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#16
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Sell the car to "old what's he name" who never changes his oil....changing the oil is overrated.
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#17
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if you can get a pipe wrench on it, it should come off no problem. i had the same issue on my wifes 97 E300d. it worked like a charm.
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#18
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Quote:
__________________
Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac? As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself. George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..) 1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won. pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt. |
#19
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I once broke a 18" 1/2 drive breaker bar on an oil pan drianbolt. CAT 3406.
we had it serviced on the road, they must of used an impact to put it on. finally got it off w/ the 1" drive impact!! replaced the plug. these oil sumps are huge, cast iron? so no damage to the pan. the plugs have an o-ring gasket, barely need to be tight. I'd try as pipe wrench if you can, and maybe even some light heat- like a plumbers MAPP torch.
__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven. 1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven. |
#20
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If its an aluminum pan, its common for heat cycling to tighten the drain bolt in, my mother had an Escort that did that to me every time. At this point you can weld a nut to the bolt remains, or get a stud remover tool (looks like 2 knurled wheels in a ring that pinch together as you apply force) big enough to fit the bolt head, use a mapp gas torch to lightly heat the pan in a circular fashion around the bolt, aluminum expands faster and farther than steel, so it will draw away from the bolt threads. You don't need a terrible lot of heat, just enough to feel the hot side of warm to the touch, or if the pan sweats, heat it until the sweat evaporates. You won't get anywhere near heating the oil to a dangerous level. Get yourself a 6 point socket for future oil changes, put a small breaker bar on it and smack it good with a dead blow or brass hammer, that'll pop it loose with very minimal chance of stripping the bolt head again.
Cervan was close to right, leaving the oil in in a situation requiring superheating a part would just create a vat of boiling oil, where drained could allow oxygen at the heat source and ignite. However, there would be no explosion if it did, it's not fuel oil and the crankcase has a pressure breather, it would just create a little carbon deposit is all and suffocate itself out quickly inside the crankcase.
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Chris 64 190D R.I.P. 80 240D W/617 engine -for sale 82 240D -for sale |
#21
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Just hit the pan for a couple of minutes with a torch, and spray some PB blaster on the drain plug, it will come right out. I could have extracted one in the time it took to make this thread.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#22
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Quote:
Yep, use Synlube and you never have to
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99 Gurkha with OM616 IDI turbo 2015 Gurkha with OM616 DI turbo 2014 Rexton W with OM612 VGT |
#23
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As a practical matter, cautiously torching the thing wouldn't be dangerous SHORT TERM... the point about the two gallons of oil dissipating the heat throughout is valid.
However...... I'd be more worried about all the oil, fuel, etc, that invariably leaks all over the side of these things. If I took a torch to anything under my car, literally the car from front to back, and the engine from oil pan up to the hood pad, would go up in a matter of seconds, from all the various forms of petroleum that have leaked, dripped, been poured, been washed, etc... mostly just leaked... all over the place. I'd be afraid to have a torch near the thing, not because of a fire inside the oil pan, but because of one OUTSIDE of it. |
#24
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consider heating the pan to expand the pan metal; then spray a freezing compound on the pan bolt to shrink it. Should come out fairly easy.
http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/Freeze+Spray?openDocument or, http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/PTR-7400/163/FREEZE_SPRAY,_10_OZ_CAN_.html 230/8 |
#25
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Take off and nuke it from orbit.
Its the only way to be sure. |
#26
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Vacuum the oil out
Remove the lower oil pan clean it with degreaser rinse use heat/torch/etc to remove bolt reinstall with new gasket and drain plug fill oil and replace filter... ..... now the engine wont catch fire from the inside out and it will also give you a chance to inspect some of the bottom end... |
#27
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Tight drain plug
A 6" Stilson, (pipe wrench) will do the trick. While pulling on the wrench wack the head with the ball end of a ball pien hammer.
__________________
1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#28
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Thanks Ripley.
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#29
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Quote:
__________________
Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac? As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself. George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..) 1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won. pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt. |
#30
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You need to add one step for 603 owners. Remove half the stuff connected to the engine, unbolt from engine mounts, jack up.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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