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  #16  
Old 11-14-2007, 08:52 PM
guage's Avatar
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Sell the car to "old what's he name" who never changes his oil....changing the oil is overrated.

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  #17  
Old 11-14-2007, 09:01 PM
Tradesman with2MB diesels
 
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if you can get a pipe wrench on it, it should come off no problem. i had the same issue on my wifes 97 E300d. it worked like a charm.
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  #18  
Old 11-14-2007, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
First suck the oil out of the dipstick. Then make sure the oil pan is dry and not covered with oil. Pop a set of vise grips on what is left of the head of the plug, and hit the pan with a torch. It will come right out.

Go to your local dealer and get a new one, put the new one in just tight enough to crush the washer for a good seal. All you should need for this is a 13mm open end wrench.

These plugs have a lot of threads, you just need to tighten them slightly past hand tight.
WRong. do not suck the oil out of the pan. that will definitly cause a fire inside the engine if it were to happen. Keeping the oil in the pan will simply heat the oil instead of providing a thin layer of oil to get extremly hot. and as long as you keep the oil cap off you will not have compression. which means no explosion. Now for the threads. The smaller lower pan is Steel. while the upper pan is cast alluminum. And of course if you have an arc or mig welder you can weld a nut to the end of the bolt and then simply turn it out that way.
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  #19  
Old 11-14-2007, 10:48 PM
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I once broke a 18" 1/2 drive breaker bar on an oil pan drianbolt. CAT 3406.
we had it serviced on the road, they must of used an impact to put it on. finally got it off w/ the 1" drive impact!! replaced the plug. these oil sumps are huge, cast iron? so no damage to the pan.
the plugs have an o-ring gasket, barely need to be tight.

I'd try as pipe wrench if you can, and maybe even some light heat- like a plumbers MAPP torch.
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  #20  
Old 11-14-2007, 11:53 PM
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If its an aluminum pan, its common for heat cycling to tighten the drain bolt in, my mother had an Escort that did that to me every time. At this point you can weld a nut to the bolt remains, or get a stud remover tool (looks like 2 knurled wheels in a ring that pinch together as you apply force) big enough to fit the bolt head, use a mapp gas torch to lightly heat the pan in a circular fashion around the bolt, aluminum expands faster and farther than steel, so it will draw away from the bolt threads. You don't need a terrible lot of heat, just enough to feel the hot side of warm to the touch, or if the pan sweats, heat it until the sweat evaporates. You won't get anywhere near heating the oil to a dangerous level. Get yourself a 6 point socket for future oil changes, put a small breaker bar on it and smack it good with a dead blow or brass hammer, that'll pop it loose with very minimal chance of stripping the bolt head again.

Cervan was close to right, leaving the oil in in a situation requiring superheating a part would just create a vat of boiling oil, where drained could allow oxygen at the heat source and ignite. However, there would be no explosion if it did, it's not fuel oil and the crankcase has a pressure breather, it would just create a little carbon deposit is all and suffocate itself out quickly inside the crankcase.
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  #21  
Old 11-15-2007, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cervan View Post
WRong. do not suck the oil out of the pan. that will definitly cause a fire inside the engine if it were to happen. Keeping the oil in the pan will simply heat the oil instead of providing a thin layer of oil to get extremly hot. and as long as you keep the oil cap off you will not have compression. which means no explosion. Now for the threads. The smaller lower pan is Steel. while the upper pan is cast alluminum. And of course if you have an arc or mig welder you can weld a nut to the end of the bolt and then simply turn it out that way.
The oil will soak up the heat, using the method I describe the pan won't get anywhere near hot enough to ignite the oil.

Just hit the pan for a couple of minutes with a torch, and spray some PB blaster on the drain plug, it will come right out. I could have extracted one in the time it took to make this thread.
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  #22  
Old 11-15-2007, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guage View Post
Sell the car to "old what's he name" who never changes his oil....changing the oil is overrated.

Yep, use Synlube and you never have to
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  #23  
Old 11-15-2007, 12:58 AM
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As a practical matter, cautiously torching the thing wouldn't be dangerous SHORT TERM... the point about the two gallons of oil dissipating the heat throughout is valid.

However...... I'd be more worried about all the oil, fuel, etc, that invariably leaks all over the side of these things. If I took a torch to anything under my car, literally the car from front to back, and the engine from oil pan up to the hood pad, would go up in a matter of seconds, from all the various forms of petroleum that have leaked, dripped, been poured, been washed, etc... mostly just leaked... all over the place. I'd be afraid to have a torch near the thing, not because of a fire inside the oil pan, but because of one OUTSIDE of it.
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  #24  
Old 11-15-2007, 12:43 PM
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consider heating the pan to expand the pan metal; then spray a freezing compound on the pan bolt to shrink it. Should come out fairly easy.

http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/Freeze+Spray?openDocument

or,

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/PTR-7400/163/FREEZE_SPRAY,_10_OZ_CAN_.html

230/8
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  #25  
Old 11-15-2007, 08:24 PM
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Take off and nuke it from orbit.

Its the only way to be sure.
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  #26  
Old 11-15-2007, 08:45 PM
TheDon's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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Vacuum the oil out

Remove the lower oil pan

clean it with degreaser

rinse

use heat/torch/etc to remove bolt

reinstall with new gasket and drain plug

fill oil and replace filter...
.....


now the engine wont catch fire from the inside out and it will also give you a chance to inspect some of the bottom end...
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  #27  
Old 11-15-2007, 08:48 PM
1984 300SD
 
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Tight drain plug

A 6" Stilson, (pipe wrench) will do the trick. While pulling on the wrench wack the head with the ball end of a ball pien hammer.
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  #28  
Old 11-15-2007, 09:02 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrot of Doom View Post
Take off and nuke it from orbit.

Its the only way to be sure.
Thanks Ripley.
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  #29  
Old 11-15-2007, 11:03 PM
Cervan's Avatar
Crazy mechanic.
 
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Location: olympia washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
Vacuum the oil out

Remove the lower oil pan

clean it with degreaser

rinse

use heat/torch/etc to remove bolt

reinstall with new gasket and drain plug

fill oil and replace filter...
.....


now the engine wont catch fire from the inside out and it will also give you a chance to inspect some of the bottom end...
There ya go. thats the way i would do it now that i think about it.
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As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.
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  #30  
Old 11-15-2007, 11:17 PM
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You need to add one step for 603 owners. Remove half the stuff connected to the engine, unbolt from engine mounts, jack up.

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