Turbo rebuild - My Experience

[BIGRED]

As stated in another post, I decided to do a number of repairs on the wagon, starting with the engine which has less power (than our SD), smokes on start-up and uses about 2 qts of oil between changes. Valve stem seals, turbo rebuild and a look inside the ALDA is what I have planned.

Because I decided to replace the intake/exhaust gasket, I pulled the manifolds and turbo. I had wiggle in my shaft and it did not spin freely.

I ordered a complete turbo rebuild kit and with that by shipping the parts required, bead blasting and balancing was included $75.00 (plus shipping charges for the balancing).

With available diagrams I found online, the job was not difficult. I did take my time and spread out steps over several days. (an hour here a half hour there)

I soaked all parts and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned them more. I think I spent 5X the time in cleaning as installing the parts.

Shaft is now free of slop and spins freely.

Don

[vstech]

OK, now post your source for parts, and your pics of your rebuild and any tips for us to avoid!
I can't wait.

[BIGRED]

I didn't take pictures because I had the T3 sheet from this seller (click on kit) http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZgQ2dpopQ2dshop

It gives a real good idea for the sequence of parts.

The sheet along with reasonable mechanic logic and you should be fine. If your not sure about your level of abilities, I would take pictures when opening / separating the compressor wheel / side so that various new parts are put back correctly.

Take your time
I had to grind off a couple of bolts on the turbo. Access to them is poor and rounded easily. I would suggest soaking with penetrating oil for a day or so (maybe you can get them out).
Determine the correct kit and parts. (what type of compressor seal you have)
There are 3 marks supplied (after balancing) shaft/turbine wheel, nut and compressor wheel - they need to line up

Here is the link to Ron's Turbo Service on eBay.
http://stores.ebay.com/Rons-Turbo-Service-801-842-9186

[BIGRED]

Back together and back from a run... big difference. I can hear the turbo whistle and feel a big difference. Going to hook up a boost gauge and get a reading on it.

[mcguiver7]

i've rebuilt a few. depending on what you mean by whistle, i hope it's not loud. because they shouldnt be noticable. unbalanced turbo's will whistle on you.

[BIGRED]

Had it balanced...not a loud whistle...just noticeable.

You shouldn't be able to hear the turbo at all with the stock air filter assembly.

[BIGRED]

In 5 years time, our 126 has always had a faint spooling sound, and now that the 123 has the rebuilt turbo in it, the sound and sound level is the same.

I have no idea why or how it is taking place....but it is.

[Diesel911]

When I did this sort of thing where I worked to remove the exhaust housing bolts work carefully. Squirt with penetrating oil, take a good sturdy flat ended punch and hammer and smack the center of the exhaust housing bolt heads several times followed by heating the housing area with a propane before you attempt to remove them.
When the bolts start moving (I often used a combination wrench the box end on the bolt head and tapped the end off the wrench until the bolt loosened) a little; shoot some more penetrating oil into them and move the bolt back the opposite direction to help the oil feed back into the threads. Continue to go in and out with the bolt trying to advance the bolt out a little more each cycle. Tapping the head of the bolt some more can also help as well as more heat and more penetrating oil. This usually loosened 95% of the bolts with out breaking them off.
It is also a good idea to get the correct bottoming tap and chase the threads in the housing after the bolts are out. When you assemble it is a must to use a high temp ant seizure compound on those bolts. In fact if you had a lot of trouble getting the bolts out and the rebuild kit did not come with them it is best to replace the bolts with new ones of the same grade.
I have not had my Mercedes turbo apart yet so I don’t know if it applies to Mercedes turbos but some Garrett (Air Research) turbochargers have exhaust housing bolts the ends of the bolts actually are exposed to the hot exhaust gases and actually causes the threaded bolt ends to mush over; meaning you need even more care to remove them.

Air leaks on the compressor (pressure intake) side can cause whining noises as can metal to metal contact. (My boss used to get a thin piece of paper about 1 inch wide and 6 inches long and have some one accelerate the engine and run the paper around anyplace possible where there could be a leak; if the paper fluttered that was where the leak was.)
If neither of the 2 is going and it is normal sound??? Try an internet search.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by BIGRED

As stated in another post, I decided to do a number of repairs on the wagon, starting with the engine which has less power (than our SD), smokes on start-up and uses about 2 qts of oil between changes. Valve stem seals, turbo rebuild and a look inside the ALDA is what I have planned.

Because I decided to replace the intake/exhaust gasket, I pulled the manifolds and turbo. I had wiggle in my shaft and it did not spin freely.

I ordered a complete turbo rebuild kit and with that by shipping the parts required, bead blasting and balancing was included $75.00 (plus shipping charges for the balancing).

With available diagrams I found online, the job was not difficult. I did take my time and spread out steps over several days. (an hour here a half hour there)

I soaked all parts and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned them more. I think I spent 5X the time in cleaning as installing the parts.

Shaft is now free of slop and spins freely.

Don

The bead blasting and balancing was included along with the $75.00 + shipping? (I did not look at all of the Ebay adds that you posted but I did not see free bead blasting or balancing it the 1 add that I did look at.)
You took the turbo apart and set what parts? When you have time sit down and sort out the details for us. This could be a good deal. Back in the 70s they were charging $7-$13 just do do only the balancing.

[BIGRED]

I did some searching and am comfortable that the sound is normal. I think given the age, some turbos are gummed up and not operating as they should.

YES! it did include the balancing. He sends you the kit, you send him back both wheels, the nut and thrust collar along with the $$ for the shipping (I think it was like $6.00) and he cleans it up, beads it, balances it, marks it and sends it back.

Here is the link to Ron's Turbo Service on eBay.

http://stores.ebay.com/Rons-Turbo-Service-801-842-9186

[Diesel911]

I saved his Ebay address.