'87 190d turbo 5-speed conversion - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

klaus kallas · #31 06-25-2009, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jetmugg

Speaking of kick-down brackets - I am also converting an '86 300E to a 2.5 Turbo / automatic trans. The car is for a friend, whose wife doesn't drive a stickshift.

I need the "kickdown" bracketry/linkage which bolts to the passenger's side of the cylinder head. (I foolishly tossed out the brackets from 2 previous engines). I need the pivoting portion and the "tie rod" that goes to the throttle linkage. Does anyone have this bracketry which they would be willing to sell to me?

SteveM.

Sure, $15 shipped sound fair? PM me if so.

Klaus

Jetmugg · #32 06-25-2009, 04:02 PM

You have PM.

Steve

2.5-10 · #33 06-25-2009, 04:51 PM

I'll make sure to grab the tranny support (and I know what you mean about the nuts)

I really dont mind being in 4th on the highway when I'm not speeding, I would love to use my car as a road trip mileage machine from time to time, and as hard as I drive I have a 2001 MR2 Spyder to thrash around in when I am in the mood to go fast so this thing can be a bit more laid back for all I care.

are the 2.3 8V clutches good for the extra torque of the 602?

jetmugg, you are only like 8 hours from me, wanna come do it with me if I pay you? lol

I cant wait to pull the autobox out. what a good day that will be.

will my cruise control still work with my manual?

klaus kallas · #34 06-26-2009, 05:33 AM

I've never had any issue with the clutch. They are different, but as long as you keep it all gas or all diesel everything bolts up.

The cruise will work, but don't depress the clutch pedal once it is engaged or

hello 6000 rpms!! Once again, I'm sure it could be wired into the brake circuit to cut it out when the clutch is depressed.

Jetmugg · #35 06-26-2009, 08:24 AM

2.5 - 10:

Where are you located? I love a good road trip and wrench session.

Klaus is correct, if you do it right, your cruise control will still work properly. If you wire it right, it will be 100% as the factory intended.

A couple of finer points - when you pull apart the wiring harness from the auto tranny, I think it's the purple wires that need to be hooked to the clutch switch. Hook these wires up if you don't want to be able to start it in gear. When connected to the clutch switch, you will only be able to start the car with the clutch depressed (an obvious safety feature). If you don't want this safety feature, just twist the wires together and hide them under the carpet.

Also on that harness are 2 wires (maybe black with yellow stripes, my memory is weak) - that will get connected to a small switch on the back of the shifter mechanism. These wires will most likely need to be extended to reach the shifter switch. These are for your reverse lights.

Try to get the electrical connectors for the brake and clutch switch from a manual trans car with cruise control. Again, if I remember correctly, the connectors are different for the manual and automatic cars. The clutch and brake switches are wired in series for the cruise control. That way, if you touch either the clutch or the brakes, the cruise will be turned off.

The hole is already there for the clutch master cylinder supply line. It is normally blocked with a grommet on the auto trans cars. If you didn't know it was there, you would probably never find it. It's tucked way up in the footwell, and behind the brake power booster on the firewall.

SteveM

2.5-10 · #36 06-26-2009, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klaus kallas

I've never had any issue with the clutch. They are different, but as long as you keep it all gas or all diesel everything bolts up.

The cruise will work, but don't depress the clutch pedal once it is engaged or

hello 6000 rpms!! Once again, I'm sure it could be wired into the brake circuit to cut it out when the clutch is depressed.

whew, thought so but good to know

and I have no doubt my OM602 could take that, I would never willingly subject it to revs in excess of 5,000

2.5-10 · #37 06-26-2009, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jetmugg

2.5 - 10:

Where are you located? I love a good road trip and wrench session.
I am in Minneapolis, MN

Klaus is correct, if you do it right, your cruise control will still work properly. If you wire it right, it will be 100% as the factory intended.

good, because with that 2.5T dif this thing is going to get me in trouble on the highway if I dont have cruise

A couple of finer points - when you pull apart the wiring harness from the auto tranny, I think it's the purple wires that need to be hooked to the clutch switch. Hook these wires up if you don't want to be able to start it in gear. When connected to the clutch switch, you will only be able to start the car with the clutch depressed (an obvious safety feature). If you don't want this safety feature, just twist the wires together and hide them under the carpet.

so I tie in both the purple wires to the switch on the clutch pedal? those wires are pre-existing in the A/T harness?

Also on that harness are 2 wires (maybe black with yellow stripes, my memory is weak) - that will get connected to a small switch on the back of the shifter mechanism. These wires will most likely need to be extended to reach the shifter switch. These are for your reverse lights.

if my memmory serves me right, I'll need additional wire to make that run right?

