameter of 15mm and a outside diameter of 23mm and I got it form Bellmetric.

derburger · #**227** 11-22-2020, 07:47 PM

Here is my "temporary fix" for my 1980 240d's crumbling oil cooler hoses, which I did due to time constraints, NLA parts, and not wanting to strip out the oil cooler's threads. For a permanent fix, I'm going to pull the oil cooler & hoses from a junkyard 240d and have a hydraulic hose shop crimp-on 15mm Cohline hose. This would also give me a spare oil cooler in case the threads strip.

I used a hacksaw and a cutting-disc dremel to remove the old oil cooler hoses & collars. I degreased the oil cooler line barbs and applied Toyota FIPG for a hopefully better seal, pushed on the new hose and tightened the stainless Oetiker-style clamps with end nipper pliers. Thinking "hand tight" isn't tight enough on the clamps, I cranked them down with a shop vise or large c-clamp on the pliers' handles - this could also be done with "cheater pipes" on the handles for more leverage. I also safety wired the lower clamps but still think there is a chance that the hose blows off as the hose ages.

The hose I used was <3ft of Fragola 803010 Push Lock Hose #10, 5/8id. Placed on the barbs, its outside diameter was roughly 23mm - if I had more time I'd order some more suitable Oetiker clamps from McMaster, but I used locally available 3/4" (od?) clamps (Apollo 851-792). Tools used from a nautical-themed national tool store: hacksaw, 10in end nipper pliers, dremel, safety wire pliers, .041 stainless lock wire.

At some point these oil cooler hoses will be NLA from Mercedes, and some of the aftermarket ones are questionable. I'm not saying to use this method, but am posting this to give people some thoughts for when they run into this problem on their W123.

Shern · #**228** 11-23-2020, 12:12 AM

Curious, why not use the dremel on the hose nuts?

Diesel911 · #**229** 11-23-2020, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shern

Curious, why not use the dremel on the hose nuts?

If someone plans to cut and split the nuts to preserve the nipples they need to have a new set of factor made hoses on hand. And as mentioned the availability and quality of the hoses is suspect.
As time passes the critical hoses are going to be NLA.

Then from the title of the thread "Cheap Oil Cooler Hose Replacement." Besides avoiding the stripped nipples replacing only the hose is cheap.

Another advantage is once you replace only the hose it becomes easy to change it if you need to do that.

barry12345 · #**230** 11-23-2020, 02:28 AM

To work safety wires into the repair is not really that hard. Massively reducing the risk of any blow off. As the hose deteriorates with time of course as the clamping pressure reduces.

Eventually the hose will blow off it not contstrained with a safety wire. It is far from rocket science to do this. Cheap as well.

Those that only use clamps should check them every year or so to see if they are still tight. In the day a rubber hose would kind of vulcanise itself to a barb.

Rubber is not used against a barb in this application.. At best the outside layer of the hose is rubber. The thermostat in the system when closed.

It would be bad if oil pressure is deadheaded in that sub system. I never really looked but suspect this is not the case. To me the only effective pressure that would develop is caused by any natural occuring oil cooler restricting. I really should have a look sometime. A hose blowing off does indicate a pressure is present. Has any member ever had a clamped on hose blow off in this setup? Are Most original hose failures between the ends. The issue caused by rotted hose?

Diesel911 · #**231** 11-23-2020, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry12345

To work safety wires into the repair is not really that hard. Massively reducing the risk of any blow off. As the hose deteriorates with time of course as the clamping pressure reduces.

Eventually the hose will blow off it not contstrained with a safety wire. It is far from rocket science to do this. Cheap as well.

Those that only use clamps should check them every year or so to see if they are still tight. In the day a rubber hose would kind of vulcanise itself to a barb.

Rubber is not used against a barb in this application.. At best the outside layer of the hose is rubber. The thermostat in the system when closed.

It would be bad if oil pressure is deadheaded in that sub system. I never really looked but suspect this is not the case. To me the only effective pressure that would develop is caused by any natural occuring oil cooler restricting. I really should have a look sometime. A hose blowing off does indicate a pressure is present. Has any member ever had a clamped on hose blow off in this setup? Are Most original hose failures between the ends. The issue caused by rotted hose?

