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  #16  
Old 11-16-2007, 03:21 PM
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That's the thought I'm having while reading this. Having removed stubborn bolts (never had the pleasure with glo plugs on a 606) buy backing out only as much that is wise, then spraying with juice, returning bolt back in, then out again.... repeating procedure. Taking notice to see if I can gain any turns.
Turning the bolt back in, takes the lube with it, so the next set of threads get some.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Do you ever reverse direction with the wrench during the removal?


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Last edited by pmari; 11-16-2007 at 03:28 PM.
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  #17  
Old 11-16-2007, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Do you ever reverse direction with the wrench during the removal?
Yes, I'm pretty sure I did.

I did a little destructive testing this afternoon with the old glowplugs. My old plugs were Beru branded OEM plugs that were last changed in 2000.

If I hold the glowplug in my vice supported on the case of the plug (the area between the threads and the heating element) the head of the glowplug will shear off at 85-90NM. If I grabbed the glowplug solely from the heating element the heating element would break off at 19-20NM.

I destroyed three of the old plugs and the results were remarkably consistent.
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  #18  
Old 11-16-2007, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimFreeh View Post
............. the head of the glowplug will shear off at 85-90NM.
That's nearly double the aforementioned statement where the limit by Beru was declared to be 45 Nm. Good to know...........
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  #19  
Old 11-16-2007, 05:43 PM
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Tim's information is all very interesting and informative. Appreciate your posting that.

Unfortunately although installed at 22nm, they require greater force to remove which is where the problems occur; but, is very valuable to know their failure point.

The Beru plug has a slightly longer length nut to grip as compared to the Bosch plugs. Would be interesting to know the fail point of the Bosch plug too. My OEM Beru's came out fine at ~113K. I replaced them with the Beru's again feeling they might be a tad stronger because of their design.
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  #20  
Old 11-16-2007, 06:55 PM
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That makes sense

>>glowplug will shear off at 85-90NM

Very helpful data - thanks for posting them.

That agrees with my experience of these glow plugs. When I removed them, I steadily increased the torque wrench settings, and while most came out at about 50Nm, 2 of them needed a bit more. I was a bit worried about going beyond Beru's 45Nm figure, but I thought it likely that they were being cautious in their specification.

As I've mentioned a time or two, it's worth plugging the vacuum lines and starting the car with the inlet manifold off. That's how I found the failed inlet valve seats on my engine which otherwise would have remained dormant, but still sapping fuel and performance.
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  #21  
Old 11-16-2007, 08:26 PM
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other GP type

Quote:
Originally Posted by anghrist View Post
II plan on ordering the Beru brand plugs rather than the Bosch. I've run across many accounts online of early failure in the Bosch GPs and I seem to recall someone stating that the Beru were of better quality. Who knows?
have you looked at these GP's?

http://rb-aa.bosch.com/advastaboschaa/Product.jsp?prod_id=26&ccat_id=20&language=en-GB&publication=1
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  #22  
Old 11-16-2007, 08:35 PM
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I think I'll let someone else be Bosch's Guinea Pig on the Duatherm GPs. Time to take some pictures of the proceedure.
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  #23  
Old 11-16-2007, 09:17 PM
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I believe the key to have them not seize again is to tighten them really well to seat them in the head. I believe the recommended torque is not always enough to to do this. I have had a plug seize in a year from not being seated well.
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  #24  
Old 11-17-2007, 05:56 PM
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Weird

Okay folks,

I've got the Intake Manifold off and I lubed the Glow Plugs. I tried a 10mm socket on the plugs and it didn't fit, Hmmm....

I tested continuity on each plug and all but #2 read about 0.5-0.6 Ohms. Only one bad??

12mm fit the Glow Plug heads just fine and I gave each plug about 18NM with the 3/8" torque wrench. As I twist on #2 it comes loose way before I get to 18NM, Hmmm....

I haven't pulled #2 out yet, I just left it where it was and applied more Liquid Wrench. Will give them a try tomorrow as well.
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  #25  
Old 11-18-2007, 04:32 PM
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Woo Hoo!!!

Okay folks,

It didn't take a full week. Today was day number two and all plugs came loose with no problems. #2 is of different vintage then the other five so that may be an indicator or past activity. All were Beru GPs.
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  #26  
Old 11-18-2007, 04:42 PM
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Congratulations!

Seems like this slow measured approach may be worth noting. I still plan on taking mine out when I get the time.
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  #27  
Old 11-18-2007, 06:38 PM
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Congratulations! Looks like you are on your way to a successful change. Remember to use a high temperature rated anti-seize compound on the threads, as a minimum. I have also typically coated the back end of the heating element as well. Good luck, take your time and it will all go back together again. And, next time it won't seem quite so imposing. Jim
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  #28  
Old 11-18-2007, 09:31 PM
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Right, now if you could all tell me how I remove my #2 glow plug, which the previous owner welded to the head with a washer, I'd be delighted
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  #29  
Old 11-28-2007, 10:37 PM
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Woo Hoo!! All plugs are in and the car starts just fine. Used plug reamer and there was all kinds of carbon build up in there. I didn't even have to have the CEL cancelled. After three days of driving the CEL went out by itself. I guess they (MB engineers) were smarter than I thought!

Now on to the '77 240D and it's steering.
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  #30  
Old 11-28-2007, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrot of Doom View Post
Right, now if you could all tell me how I remove my #2 glow plug, which the previous owner welded to the head with a washer, I'd be delighted
First, shoot the PO, or at least get them into a good digging match and give 'em a good wallop. Second, find a good machine shop. Third, I hope you're wealthy.

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