Try to get the electrical connectors for the brake and clutch switch from a manual trans car with cruise control. Again, if I remember correctly, the connectors are different for the manual and automatic cars. The clutch and brake switches are wired in series for the cruise control. That way, if you touch either the clutch or the brakes, the cruise will be turned off.

I'm sure I can have whatever wiring from that 8V I want but I'm not too worried about the clutch on cruise however nice the brake-cruise off is, I presume that stays the same as it is on the A/T

The hole is already there for the clutch master cylinder supply line. It is normally blocked with a grommet on the auto trans cars. If you didn't know it was there, you would probably never find it. It's tucked way up in the footwell, and behind the brake power booster on the firewall.

and thats just for the rod that connects the clutch pedal to the CMS?

SteveM

I replied in bold above cause I was lazy

... and I guess its a 10 hour drive, haha. didnt seem like that long when I went to St. Louis last year

Jetmugg · #38 06-26-2009, 12:01 PM

Minneapolis is a good long way from here.

2.65 rearend - the worst part is pulling away from a stop, especially on an incline. Keep your eyes open for a 2.88 or 3.07, or 3.24 rearend.

Purple wires - yes, the clutch switch has 2 poles - hook 1 wire to each pole.

Reverse light wires - yes, they will need to be extended with more wire.

I would recommend getting everything you can get your hands on from the 8V car in terms of the pedal cluster. (the brake light switch is different).

The clutch master cyl is integral to the pedal cluster. The hole is for the hose which supplies the m/c with fluid from the brake m/c reservoir. There is a nipple on the left rear of the reservoir which must be opened up (cut the end off) to supply fluid to the clutch m/c. Then route the hose from the reservoir through the grommet and to the pedal cluster (clutch m/c).

klaus kallas · #39 06-26-2009, 05:58 PM

Steve,

You got the clutch switch to activate the neutral start wiring? Seem to recall that switch was in the open position when pushed in (i.e. with pedal depressed). Last one I messed with was on a 2.2, but perhaps it changed on later models? More likely my memory is fuzzy!! Next time the underdash panel is off on the 2.5 I'll mess with it some more.....

The brake light switch is different, but both use two wires, and I just unsnap the connector and feed the harness wiring into the female side that goes with the manual pedal switch. Again, there are a few different units out there and that might not work in your case (sounds like a legal disclaimer!!).

What a great feeling when you snip off the little plug on the master cylinder and slide on the hose! Just minutes until the test drive at that point!!!

Good luck!

Klaus

Jetmugg · #40 06-26-2009, 08:22 PM

Klaus: I'm busted. I don't have my clutch safety switch hooked up. (twisted and tucked under the carpet). However, I didn't want to encourage anybody else to take shortcuts with safety the way I did. (Do as I say, not as I do).

I'll have to go down and check how the switch works - I assumed it only made contact when the pedal was down.

Steve.

bigblockchev · #41 07-01-2009, 09:13 PM

Klaus when you wrote "Flywheel is different, but I have never had an issue in the 2 201's and the 1 124 I have done. All 190e 2.3 donors to diesel engines." did you mean that you used the 2.3 gas flywheel or what did you use for a flywheel. I am about to embark on a swap soon & need some clarification.Cheers Dan

klaus kallas · #42 07-02-2009, 05:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigblockchev

Klaus when you wrote "Flywheel is different, but I have never had an issue in the 2 201's and the 1 124 I have done. All 190e 2.3 donors to diesel engines." did you mean that you used the 2.3 gas flywheel or what did you use for a flywheel. I am about to embark on a swap soon & need some clarification.Cheers Dan

Dan,

I used the 2.3 flywheel on the conversions. Think it is a bit lighter than a factory diesel, but haven't had any vibration or drivability issues.

Good luck on your swap!

Klaus

By the way, has nothing to do with this post, but my 300D 2.5 managed 37.5 mpg average (70% hwy, 30% city) over the last tank with the new 5-speed. Love those numbers, but the tall gearing is a bit hard on the engine so the diff. swap is coming soon!

2.5-10 · #43 07-02-2009, 10:28 AM

once I am done jamming my M117 5.5L in my W115 240D, i'll be starting the 5-speed 190Dturbo swap -- hopefully I dont screw it up too badly.

Jtn190d · #44 10-28-2009, 10:20 AM

What tranny are you guys using? im going to start the same project soon hopefully!

klaus kallas · #45 10-28-2009, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jtn190d

What tranny are you guys using? im going to start the same project soon hopefully!

You can use any of the 5-speeds from the 201 or 124 chassis cars. The most common are the 190D 2.2 which has the following ratios:

1st - 4.23
2nd - 2.25
3rd - 1.48
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.84

or the 190E 2.3 which has:

1st - 3.91
2nd - 2.17
3rd - 1.37
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.78

Good luck!
Klaus