From what I have read and others may have read different of different issues. The factory hoses fail under the crimped collar or at the end of the very last outer crimp. (The hose that the hot oil goes through deteriorates the soonest.)
The hose in those areas shrunk and slipped out or cracked at the very last outermost crimp.
The people that had that happened said that the lines had seepage in those areas. So there was some warning.
Sometimes it happened with Cars that someone had recently bought and I think they really thought about the oil cooler hoses at all because lots of passenger vehicles don't have Oil Coolers.

When you see someone posting they just bought a Mercedes and want to know what they should check be sure tell them if their Oil Cooler Hoses are seeping the need to be replaced as soon as possible and about the chance of the Nipples getting stripped.

People have bought cars were the previous owners had replace only the hose; usually with only one clamp per end. Several people said they drove the car like that and had the Hose slip off the nipple.
If someone buys a Car were the Owner only replaced the Hoses they ought to not drive the car until they replace the hoses themselves. In this case don't depend on someone else work. (Also unless you can read the numbers and the maker of the Hose you don't know if the Hose is even suitable as oil cooler hose.)

resago2000 · #**232** 11-23-2020, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

Me. I bought the crimper because I have three 1960's cars to fix/retro-fit AC. But when you have a hammer, you find nails. I replaced all AC rubber on my two 300D's, exc. the small "liquid hose" (looked fine). I also used for the oil cooler hoses on 1 car. But, you don't need to buy a $130 crimper since Oeticker stepless ear clamps should seal as tight or better (don't ask, ebay). Use 2 on each end if worried. Advantage, you can so on-the-car (must remove driver's motor bracket to remove oil cooler tubes). You don't need the special Oeticker crimp tool since cheap "nail puller" pliers works (or perhaps Home Depot Pex pipe collar crimp tool). If you do buy an AC crimper, you can later sell it on ebay to recover 90% cost.

BTW, when your high-pressure power steering hose starts leaking, you don't need any special tool, just two box wrenches, at least on 1982-85 300D's. They have Parker field-repairable fittings, which unscrew. Look for my post on re-hosing it. I learned that from the SLS wagon guys.

What was the problem with A/C ferules and crimping?
I have a crimper, ferrules and the tool, and noticed a little wetness at one of the connections and my hoses are old and cracked.

Diesel911 · #**233** 11-24-2020, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by resago2000

What was the problem with A/C ferules and crimping?
I have a crimper, ferrules and the tool, and noticed a little wetness at one of the connections and my hoses are old and cracked.

One of our Members used them but also used AC Hose to make the Oil Cooler Hoses.

I am guessing that collars made for specific sized AC hose are best used with the correct sized AC hose.

Generic collars with any type of Hose? I guess that is an experiment.

BillGrissom · #**234** 11-27-2020, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derburger

I used locally available 3/4" (od?) clamps (Apollo 851-792).

Those PEX clamps look like Oeticker stepless ear clamps once installed. You can buy the later on ebay. The PEX will likely work fine. I'll bet the PEX crimp tool at Home Depot would work on Oeticker clamps. I use nail-puller pliers to clinch them. When I have used them (AC and oil-cooler hose), I use 2 Oeticker clamps at each end, w/ the ears opposite each other.

I also have a MasterCool AC crimper, which I used to remake those oil-cooler lines, using AC "barrier" hose (rated for temperature, pressure, and oil contact). I use the Oeticker clamps when I must install in-place where the MasterCool won't fit or when I don't have the correct crimp jaws, such as for #6 reduced barrier AC hose.

BillGrissom · #**235** 11-27-2020, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by resago2000

What was the problem with A/C ferules and crimping?

No problems. I used 5/8" AC hose and the MasterCool crimper to re-rubber the oil cooler hoses on both of my 300D cars and no leaks since. The oil coolers weren't leaking. I just did preventative measure while I had the L motor mount bracket off for other reasons (weld repair in one case).

