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-   -   My diesel is dieseling (doesn't shut off promptly) (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/205746-my-diesel-dieseling-doesnt-shut-off-promptly.html)

kerry 12-02-2007 11:27 AM

You've got a bunch of lines disconnected in that picture. It's hard for me to say for sure but I'd guess you're missing a Y connector that fell down to the ground. Your shifting problems and shut off problems are caused by those disconnected vacuum lines.

RoysVeggy 12-02-2007 11:30 AM

Kerry,

Could you help me locate a picture that shows that Y Connector? Do I have to purchase that or is that something that can be made? Thanks in advance!

ljsense 12-02-2007 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoysVeggy (Post 1689859)
I have been searching for hours but RIGHT after my oil change, my 300D would not turn off so I know its a vacuum line I knocked. I have looked pretty hard under hood and found a few things. I will go out either later tonight or this weekend to buy a Mityvac. I took three photos to possibly get some help on some lines I found underneith the hood.

Also, since I knocked that vacuum line off, that would explain why my transmission shifts harder?

Please refer to link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/roysveggy/

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

Roy, I took a look at your photo, and I am pretty sure what you need is a 4-way connector.

The three lines you're pictured holding:

1. Green with a stripe is your climate control
2. Brown is the shut-off line that goes to your ignition
3. The yellow one with the plastic check valve at the end of it goes to your doors.

All of these lines are connected with a 4-way connector to a vacuum source. I think that's your white line in another photo. It should get vacuum from the brake booster line, that thicker tube that runs from up near the radiator back to the black drum shaped thing.

So, first thing, get a 4-way connector and get all those tubes together. It can be stubborn, and that's probably the most awkward tube connection on the car. Your connector can come out looking a little tortured, bent in various directions to connect the tubes.

On your other photos, it looks like a switchover valve. You might have another vacuum tube loose that you're not seeing. Do you know what the ALDA is? It's on top of the fuel injector, and there's a bango bold attached to a vacuum line. See where that ends.

Another possibility is that the check valve goes to emmissions related stuff and someone already yanked the line.

Hope that helps

ljsense 12-02-2007 12:04 PM

One more thing -- you'll have to buy a 4-way connector. They're here at fastlane, just go up to the buy parts link. They're about $5.

For now, you could try looking on the ground where you changed your oil, but if that connector completely fell off, it's shot and would maybe only be a temporary fix.

RoysVeggy 12-02-2007 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ljsense (Post 1691433)
Roy, I took a look at your photo, and I am pretty sure what you need is a 4-way connector.

The three lines you're pictured holding:

1. Green with a stripe is your climate control
2. Brown is the shut-off line that goes to your ignition
3. The yellow one with the plastic check valve at the end of it goes to your doors.

All of these lines are connected with a 4-way connector to a vacuum source. I think that's your white line in another photo. It should get vacuum from the brake booster line, that thicker tube that runs from up near the radiator back to the black drum shaped thing.

So, first thing, get a 4-way connector and get all those tubes together. It can be stubborn, and that's probably the most awkward tube connection on the car. Your connector can come out looking a little tortured, bent in various directions to connect the tubes.

On your other photos, it looks like a switchover valve. You might have another vacuum tube loose that you're not seeing. Do you know what the ALDA is? It's on top of the fuel injector, and there's a bango bold attached to a vacuum line. See where that ends.

Another possibility is that the check valve goes to emmissions related stuff and someone already yanked the line.

Hope that helps

ljsense,

THIS HELPS SO MUCH, THANK YOU! I am ordering the 4 way along with some other parts from the store. One quick question: The "4th tube" doesn't seem like it would reach the 4 way connector once it would be installed. If it doesn't, do I just buy some extra vacuum hose to extend it? Thanks!

ljsense 12-02-2007 01:19 PM

It should reach, but like I said, it's kind of a difficult connection to make. That's why this four-way connection often comes apart during oil changes. The connector is probably 4 inches or so in each direction.

My advice would be to hook up the three vacuum lines that run to the firewall (doors, climate and shut-off) then try to attach the white line that runs to the brake booster line. Take your time, it's difficult to get the new rubber over the plastic vacuum lines. And you don't want to be yanking on the plastic lines and risk disconnecting them from their rubber fittings on the other side of the firewall.

Theoretically, there'd be no harm in running a longer white plastic vacuum line from the fitting on the brake booster line over to the four-way connection, but it would be odd if you couldn't get the one you already have to work. It makes you wonder how it was connected before, when everything was operational. When I run into scenarios like that, I find it's best to rethink what's going on. It's an indicator that something doesn't quite add up, or the work is slightly off.

Also, since you're dealing with these lines, it wouldn't be a bad time to order a new check valve for the door vacuum line, if you didn't already do that. It's that yellowish thing typically covered in filth at the end of the yellow vacuum line.

Good luck! And remember, if you get frustrated, your misery has company: nature hates a vacuum.

kerry 12-02-2007 01:22 PM

After looking at mine, I think you're missing a 4 way connector. You could cobble together a subsitute out of a couple of T's but it would be better to simply purchase the 4 way or find the one you lost.

oops, I didn't see that someone else already noted it.

RoysVeggy 12-02-2007 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ljsense (Post 1691520)
It should reach, but like I said, it's kind of a difficult connection to make. That's why this four-way connection often comes apart during oil changes. The connector is probably 4 inches or so in each direction.

My advice would be to hook up the three vacuum lines that run to the firewall (doors, climate and shut-off) then try to attach the white line that runs to the brake booster line. Take your time, it's difficult to get the new rubber over the plastic vacuum lines. And you don't want to be yanking on the plastic lines and risk disconnecting them from their rubber fittings on the other side of the firewall.

Theoretically, there'd be no harm in running a longer white plastic vacuum line from the fitting on the brake booster line over to the four-way connection, but it would be odd if you couldn't get the one you already have to work. It makes you wonder how it was connected before, when everything was operational. When I run into scenarios like that, I find it's best to rethink what's going on. It's an indicator that something doesn't quite add up, or the work is slightly off.

Also, since you're dealing with these lines, it wouldn't be a bad time to order a new check valve for the door vacuum line, if you didn't already do that. It's that yellowish thing typically covered in filth at the end of the yellow vacuum line.

Good luck! And remember, if you get frustrated, your misery has company: nature hates a vacuum.

Thanks to both of you guys for your help. I just ordered the parts so hopefully I can get this fixed later this week. Have a nice Sunday!

gsxr 12-02-2007 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry (Post 1691390)
Shut off is on the back of the injection pump attached to the pump between the pump and the oil filter housing.

Clarification... the shutoff pod is on the rear of the IP on the OM61x engines. On the OM60x the shutoff is on top of the pump, forward of the ALDA. It's 10x easier to replace the shutoff if you remove the ALDA first. BT, DT...

:cool:


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