What tools can get to tight places?
 

I'd posted some stuff over the last few days, about replacing the shut off valve. You just can't get your hands in that area for all the wires and hoses.

What tools are good for getting into tight places? I have a pretty good stash of tools, 254 piece Craftsman set, and all kinds of other cool tools. I do not have any S-shaped wrenches, so those are on my shopping list. I have some flex end racheting wrenches, but they were too big around on the ends to fit into that tight area. Can't win for losing. Have a wide enough mouth on a crescent wrench, but the handle is too long. Get a short ended handle, but the mouth doesn't open enough. It's maddening. I have crowsfeet wrenches, but you can't use a ratchet wrench in that area. At times, it's nearly illegal to get a job done. I had to cut a pair of channel locks to get them to fit into the tight area to get the alda off.

What tool do you find that's helpful for tight places?

Thanks,

Jeff 1991 300d, 114k

I'm in my mid 40's. What exactly is a tight place anyway......:o:o:o
:D

a 4 year old child.:P

*edit*
^not in reference to jimmy's comment^

I've used some short handled length 27mm to 29mm wrenches for those tight places. Short handled, open end wrenches, are invaluable.

You know, when i saw the thread title i said, doesnt this belong in the "other" department?

Gear wrenches are a must. Magnetic pick up tool to fetch sockets and bolts off the top of the starter. A cuss cup to put quarters in when you cuss. You can save up for the m100 this way, or AMG if thats your fancy!;)

On a 617 shutoff element the Gearhead 5 degree wrenches will not fit. I use a short box wrench for the 2 drivers side bolts and a 1/4 drive Sears Chraftsman socket set for the 2 passenger side bolts. Then I pull the shutoff element out along the block to the rear of the engine and remove it around the back of the oil filter housing. The U shape and S shape wrenches are usefull at times. But not on the shutoff element.

Also you must unbolt the tranny vacuum control unit on the top of the injector pump. Just the two top bolts. Not the IP linkage.

On the 616 engine I use just the 1/4 drive socket set. It fits quite easily.

Dave

PS you must also disconnect some of the vacuum line that are in the way. I highly recommend disconnecting the vacuum pump to booster line. It's easy to break the 2 nipple coming off the line and then its very expensive to replace. Removing it is easier. Also before disconnecting any of the components I recommend taking a digital picture of the lines and setup for easy reassemble

This is very good advice. You think you are being careful, then you forget for a second while focusing on something else, then "snap".....:eek::eek:
Of course, ask me how I know. :o

Quote JimmyL:
"This is very good advice. You think you are being careful, then you forget for a second while focusing on something else, then "snap"....."

Yep, have to get out the epoxy almost every time I change the oil... and I do try to be careful... Anyone make a metal version of the vacuum valve/manifold thingy?

Oh, and I like a set of thin walled sockets and long extentions for tight spaces, just don't try to put a lot of torque on them....

Experiance, and small hands.:D If you have big hands like me, thats what a girlfriend/little kids come in handy for.:D The shut of valve is tough, I did mine with the manifold off so it wasn't.:D

Was helping a female friend of my son's when I snapped her vacuum pump to manifold fitting. She was on her way back to college. Took the hose off my 300TD and got her on her way. So I had to buy my self a new hose.

They get brittle as they get old and so snap easily.

Dave