I like to use "reduced barrier" AC hose when I can, for less bulk. I did that for the #12 return AC hoses in my 300D's. The #10 std jaws fit the #12 red ferrules almost perfect, though MasterCool doesn't tell you that. They do state that the #6 jaws also work for #8 reduced hose, as I recall. You can buy special reduced-size jaws, but pricey. For hoses, ferrules, and Oeticker clamps, I have spent time sizing them to assure a fit. Oeticker clamps cover a wide range and I think will fit any size hose if you select the right range clamps. You can find AC hose catalogs on the web which give all the dimensions. If I recall, I had to force the #10 ferrules over the #12 reduced hose, but wasn't too hard and tight is better than loose.

The 1984 did have an oil leak earlier in the factory hoses, but only because the p.s. belt chain-sawed a hole in it. Partly due to a sagged motor mount, but mainly because a fan belt broke and apparently tangled in the p.s. belt to flip it over so the "teeth" faced outward and the belt protruded more. Apparently happened just 1 mile from our home when a son was driving it 600 miles home, so lucky. Oil sprayed all under the hood and there was maybe 1 qt left in the pan when he arrived. I cut that hose 1" longer to route it further from that evil p.s. belt, as M-B should have done.

Diesel911 · #**236** 11-28-2020, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

Those PEX clamps look like Oeticker stepless ear clamps once installed. You can buy the later on ebay. The PEX will likely work fine. I'll bet the PEX crimp tool at Home Depot would work on Oeticker clamps. I use nail-puller pliers to clinch them. When I have used them (AC and oil-cooler hose), I use 2 Oeticker clamps at each end, w/ the ears opposite each other.

I also have a MasterCool AC crimper, which I used to remake those oil-cooler lines, using AC "barrier" hose (rated for temperature, pressure, and oil contact). I use the Oeticker clamps when I must install in-place where the MasterCool won't fit or when I don't have the correct crimp jaws, such as for #6 reduced barrier AC hose.

The pex clamps are not in metric sizes so it could be difficult to nail down the size range without having the clamps there. That being said I used the Pex clamps on my Van Oil Cooler Hose.

ROLLGUY · #**237** 11-28-2020, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

One of our Members used them but also used AC Hose to make the Oil Cooler Hoses.

I am guessing that collars made for specific sized AC hose are best used with the correct sized AC hose.

Generic collars with any type of Hose? I guess that is an experiment.

That was me, and it works great.

HughO · #**238** 03-13-2021, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

It would probably be better under all situations if we had low oil pressure warning buzzers. If a person used this alternative design and added a low oil pressure warning buzzer, the system would be even better than just replacing with OE hoses.

Low pressure alarms are a great idea. The best is to use a Murphy gauge which we used in the commercial fishing industry. It is a pressure or temperature gauge which is user adjustable and hooked up to buzzer(s) and/or lights. If you run into an issue in a North Pacific storm you want to know as fast as possible that something is amiss so you might have a chance to arrest the problem. Not cheap of course but affordable.

dennislarock · #**239** 03-31-2021, 08:17 AM

Just blew the engine in my '85TD... oil cooler line blew.
I have another good '84TD engine... I also have a very good '84D.

Now that I am paranoid... who has the best oil cooler lines? I see Ken from MS has them from Monarch... are there any other good choices out there? I do have an excellent hydraulic hose company nearby that could make some up for me.

Opinions Are GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Thank You,

dennis

ROLLGUY · #**240** 03-31-2021, 09:52 AM

By far the easiest and best in my opinion is to have the hose shop crimp on new hose. The hose assemblies are easier to remove/replace with the engine out, so have the hoses rebuilt before installing the new engine. I am fortunate to have a crimper, so I use A/C hose and sleeves. If I am desperate, I rebuild the hoses while they are in the car by grinding off the old sleeves and using heavy duty hose clamps (two per joint) and 5/8 hydraulic hose. Although I have never had a failure doing it this way, it is still best to rebuild the hoses out of the car, and with crimped on sleeves....Rich